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Discussion Starter #1
Gents,
I have given it my best shot, but the darn thing just spins. Replacing clutch plates after standard auto oil causes slipping. Read manual several times to understand the process, but I cannot get passed the removal of the primary clutch nut removal

Turning the nut, the starter pull coil removed, crow bar wedged to keep it from spinning, and it just backs out the bolt on the coil side. I cannot get the primary clutch nut to do ANYTHING. I am perplexed and the clymer manual just says "remove primary clutch nut".

Is it right hand or left hand threaded? Is there a trick I don't know about? HELP!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Found one issue. After thinking about what I typed, I found the key destroyed on the side of the pull start. So, add one more item to the parts list. But I am still perplexed as to how to remove the primary housing nut. Just don't understand why it would be that difficult.
 

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Did you try an impact wrench. i belive thats the best way to get things of that nature free. if its been on there a while it could be stuck on hard and might need an impact wrench to free it.
 

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Right hand thread, so lefty loosey!

If you have a jug of automatic transmission fluid, and some acetone (wife's fingernail polish remover), take a Q-tip and dip it in the ATF and dab that on the nut by the threads. Then take the other end of the Q-tip and dip it in the acetone and dab that on the same place. Take a break and go enjoy the rest of the day.

Come back tomorrow and use a box end wrench, give the wrench a sharp whack so it is turning left, and the nut will practically drop in your lap.

If that does not do the trick I will be surprised.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK guys, I have done the suggested tips (acetone, ATF), replaced the key on the pull start side and the same thing happened. The key sheered in two pieces and the crank spins freely, so I cannot get the primary clutch nut to BUDGE! I am not sure what to do at this point as I don't want to screw up the nut (since it's not very thick to begin with) and am afraid I will round off the edges. This is just nuts and what started out to be a simple job, has turned into a nightmare. I am open to suggestions. HELP!
 

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Take a look at the parts diagram on Kawasaki.com and let me know exactly which year and clutch nut you are having problems with. Those diagrams are under the Owner Info tab.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
KLF220, Part number 92015-1512, Nut 18mm which holds part number 13216-1120, (Gear-Comp, clutch) on the crank. I am a little confused here as my nut is 24mm and not 18mm. On the opposite drive end of the crankshaft, the 49080-1051 (starting pulley) just behind the recoil starter. The starting pulley is bolted, 92002-1296 (bolt:flanged, 10x40), to the crank and below the bolt is a small key 92038-1051 (key, sunk) between the pulley and crank. That is the key that keeps shearing in two parts when I try to loosen the 24mm nut on the primary clutch hub. According to the Clymer I have, it says the bolt is to have 61lbs of torque?? Me thinks someone used a wee bit much when putting it on! What are your thoughts and/or suggestions?
 

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92015-1512 shows up as the centrifugal clutch nut in my diagrams. That is 18 mm on the threads, and 24 mm on the flats where a hex socket is used to remove the nut.

If that is the nut you want to remove, do not hold the opposite end of the crankshaft when trying to remove it as that will break the microwelds where the crankshaft is pressed together internally.

Your Clymer manual should show a tool that holds the clutch hub from the same side as the nut. Use something along that line and lock the assembly from the face of the weight assembly behind that nut.

What I would suspect is that someone has used a nutlocker like red LocTite on that nut. Take a small propane torch, one of the hobby sized deals that fit in one hand and is small enough to solder wire, and heat that nut until you know it is around 400 degrees F. That will release the adhesive. Then it should back right out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will try as you suggested. The Clymer I have does not show the tool to hold the clutch, so I have no idea what it looks like nor do I want to purchase a tool like that for a one time job! I had thought of heating up the nut, but now that you have posted that, I will try. I hope to advise on the completed job by the weekend! Simple jobs often are the most complicated to complete!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Success! Thanks for all who contributed to the post. I was able to get the nuts off, inspect everything, change clutches, reassemble and test. It worked like a champ. NOW, I have to rebuild the carb!

Thanks again.

Bryan
 

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Glad to see it worked.

Just a bit of advice on the carburetor. Do not use an air compressor to blow out the passages! Use canned air after you do a thorough disassembly and cleaning with a non-foaming carburetor cleaner. Count your pilot jet turns from where it is until it is lightly bottomed (NOT TIGHT), before you remove it - then write that number down so you do not forget.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
RCW, just curious to understand the why of not using my air compressor. I will heed the advise but want to understand the whys!
 

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Passage plugs that are required to close passages made during the machining process tend to blow out and get lost with the use of high pressure air. That ruins the carburetor.

Two out of every three carburetors that are brought in by folks that attempted to clean them with compressed air no longer work because the plugs are missing. A can of camera or keyboard air is inexpensive and avoids such damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
RCW, I finally got around to tearing into the carb. I appreciate your comments on the canned air (which I used) and the advise on counting the number of turns. I completely disassembled the carb, let it soak for the better part of the day, cleaned, all the gunk out of it, and reassembled the unit. I had noted the turns and made the same adjustments when I re-assembled the carb. Installed, turned on the gas, hit the start button, and that baby purrs! Great throttle response (no popping, hacking, coughing). She runs great, choke works well.

Thanks for your valuable input!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
SO, took the Bayou to the camp this weekend and gave her a good workout going all over the place. Spent the better part of Saturday morning in the woods with the guys. The longer the day, the worse it started to run. Throttle response went to crap, the ATV started to spit and hesitate again and if I stopped and tried to restart, it was very sluggish in starting. Seems like it was "hot" and not starting well. I am frustrated with the throttle/carb again as it seems I am starting down the path again of it not wanting to run. I also noted a strong gas smell a few times. I am wondering if I am having air pass around the intake. Maybe not tight enough where the carb connects to the intake? Any suggestions on where to start?

First start, runs good. Choke works well and throttle response is great. Longer you ride, worse it gets. Things that make you go hummmm.....
Ideas?
 

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I hear you brother! Mine is a simple clutch cable replacement. Now running on three weeks. I do not have spring tention on the clutch arm after the cable broke and I do not have a diagram to show me if I need to get into the cover to regain that. I might have to do "exploritory surgury". I would like any sugestions on books sites etc to simplify this issue please. Looking forward to it.
 

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BN,
Have you pulled and cleaned the tank, petcock and lines? Put in an inline filter? Just a thought. Spitting gas might be some grung having got to the float valve. It sounds to me like the exciter is starting to go as the bike warms up and then begins to act up. I'm not sure but seems I remember RCW saying something along those lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, I am not sure what it might be, and was hoping for maybe something simple. I did notice air bubbles in the fuel line, so I was going to see if I was getting air in the fuel. I am just not sure what's going on. It's frustrating I can tell you that. When you are in the woods at a hunting camp, the one thing you need is a reliable 4 wheeler when you are miles away from the camp.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
SO what exactly is the exciter coil? I cannot find that in the parts list on Kawasaki.com. Is that the starter coil?
 
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