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Discussion Starter #1
hey yall,
sorry about the similar post as last time, but i didnt want to dig anything up agian. :wink:

ive been riding and messing with the idle adjustment screw. i can either get it to run fast, or run at a normal speed and stall out eventually.

the fast pace is also sparadic, it will idle fast then putter down then almost die, but it will catch itself and go back up. this way is annoying because it will roll away from you and it wont slow down when driving (the rpms stay high)

the slow pace sounds good, but it will die down if you dont hit the throttle to keep the rpms up. when you crank it, you have to immediatly hit the throttle and go. i was doing some slow, technical offroading and the **** thing kept stalling. stangley enough, IF I KEEP THE CHOKE ON ABOUT 1/4 WAY, IT WILL USUALLY NOT STALL. wtf? :confused:

i have herd about bad idle jets. could this be it?
it also backfires a good bit. but i dont remember at what setting it did...

also, in 5th gear, held wide open, it pudders off the highest rpm. rev limiter or valve clearence issues?

sorry for the long post, and thank you for your time and wisdom
 

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maybe youre running a bit rich? have you ever put different jets in it? my chinese bike would do the same thing before I backed off on the richness. but yes, maybe your valve clearances are off a hair. usually when it backfires, it means your main jet is too rich, if it doesnt backfire at 1/4 throttle and runs smoothly in there, it could be the main jet is too rich. im not 100% sure though
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok guys, i went and did what cucco said with the carb cleaner and piddled with the idle once more. and i got it! it idles good now and dont die out when in gear and stopped. its nice. however, it isnt perfect. it still hesitates when the throttle is opened up instantly in neutral (the problem isnt as bad when in gear bc the rpms are already higher). i found the sweet spot at 5.75 turns out from snug.

heres the different symptoms at diffrent idle speeds. mabey yall can see a pattern and help me with the hesitation problem...

2.5 turns out- idle speed very high then putters down (always above normal idle) when opened up, it takes while to come back down. nasty backfire back through carb
3.5 out- same as 2.5 out, mabey a little lower rpms
4.5 out- less backfire back through carb, now some out of exhaust. lower idle, idle still fluctuates and almost dies b/c falls so low
5.5 out- sounds good :) when opened wide open instantly, died out. however, revs up good when throttle applied slower
6 out- same as 5.5, mabey a little lower idle

5.75- idle speed is good, and it doesnt die out when opened up instantly8) . it just hesitates and almost dies down :confused:

basicly all the settings backfire when coming off throttle, but the 5.5-6 ones do it much less

thanks guys!
 

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The carb is designed so that the "proper" setting is about 2 turns out. If it's anything more, you need to remove the carburetor and clean it thoroughly. Remove all plastic and rubber and spray carb cleaner front to back through all of the small passages inside the carb body. Reinstall and then try adjusting the pilot needle.

SOMETIMES the carb body gets damaged (my CVK32 on my bayou is) and no amount of cleaning will ever return the pilot needle to 2 turns out from a light seat. My bayou is happy about 3 3/4 turns out but that is an extremely rare case. Most quads should be happy about 2 turns out.
 

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ok guys, i went and did what cucco said with the carb cleaner and piddled with the idle once more. and i got it! it idles good now and dont die out when in gear and stopped. its nice. however, it isnt perfect. it still hesitates when the throttle is opened up instantly in neutral (the problem isnt as bad when in gear bc the rpms are already higher). i found the sweet spot at 5.75 turns out from snug.

heres the different symptoms at diffrent idle speeds. mabey yall can see a pattern and help me with the hesitation problem...

2.5 turns out- idle speed very high then putters down (always above normal idle) when opened up, it takes while to come back down. nasty backfire back through carb
3.5 out- same as 2.5 out, mabey a little lower rpms
4.5 out- less backfire back through carb, now some out of exhaust. lower idle, idle still fluctuates and almost dies b/c falls so low
5.5 out- sounds good :) when opened wide open instantly, died out. however, revs up good when throttle applied slower
6 out- same as 5.5, mabey a little lower idle

5.75- idle speed is good, and it doesnt die out when opened up instantly8) . it just hesitates and almost dies down :confused:

basicly all the settings backfire when coming off throttle, but the 5.5-6 ones do it much less

thanks guys!
what you say is quite typical if it is an existing uncontrolled intake of air (from the manifolds between the cylinder head and carbs).
I had this problem.
If the bike works well at 5 laps in outside air screw ..... CERTAIN.!!!

you try to apply a paste sealant on intake manifold, and the problem magically disappears.... :biggrin:

air mix screw 1.5 turns! :wink:

sorry for my english, i'm italian.

Trust me and do this test!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
am i hurting anything this way? the carb is fairly clean im pretty sure. i cleaned it with buddy and im running seafoam through the gas just in case. i just replaced the boot between the air box and carb, as well as the manifold between the carb and head (including o rings)
 

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You can do damage running like that. It won't necessarily be immediately apparent either.

Lean running conditions burn hotter than proper A/F mixutres. It can lead to damaged rings, burnt piston, burnt valves, and damaged cylinder. The real problem is, as Cucco pointed out, it's "out of control" which could mean that while it seems to be running properly, it's actually swinging wildly (and dangerously) from rich to lean conditions. Going from fouling everything up to nearly burning components.
 

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am i hurting anything this way? the carb is fairly clean im pretty sure. i cleaned it with buddy and im running seafoam through the gas just in case. i just replaced the boot between the air box and carb, as well as the manifold between the carb and head (including o rings)
you changed the sleeves of aspiration and nothing has changed?
strange......

at times these seem perfect, but the air leak is real.

(sometimes under the collars..) :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok i will try to tighten everything down some more...

i really dont see how air could be getting in, especially enough to throw it off that much

another thing, when throttle is applied at idle it revs up sooooooo high but the idle sounds good. it doesnt even sound like and engine. on other quads u can almost hear the individual thumps of the cylander, but on this one its rediclous. it vibrates the whole thing a BUNCH. could this be because its getting a TON and air bc of a leak and now a TON of fual bc of me?

is there away to post vidoes? i could do that so yall could hear it
 

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i have a bayou 220 early 90s model will not idel leaks oil out of top of cylinder and is hesitant when throttle is first applied but will fly when it picks up, but has great compression thats the weird thing, any help out there
 

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daly, we haven't given up on you, just nothing to update cucco is convinced you have a bad intake boot and I still think that the pilot circuit is clogged. :) You can add video to another site such as youtube or photobucket and then post the link code here. I don't think that this site hosts video upload.

Josh, there is a vent hole (kind of like a PCV system on a car) built into the top of the cylinder on the front left corner of the head I believe. If you have excessive blowby or too much oil in the quad you can have oil mist or squirt out of that hole. Also, your problem with hesitation sounds like a dirty pilot circuit in the carburetor as well. The passages inside of the carburetor body are like .060 tubes that make several turns inside the body itself.

I went so far to make sure that mine were clean that I removed the throttle butterfly so that I could get a better shot into the holes with the tube from my carb cleaner can. I was VERY meticulous about the cleaning of my carb to make sure that everything was as it should be. As I said, mine is happy at about 3 3/4 turns out on the pilot needle but I think the problem is previous damage to the hole entering the throat behind the butterfly.
 

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have you checked the cam lube on the intake side for wear,and hows the valve lash,the intake valve wears and pulls up into the valve seat causein vavles lash to get tighter than spec and thus puts to much stress on the cam lube cause it to loose its hard faceing and start wearing the lube down and wearing the rocker also.

thats not right to have 5 turns out so you may want to look in other places like spark and compression intake cam and valves and lash if you can not find a vacuum leak in the intake sysytem
 

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josh...... where exactly is the oil come from the rocker covers or inbeteewn the head and the cylinder,if its up high like the rocker cover make sure there on the right way and the oring gaskets are ok or just repalce em,if its beteewn the head and jug replace the head gasket and the orings that go with it i think there are 4 of em where the head bolts go through jug oil passes through there.

as for the sag on throotle is the carb clean and set right{air flow screw} and what kinda air filter do you have and exhaust are they stock or after market.do you have a inline fuel filter and what kinda fuel are you useing
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I still think that the pilot circuit is clogged. :) You can add video to another site such as youtube or photobucket and then post the link code here. I don't think that this site hosts video upload.
prairie,
would the pilot circut fix only entail dissambling and cleaning the carb again, just more detailed at a certain jet?
 

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well have not really started a tear down but i have tore that carb down three times idk if i have needle to deep are aint set right but the oil comes out under head and has stock exaust and home made air filter just for now didnt want to buy one yet and i use 89 octane
 

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Yes, the small tube that comes down out of the carburetor body on the engine side has the pilot jet down inside of it. The needle tip sticks up inside of the carburetor throat behind the slide and the passages that can become clogged run between the pilot jet inside the float bowl and the pilot needle itself.

Be careful, there is a small o-ring and washer down inside of the pilot needle hole. Make sure you remove them before spraying that area down with carburetor cleaner. Once the o-ring and washer are out, make sure that the hole going into the carburetor body is clear and the passage going back into the body is clear back to the jet. Also, inspect the threads of the pilot needle hole to make sure that the "bottom" that you are feeling actually is the bottom and not a boogered thread. I have had that be the case. The tip of the pilot needle wasn't even entering the carburetor body but the needle was "bottoming" on a bad thread. It turned out the needle was about 6 turns out without me knowing it and the engine was running erratic.
 

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well i just ordered a complete gasket kit that comes with o rings, pulled motor and started tearing down there was no head gasket left, also valve cover gaskets where dryed up and had to chizle them off but i cant not figure out how to get timing chain top end gear off?? any help
 
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