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Discussion Starter #1
The woodruff key on the crankshaft on the starter side of the bike,that keeps the rotor lined up keeps shearing off!! I've replaced it three times already!! When I put the engine cover on and go to tighten the bolt that goes thru the manual start gear,into the end of the crank, it doesn't seem to tighten the rotor on to the tapered end of the crank. The bike will start and run fine but after about three or four electric starts the key shears and the starter just spins the rotor freely. It seem to be dependent only on the key to handle all the torque and stress.PLEASE if anyone can help or have had this same problem let me know what to do. Thanks in advance.
 

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Are you cleaning the crank off when you pull it apart with solvent like it says in the manual?

Does your particular application call for a washer between the pull starter pulley and the alternator rotor? Maybe you need a shim between the two to space your rotor down onto the taper. Have you checked to make sure that the threads on the rotor bolt are all clear and that there is no trash down inside the threaded hole? Anything holding that bolt out would cause your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you cleaning the crank off when you pull it apart with solvent like it says in the manual?

Does your particular application call for a washer between the pull starter pulley and the alternator rotor? Maybe you need a shim between the two to space your rotor down onto the taper. Have you checked to make sure that the threads on the rotor bolt are all clear and that there is no trash down inside the threaded hole? Anything holding that bolt out would cause your problem.
.Thanks for your response , Th e Haynes manual that I have doesn't go into any details about this problem. The starter clutch goes on ,then the rotor,then the rotor bearing, THEN the engine case with the stator goes on. The pull start pulley goes on next and the bolt goes thru that into the end of the crank . It seems like the bolt just cranks down the starter pulley on to the engine case. I just don't get how tightening down that bolt pulls the rotor tightly onto the crank, because all the pressure is going onto the engine case. Thanks
 

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Well, the way it's supposed to work is; the bolt tightens down on the outside of the starter pulley. The back of the starter pulley tightens up against the inner race of the bearing. The inner race of the bearing tightens up against the rotor. The rotor is then tightened up against the taper of the crankshaft. If this doesn't sound like the yours is doing, perhaps you have something out of order.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, the way it's supposed to work is; the bolt tightens down on the outside of the starter pulley. The back of the starter pulley tightens up against the inner race of the bearing. The inner race of the bearing tightens up against the rotor. The rotor is then tightened up against the taper of the crankshaft. If this doesn't sound like the yours is doing, perhaps you have something out of order.
That makes sense and sounds right. Perhaps I'm not applying enough torque on the bolt. Do you know what the proper torque is?? Should I use an impact driver on it ?? Perhaps a chain wrench holding the starter pulley while tightening the bolt?? Thanks very much for the reply, I think I'll try it one more time, Cleaning the crank and inside the stator and applying more torque. Thanks again!!
 

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Well, there's another test you can perform to see if you're doing it right also. Pop the bearing out of the stator cover. Install the components without a key or the stator cover and see if the alternator is truly being left loose or if more torque pulls it up on there.

You'd definitely be better off using an impact gun so the impact actually pushes the rotor up onto the taper but if you don't have an impact gun, you'd better stay away from chain wrenches and the like. There shouldn't be any need in tightening beyond what you can achieve with a flat blade screwdriver in the starter pulley. If that's not enough torque to tighten the rotor down, there's something else wrong and you need to find that before you go messing anything else up.
 

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if you cant find out the torqe spec for said bolt ,better call a dealer and get it,im sure you do not want to try and pull out a broken bolt due to over tighting or damageing any thing.

and for the key shearing off are you usein the correct type key,there are half moon types and boxed.make sure your usen the correct style/-corey-
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, there's another test you can perform to see if you're doing it right also. Pop the bearing out of the stator cover. Install the components without a key or the stator cover and see if the alternator is truly being left loose or if more torque pulls it up on there.

You'd definitely be better off using an impact gun so the impact actually pushes the rotor up onto the taper but if you don't have an impact gun, you'd better stay away from chain wrenches and the like. There shouldn't be any need in tightening beyond what you can achieve with a flat blade screwdriver in the starter pulley. If that's not enough torque to tighten the rotor down, there's something else wrong and you need to find that before you go messing anything else up.
I just tried the test you suggested and sure enough it worked!! It snugged up nicely without the key and engine cover, and I do believe it will work properly when completely assembled and the proper torque applied. Once I get another key I will put it to the test. Thank You very much for your help,it really really helped. I was about to give up and take it to a" real" mechanic. Now I can save my pride and move on. Best Regards, Tom
 

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I just tried the test you suggested and sure enough it worked!! It snugged up nicely without the key and engine cover, and I do believe it will work properly when completely assembled and the proper torque applied. Once I get another key I will put it to the test. Thank You very much for your help,it really really helped. I was about to give up and take it to a" real" mechanic. Now I can save my pride and move on. Best Regards, Tom
You've been so helpfull , I was hoping you could answer one more question. When I removed the starter sprocket , the forward cam chain slipper was forward of the chain. The chain couldn't have been riding on the length of it. Should the bottom end of the slipper insert into the U shaped part of the casing that would line it up with the chain?? This Haynes manual stinks, it doesn't show or wromite about any of this?? Thanks Again, T
 

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Alright, if the rotor tightened up on the shaft without the cover in place, something is holding the assembly apart with the cover on. Look at the order you have everything stacked in without the cover on and see if something is out of order, i.e. your outer bearing is out of place, Once you get ready to reinstall the assembly with the cover in place, make sure nothing is binding back there as you install everything. Once everything's on, you should be good to go.

Ok, I think I'm on the same page with you here. There are two timing chain guides. One in the front and one in the back, The one in the back is the tensioning guide with the spring loaded gizmo. The one in the front is the stationary guide. The bottom of the stationary guide has a little hook that snaps into the block to hold it in place and the top is trapped between the head and cylinder to hold it in place. Are you saying that the hook piece was not in the little groove? It should be even if it wasn't... The problem is, you may have to remove your chain tensioner in order to get enough slack in the chain to put that little hook piece into the groove. If that's the case, you're talking about a headache and a potential can of worms. If you can simply pop the hook over into the groove, by all means, do it.
 
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