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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys
i let my 03 bayou 250 sit for about a week (spring break) and when i got home the battery was dead. it only clicked when i hit the starter. not it makes no noise at all. i put it onthe charge and i could hear a gurgling in the battery, so i checked the water and charged it. no better. i can get a very dim light out of the neutral light and headlight. thats it.

does that sound like a sterotypical dead battery or somthing else?
 

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Sounds like a shorted cell. Buy a new battery before you try and run it again before something else much more expensive gets messed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok i got the new battery, put the acid in and followed all the directions, charger says it charged. but i slappeded it in, and nothing.

whats going onnn?
 

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Right, if you've no lights then your battery isn't connected properly i think. Check both of the connections to the battery and the earth to the bike.
Come back once you've checked that? I'm not totally familiar with you bike but usually there is a main fuse - it will be near the battery - check that also
 

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I have an old manual here...on the 250 model before yours ('97), the main fuse is in the starter relay unit which is under the seat - it's a 20 amp spade fuse.
Maybe they haven't changed it?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
good call man haha it was blown to hell. i suppose the shorted battery cell can be to blame for that. either way, easy fix. thanks!
 

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No worries - happy that you got going again.
PS Well worth having a couple of spares of those fuses taped to your bike or in a tool kit somewhere, just in case it happens again but your miles from anywhere!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yeah true. pull starting aint that hard haha its what ive done for a month now and i ride almost every day. but im a 18 year old and thats what we do. stupid stuff hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok i threw the new fuse in, got the lights to work. when i pushed the start button, it clicks once when depressed, and once when released. this is the same **** clicking as before. i found its in the little silver cylander where the fuse pluggs in. i can feel somthing moving when it clicks. is there a way to fix it with out replasing it? its a $72 part.

part # 27010-1243
 

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That part that's clicking is the starter solenoid. The problem could be one of four things and a little diagnostic work will be needed to determine which one.

#1 the solenoid isn't passing current through it. The contacts inside the solenoid eventually burn out and the solenoid has to be replaced. Voltage coming in one side of the solenoid and (when the starter button is pressed) voltage not coming out of the otherside is a dead giveaway.

#2 One of the two wires supplying power to the solenoid and then power to the starter is messed up. Rust and other corrosion can get inside the lugs that are crimped on the end of the wire and cause a short. Or you could have a broken wire still inside the plastic sheath. Tracing wires and testing for voltage at each point is the only way to diagnose.

#3 The starter is bad. Carbon brushes inside the starter can wear out causing the starter to receive power, but not start. You can diagnose by hooking up an external battery and jumper cables to the starter bypasssing all of the other stuff on the starter circuit. Ground to the starter case and positive to the lug coming out of the side of the starter case being careful not to touch the positive to the case itself. If the starter turns the motor over, the starter is good.

#4 The starter has a bad ground. The ground for the starter motor is through the mounting bolts and then through a ground lug bolted to the side of the engine bak towards the transmission usually on the left side of the case just above and forward of the output shaft. If you have a break (corrosion) at any of these points, it's just like having the positive wire unplugged. Find someone with a volt meter (or at the least a test light) and trace down your starter circuit before you start throwing money at the problem.

It'll definitely save you money and probably time as well!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
alright i did #1 and it read voltage across the contacts when i was NOT touching the start button. but when i PRESSED the button, no voltage.

this makes no sense to me. i would have thought it would be the other way around
 

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Alright electrical 101. The reason you had voltage across the contacts when you weren't pressing is because you were measuring potential across the circuit (or how much voltage wanted to bridge the gap across the solenoid) As soon as you press the starter button you remove the potential by connecting the two sides of the solenoid together (internally).

Another way to test a circuit on a 12 v direct current system (and the way I generally try) is to reference everything to the common. In the case of an automotive style 12 DC system, we call it the ground or chassis ground. It's pretty much any metal on the frame or engine case.

The way you'd reference your measurements to ground is by testing for voltage between the solenoid post with the wire connected to the battery and the frame. For obvious reasons, it should have voltage all the time. The next test is to test the opposite post while not touching the starter button. For obvious reasons, it should not have voltage. Then test that same post while hitting the starter button and you should see battery voltage when referenced to ground.

I can already tell you if you saw your voltage drop off when you were connected to each side of the solenoid and hit the starter button, your solenoid is fine because that means the potential across the terminals was lost. You still need to diagnose the system as I just described referenced to ground just to make sure that everything else is still working like it's supposed to be.
 

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Hey guys - just got back to the thread - sorry been away! So all is not well. Let's see if between us we can sort this. 99 is right, he knows his stuff. But I just wanted to check that we're all talking about the same thing. When you said you can hear the click again, and that it was near the fuse, are we sure that we are talking about the solenoid. I dont know this bike but could that be the starter relay ??? I only have the 250 '97 manual to refer to tho!

In any case it's supposed to click - a relay is just a switch, the clicking noise is the switch.

If I'm right (would be a first!) then we need to be looking at the starting system which is made up from a few different bits and pieces any of which will prevent your bike from starting:

1. Ign barrel switch
2. Kill switch on handle bars
3. Starter button
4. Neutral switch
5. Main fuse

All of these things need to be working before the starter motor will turn the engine.

Can you pls confirm? Ta!
 

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The 5 pieces you listed are all of the components of the signal lead going to the solenoid. Then you have all of the gobbilygook having to do with the high amperage side of the solenoid and starter parts.

The dead giveaway that the rest of the signal lead is working as it's supposed to is that voltage passes through all of the stuff you listed on it's way to the "trip" leg of the solenoid where it energizes the magnetic field closing the switch. The click he's hearing is the magnetic field being energized and the switch being closed. Now since it's still not starting, it's time to check all of the other gobbilygook.

Also the separate starter relay is to make use of the neutral switch which closes when it's "on" and connects to ground. It doesn't really make a click loud enough to be heard unless you're right beside it or holding onto it and it should be clicking the same time as the solenoid.

So the revised list is as follows:

Signal side:
#1 main fuse
#2 handlebar switch
#3 starter button
#4 starter relay
#5 neutral switch
#6 solenoid

High amperage side:
#1 battery
#2 high power wire from battery to solenoid
#3 solenoid
#4 high power wire going from solenoid to starter
#5 starter
#6 ground between starter case
#7 grounding cable on engine case and negative lead of the battery
 
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