Bike Oil vs Car Oil...

13775 Views 55 Replies 26 Participants Last post by keeber, Aug 6, 2008

Brett

Discussion Starter · Nov 9, 2004

Yeah, yeah, I KNOW what the issues are – the wet clutch, the transmission etc etc – but does anybody have experience with extended use of (decent) car oil in their bike? The situation here is that a decent “Bike Oil” is three or more times the price of a decent car oil. (I like Mobil products because of the excellent detergent properties.) If I compare Mobil 4T Semi-Synth 4 stroke Motorcycle Oil with Mobil Super S Semi-Synth Oil. The Super S is API-SJ (on a par with Mobil 1 !) while 4T is SF or SG (can't remember which). Those are OLD specs that you might only see on cheap no-name car oils! WTF?! I like to change the oil regularly, making the price of the bike oil a big issue…
Let me know what your opinion or experience is (and please say if it is an opinion or experience – thanx)

:wink:

41 - 56 of 56 Posts

Alizard

· #41 · Dec 20, 2007

ikarus1 said:
They are called "snake oil". Never use anything you can buy at a store in your oil. The oil companies are doing a good job and generally don't need any help by backyard chemists (AKA Lucas Oil "products"...like cheese "product" it's not real oil)

Dude, not everything sold aftermarket is snake oil. The additives are well known, not patented, and the oil manufacturers do put them in their oil... but they also wear out over time, especially when the oil gets beat up. You can buy them and add them to the oil which probably is still good after 1500 miles.

Some junk is snake oil (like Slick 50) some isn't.

As a wise person said in this thread, it's a good idea to use LESS oil and if you can recharge the viscosity enhancers and other additives and then run the oil another couple of thousand miles.... you use less oil in the end.

ikarus1

· #42 · Dec 20, 2007

bountyhunter said:
Dude, not everything sold aftermarket is snake oil. The additives are well known, not patented, and the oil manufacturers do put them in their oil... but they also wear out over time, especially when the oil gets beat up. You can buy them and add them to the oil which probably is still good after 1500 miles.

You are right. But most anything sold at Wal-Mart or Auto-bo-zone is snake oil. They push stuff like Slick 50, Lucas, and Z-max which all have lawsuits filed against them for unscrupulous marketing.

Hence I said "sold in a store". If you want to find good additives use the internet.
I try to find oils with a solid, strong additive package (hence my heavy use of Rotella) and good base oils so additives are unnecessary.

But some I can and do recommend do what they say:
Lube Control
Auto-Rx Engine Cleaner

Where would I learn so much about oil? Bob Is The Oil Guy

brother

· #43 · Dec 21, 2007

I have 28k on my Nomad on castrol sintec.

RichLockyer

· #44 · Dec 21, 2007

Currently running Mobil-1 V-Twin, will change it at 6,000 and see how it holds up.
So far, shifting and engine noise are good.

My Personal Test Results:
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/oil.xls
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-2000.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/Amsoil_MCV_2000.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/MotulTwinSynUOA.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/M1-15w50UOA.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/RP20w50UOA.jpg

Virgin Analyses:
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-virgin.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/Amsoil_MCV_Virgin.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/virgin_m1_15w-50.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/rotella-syn5w40.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/MotulTwinSynVOA.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/CastGTXVOA.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/RP20w50New.jpg

Oil Analysis Collected from Others:
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-goldcap.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/rotella-5w40-1.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/rotella-5w40-2.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/rotella-15w40.pdf
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-15w50.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-15w50.pdf
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-vtwin.pdf
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/M1-15W50-3704.pdf
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/Kaw1600_Oil_Sample_1.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1_15w-50_2k.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/meanstreak_amsoil.jpg

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JimmyD

· #45 · Dec 21, 2007

ikarus1 said:
the reason why oil threads are relevent (even old ones) is because the cost
of all oil products have increased, along with the fact that "green" is now the color of popularity. The less used oil released in the enviroment, the better off our kids are (note the recent San Fran Bay disaster). I am by no means a tree hugger, but educating yourselves about something that is reusable is smart.

Not to mention better performance / longevity about using superior products for longer periods between changes.

I might be a noob here but not new to using a wrench or a computer which it seems many can do one but not both around these parts :lol:

Not arguing with your point,I think it' a good one, but it's bad form to dig up a 4 year old thread on a web forum. Most of the people in said thread are long gone and you tend to look foolish in the process.

You'd be better off starting a new thread on the subject. That's been done several times before. :smile: As for oil, I change mine with quality mineral every 2500-3000 miles.

t120rmike

· #46 · Jan 6, 2008

All About Motor Oil

This is a pretty in depth article, but it has great information.

flash gordon

· #47 · May 21, 2008

read your manual it says SAE 10w-40(unless climate condition determine otherwise). It DOES NOT SAY MC oil or Car oil. it says SAE 10w-40.

RichLockyer

· #48 · May 21, 2008

It also says

API SE, SF, or SG
API SH or SJ with JASO MA

Current automotive oils are generally SL and now SM is becoming widespread.

People have been using Mobil-1 15w50 "Redcap" and then "Goldcap" for many years without problems. I used the new M1 15w50 with a gray cap, which is an "SM" grade oil and encountered clutch slippage.

The EPA is forcing additive package changes, and we can no longer rely on whether or not an oil has the "Energy Conserving" label as to whether or not it is acceptable.

SOME automotive oils are still fine... in particular, Castrol GTX, Rotella 15w40, Delvac 15w40, etc... but other oils that "have always been fine" are now starting to cause problems.

V2K_CCTX

· #49 · May 21, 2008

With so many threads on oil, we are going to need a separate topic header just for OIL!

RichLockyer

· #50 · May 22, 2008

V2K_CCTX said:
With so many threads on oil, we are going to need a separate topic header just for OIL!

Heck.... there's an entire FORUM
Bob Is The Oil Guy

G

· #51 · Jun 17, 2008

1Adam12 said:
http://www.motorworld.com/products/2000/mobil1/index.html

Here is an article on Mobil 1

There was also an article in Sport Rider Mag comparing automotive/motorcycle/premium blends and etc. And although Mobil 1 didn't "win," it scored in the top 3 or 4 (of about 20 products.) And that was against names like Spectro, Motul, AMSoil, etc...

Not bad for oil that's half the price of the competition!

I'm trying to dig up the article...

trjam

· #52 · Jun 17, 2008

I know for a fact that most of the Goldwingers that have over 100,000 on their bikes swear by Amsoil and Mobil for helping them get there. As far as automobile oil, it is fine as long as it meets the following criteria.

1)Be sure you buy an API certified oil.
(2)Check the bottom half of the API seal, if it has the words ‘Energy Conserving’ then its probably better to pass on that one.
(3)If you do use an automotive oil you might want to reduce the mileage between oil change intervals.

RichLockyer

· #53 · Jun 18, 2008

trjam said:
(2)Check the bottom half of the API seal, if it has the words ‘Energy Conserving’ then its probably better to pass on that one.

There are ZERO "Energy Conserving" oils heavier than 10w30, yet there are many 10w40 and 20w50 oils that are not suitable for a wet clutch.

(3)If you do use an automotive oil you might want to reduce the mileage between oil change intervals.

+1

Viscosity breakdown is the problem. Mobil-1 V-Twin and Amsoil MCV still hold enough viscosity to test within spec for a NEW 20w50 after 2,000 miles, and after 6,000, just barely crack into the heavy 40wt area. My last 6k change on V-Twin was actually still in spec for 20w50.
Automotive 20w50 oils, as well as Motul Twin-Synd MC oil tested in the heavy 30wt range after 2,000.

IF you're going to go with automotive oil and stick with change intervals no higher than 2500 miles, Castrol GTX is a good one.

trjam

· #54 · Jun 18, 2008

well Rich, you will be happy to know at my 600 mile service yesterday, I switched to Amsoil. Running like a dream. Better, we are planning a ride to Mount Mitchell on the 28th.:smile:

joey250

· #55 · Aug 6, 2008

Non Sense

Brett,

I ran Castrol synthetic 10w 40 in my 03 ninja 636 and ran it for 16K changing the oil every 3-5K and never had a problem. I just bought an 08 zx6r and plan on doing the same thing.

keeber

· #56 · Aug 6, 2008

Check this link... Motorcycle Oil and Filters

doh link already posted just scrolled up and saw it... +1 on this guys infos

I am using Royal Purple 15w40 and Synthetic Rotella 5w40 in mine as well as several of my rider friends and we've had good success with them.

41 - 56 of 56 Posts

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