I have a 86 Ninja 600R with 18000 miles that bogs heavily when I roll on the throttle. It seems worse when the outside temp is cooler. The valves were "supposeldy" adjusted when I took it in for a major $800 tune up at the local Kawasaki dealer about 500 miles ago. Could it be plugs, or carb jetting? The mechanic replaced the jets during the tune up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Boggy on throttle roll
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Did she "BOG" before the $800 service ?
If not it could be that the Jets fitted are the cause.
Out of morbid curiosity why were the Jets replaced ??
If not it could be that the Jets fitted are the cause.
Out of morbid curiosity why were the Jets replaced ??
I honeslty don't know if she bogged prior to the service or not. I just bought the bike and the guy I bought it from had it sitting for a year or so and was going to start riding so he took it for a good "looking over" and then couldn't afford to pay the shop bill so I bought it fromhim for the shop bill of $800. The paperwork says they adjusted the valves, fixed the petcock and replaced jets. I guess the jets may have been gummed up sinced the bike was sitting for a year or more.
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me too
I bought an 87 zx600 in Feb that had been sitting for over a year as well... and it had similar problems. It missed on top of lagging, and sometimes would surge when a jet got stuck. The guy I bought it from said he had tuned it up and all that jazz... prior to it sitting.
I ran a few tanks of fuel with fuel treatment through it, as well as got some CFC free carb cleaner and shot some of that in while it was running to clean the throttle plates, and now it runs like a champ. Beats overhauling the carbs if you don't have to... and if you do at least you only wasted $6 on the treatment & carb cleaner.
I bought an 87 zx600 in Feb that had been sitting for over a year as well... and it had similar problems. It missed on top of lagging, and sometimes would surge when a jet got stuck. The guy I bought it from said he had tuned it up and all that jazz... prior to it sitting.
I ran a few tanks of fuel with fuel treatment through it, as well as got some CFC free carb cleaner and shot some of that in while it was running to clean the throttle plates, and now it runs like a champ. Beats overhauling the carbs if you don't have to... and if you do at least you only wasted $6 on the treatment & carb cleaner.
DO this
Drain the gas into you mower can and get FRESH gas from a top source and use 92+ octane...and change out your plugs, again...I'd bet it is one or both...please let me know...If I had to chose one it would be the gas, but the plugs are affected by the gas..check fo rthe prober plug and the proper gap...but get new ones anyway!!!
Drain the gas into you mower can and get FRESH gas from a top source and use 92+ octane...and change out your plugs, again...I'd bet it is one or both...please let me know...If I had to chose one it would be the gas, but the plugs are affected by the gas..check fo rthe prober plug and the proper gap...but get new ones anyway!!!
I am on like the fifth tank since buying the bike and I always run 92+ octane. I also changed the plugs and made sure the gap was correct. The plugs I took out looked fine as well.
I wonder if I am just running too lean because the upper part of the throttle position seems to work fine. I have a Vance & Hines 4 to 1 exhaust and I am afraid that the jets may not have been replaced when the exhaust was changed. I was also wondering if it is possible to adjust the fuel to air mixture with the pilot jets on these carbs. The manual only mentions if you are removing to clean that you need to dislodge the jet cover plugs and count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet completly prior to removing so you can install them in the same position after cleaning.
Does anyone know how to tell if all of the carbs are running the same fuel to air mixture so I can adjust all 4 carbs the same. I am familiar with a carb synchronization tool but I don't think that does fuel to air, just vacuum.
Someone, Please help me....
I wonder if I am just running too lean because the upper part of the throttle position seems to work fine. I have a Vance & Hines 4 to 1 exhaust and I am afraid that the jets may not have been replaced when the exhaust was changed. I was also wondering if it is possible to adjust the fuel to air mixture with the pilot jets on these carbs. The manual only mentions if you are removing to clean that you need to dislodge the jet cover plugs and count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet completly prior to removing so you can install them in the same position after cleaning.
Does anyone know how to tell if all of the carbs are running the same fuel to air mixture so I can adjust all 4 carbs the same. I am familiar with a carb synchronization tool but I don't think that does fuel to air, just vacuum.
Someone, Please help me....
TWO THINGS TO TRY
First do you have a brand new air filter? One that has been wet, if it is paper may be messed up....Second...try, adding a "little" choke while she is running (making it run rich) to see if it makes the problem worse...or hopefully it will show you that it is running lean and you ned to readjust...what do the plugs read? Whitish gray..light brown, dark to oily wet???
First do you have a brand new air filter? One that has been wet, if it is paper may be messed up....Second...try, adding a "little" choke while she is running (making it run rich) to see if it makes the problem worse...or hopefully it will show you that it is running lean and you ned to readjust...what do the plugs read? Whitish gray..light brown, dark to oily wet???
ONE MORE THING
IF your plugs read a little dark then check with the parts people and get the next plug hotter. I wouldn't notmally advise this but running up north whre you are in the cool, moist air and perhaps not bogging, but running slightly low in the RPM range you could be running to cool. I can hear the complaints coming now...but unless you have lived in the Seattle, and further north area in Washington state you wouldn't understand...the trees are tall, the roads are nice, yet it's very humid and can be very wet at times...
IF your plugs read a little dark then check with the parts people and get the next plug hotter. I wouldn't notmally advise this but running up north whre you are in the cool, moist air and perhaps not bogging, but running slightly low in the RPM range you could be running to cool. I can hear the complaints coming now...but unless you have lived in the Seattle, and further north area in Washington state you wouldn't understand...the trees are tall, the roads are nice, yet it's very humid and can be very wet at times...
BigTirez 86 Ninja Problem
I have the same bike (except I have 30000+ miles on it) and did experance the same problem. This bike is notorious for burning up the spark plug boots. Check the spark wires and make sure they are not fried. After that, since the bike is older, the carbs could most likely use a good cleaning balancing and adjusting. This is one thing worth paying to have done by a pro. For me, doing these 2 things fixed the problem and she runs like a new bike. Smooth power from 0-12000 RPM and not a trace of the hiddious bogging down. My bike even started right up in 42 deg weather yesterday. Never done that before.
I have the same bike (except I have 30000+ miles on it) and did experance the same problem. This bike is notorious for burning up the spark plug boots. Check the spark wires and make sure they are not fried. After that, since the bike is older, the carbs could most likely use a good cleaning balancing and adjusting. This is one thing worth paying to have done by a pro. For me, doing these 2 things fixed the problem and she runs like a new bike. Smooth power from 0-12000 RPM and not a trace of the hiddious bogging down. My bike even started right up in 42 deg weather yesterday. Never done that before.
Bogging
I have a 2004 Vulcan 500 LTD that has just had its 500 mile service. When I dropped it off it ran fine, but now it bogs like a SOB. I took it right back, of course, and the fella there turned the idling screw down some. This helped a good deal but did not fix the problem. More like covered it up. Also the air flow through the right hand pipe now feels choppy and erratic. Anyway my point is: Maybe they DID do something wrong for you on that tune up. I'll be going back this week, and if they can get it fixed I'll let you know what was wrong. Maybe it will help.
I have a 2004 Vulcan 500 LTD that has just had its 500 mile service. When I dropped it off it ran fine, but now it bogs like a SOB. I took it right back, of course, and the fella there turned the idling screw down some. This helped a good deal but did not fix the problem. More like covered it up. Also the air flow through the right hand pipe now feels choppy and erratic. Anyway my point is: Maybe they DID do something wrong for you on that tune up. I'll be going back this week, and if they can get it fixed I'll let you know what was wrong. Maybe it will help.
Take it back and explain
Take it back and explain what the problem is and be specific. Don't get upset or raise your tone of voice, just give them the facts and tell them that it's still not right, and show them even. Have them take it out while you wait nad let them feel what you explained...Just be calm, cool, and direct to the point...not demanding, and rattled...
Take it back and explain what the problem is and be specific. Don't get upset or raise your tone of voice, just give them the facts and tell them that it's still not right, and show them even. Have them take it out while you wait nad let them feel what you explained...Just be calm, cool, and direct to the point...not demanding, and rattled...
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