There are three areas that will require modification to boost the speed initially, and the drive train has to be up to the job.

There are five wires to the speedometer, three for bulbs, one for a ground, and the other is the rev limiter that takes a signal from the speedometer.

The carburetors have two sets of main jets, both sets have to be replaced to avoid burning down a cylinder. Keep in mind that speed is a function of fuel available at higher rpm's and engine loads, so you will need to go to the larger jets. The pilot jets should be upped a size, that is your idle to slightly more than half throttle fuel source. Then the pilot air screws need to be correctly adjusted to get the optimum performance. Sometimes you can get away with just backing out the pilot air screws a half turn or so without replacing the pilot jets.

That will get you to the 40's. Make sure the drive and driven converters are in good shape and not sloppy in the bushings, the pivots, rollers, or that the helix and shoes on the driven clutch are in good shape, before you increase the speed and engine rpm, you do not want to blow one and get hurt. The belt also has to be within tolerances.

The dual overhead camshafts use a chain to drive them, that chain has to be correctly adjusted, in good shape, and the two chain guides must be in good condition or you will toss the cam chain and grenade the engine. The valves have to be properly adjusted.

You can get plenty of additional speed, but you are risking your neck. The suspension geometry makes them a bit tricky and prone to flipping once you get the speed above 30 or so.

The additional speed and power puts a bigger strain on things like the converter and transmission, and those parts are getting quite scarce and some are now unobtainable.

I would recommend you just spring for a BRP Can-Am Commander if hair shirt speed is important, you have good health insurance, and if possibly going splat and ending it all is not an issue. I have one that will easily top 100 mph. Chews through racing fuel at a rate of close to a gallon a mile, but it does scream along faster than anyone else's side by side.

 

What??!! 100mph? Nice! What mods did u do to it? Thank u for ur reply. One question though. I have cut that light green wire at the igniter on the four pin connector and all it did was prevent it from starting. An I've even disconnected the speedometer and the speed was still limited.

 

Disconnecting the speedometer does no good, nor does clipping wires on the Igniter harness. You want the rev limiter circuit in the speedometer disconnected.

The Commander is the 1000X, and it will push 80 right off the showroom floor. Mine has the clutches machined, a turbocharger, larger fuel injector nozzles, higher pressure fuel pump, revised ECM, and tires designed for desert racing. My guess is that the dual cup holders are the real key to performance!

 

Oh ok sounds good. I'll have to look into that one whenever I decide to get a high performance side by side. Any other tricks for the mule 1000?

 

And I have my carbs taken apart. And in the manuel it says the the standard main jet for the left carb is #102 and the right #105. But what is in there now is #92 left and a #95 right. What size should I run?

 

The mains are altitude and temperature dependent. If you are under 6,000 feet in altitude I would go with the 102/105 combination as long as your exhaust is still stock. If you have the exhaust opened up or have dual exhaust, then take both to 108.

Be absolutely certain that your fuel float level is 1mm from the gasket surface of the bowl so you do not run lean and end up with engine damage.

Once you start pulling harder and faster keep an eye on your spark plugs and see how they look.

Be sure the bleeder holes in the jet needle holder are open or you will not be able to regulate the fuel properly.

Also, double check your carburetor and make sure it has the pilot screw in the bottom in front of the float bowl. Many times they are replaced with the motorcycle carb, and the most commonly used version has the pilot screw on top under a blind plug beneath the diaphragm cover. You will want to make sure you have the N36T jet needle installed in the diaphragm if you have the OEM Mule carb.

 

Ya I'm below 6,000 feet and I do plan on opening the exhaust or installing duel exhaust so I'm going to go with the 108 jets. And I don't think the N36T needle jet is stock on my mule but I pulled the ones I have in there now and they are a N77L and a N77M. So should I keep those needle jets in there or change them out? Also I could not find a rev limiter circuit on my wire diagram in my manuel but there is a speed sensor circuit in the speedometer unit. Do I just disconnect it? And thank u for all your help by the way.

 

Disconnected the green speed sensor wire at the speedometer and speed was still regulated, disconnected the black and yellow wire from the speed sensor and speed was still cutting out at 27 mph. Still need to install new jets but really want to get this speed to not b regulated anymore

 

If you have one with the limiter in the igniter, you will need to scare up the flywheel, stator, igniter, regulator, and pulsing coil assembly for the 454 LTD.

 

I can't just get the 454 LTD igniter and regulator?