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· Vicrory is Mine
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2,487 Posts
I have had the same brake fluid in my jeep for 15 years… maybe it’s time for a change.

I just changed the fluid in the V2K at maybe 17,000 miles… I forget the exact number. The fluid in the reservoir was a little dark, but what came out of the calipers was black. I pushed as much of the stuff out of the calipers as I could, but I know you can’t get it all out without disassembly… don’t want to do that unless absolutely needed.
 

· BACK ON TWO WHEELS
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13,540 Posts
flush thru about every two years...bikes and cars alike...i have a vacuum bleeder so its fast and easy...just suck it thru from the reseviour and keep filling and so one till it comes out clear
 

· VN900
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208 Posts
I agree, every 2 years is good. Remember, brake fluid collects moisture and deteriorates over time. Always use a fresh bottle instead of one that was opened long enough ago, when you can't remember when. Bikes are easy to bleed, just get a one man bleeder for about $7-8 and you'll be fine as long as you keep the resevoir above the minimum line when you flush. When the fluid comes out of the bleeder tube clean, just make sure you don't have any air bubbles. The small 12 oz.(?) bottle is all you need and try to use something good for high temperature. I think Castrol synthetic is one of the better ones. Actually, it's fun...Good Luck!
 

· Winter sucks.
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1,083 Posts
Every 2 years here. I also do the coolant at the same time and used to do the final drive oil on my last bike. It's a good spring project.

A Mighty-Vac helps a lot w/ the brakes.
 

· Registered
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2,025 Posts
I have had the same brake fluid in my jeep for 15 years… maybe it’s time for a change.

I just changed the fluid in the V2K at maybe 17,000 miles… I forget the exact number. The fluid in the reservoir was a little dark, but what came out of the calipers was black. I pushed as much of the stuff out of the calipers as I could, but I know you can’t get it all out without disassembly… don’t want to do that unless absolutely needed.
I am not opposed to changing fluids in vehicles but imo the public has been scammed into changing most vehicle fluids way to often.
 

· Registered
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301 Posts
That's probably true, but the 4 bucks worth of brake fluid and 10 bucks worth of coolant isn't going to break the bank. It's cheap peace of mind in my book.
$14 isn't going to break anyone's bank, but multiply that by 50 million vehicles and you see how much money the gas/oil/additives companies are making (we are wasting).
 

· VN900
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208 Posts
I guess there are some folks out there that haven't seen brakes likes break by rusting through from the inside or have flushed lines when the fluid is black and watery. I have in other folks vehicles & bikes. When water gets in the fluid & lines, it heats up faster than brake fluid and you can get pedal fade and worse. On another note, have you ever seen oil in forks turn black and start to break down in only 8,000 miles? It's all in maintenance and the harder you ride, the more maintenance you need to keep up with.
 

· Registered
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207 Posts
Thanks for the reminder...I bought my bike used,so for all I know, it has 9 year old fluid in it.I'll flush it over the winter,since I'm a big fan of great brakes and my 1500 classic has a single front caliper,so it needs all the help it can get....
 

· Workin' to ride
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559 Posts
Every 2 years here. I also do the coolant at the same time and used to do the final drive oil on my last bike. It's a good spring project.

A Mighty-Vac helps a lot w/ the brakes.
Which Mighty-Vac? The little hand pump looking one?
 

· Fat Bottomed Girl
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15,029 Posts
That's probably true, but the 4 bucks worth of brake fluid and 10 bucks worth of coolant isn't going to break the bank. It's cheap peace of mind in my book.
I have no clue know if you have in particular (just quoted one of these comments), but comments like this always make me smile a little due another very commn question: what grade fuel to use. Even when high octane is the recommendation, you typically see people say the lowest without pings...even though if you drive 1,000miles/month, it'll set you back $5. lol
 

· BACK ON TWO WHEELS
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13,540 Posts
on that note.pleeeeeeeeeease dont make me explain that ALL gasoline is the SAME base...its the additives that make it diff...and octane stows or reduces rate of combustion, allowing for higher compression and or advanced timing...

AGAIN on that note.....lets NOT get all wrapped around the axle
 

· V 2win
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444 Posts
every 2-3 years here, It seems like motorcycles brake/clutch fluid gets dirty quicker than cars, cheap preventative maint.
 

· Winter sucks.
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1,083 Posts
I have no clue know if you have in particular (just quoted one of these comments), but comments like this always make me smile a little due another very commn question: what grade fuel to use. Even when high octane is the recommendation, you typically see people say the lowest without pings...even though if you drive 1,000miles/month, it'll set you back $5. lol
I hear that. I run premium because it doesn't ping and the bike calls for it. I've spent 5 bucks on a lot less worthwhile things (like every time I go to a fast food place).
 

· Registered
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388 Posts
I go with Idaho, I just changed my brake and clutch fluid at four years and at 31K. Clutch was clear and nrml, brake had very little color to it, both measured "new" for moisture content. If you just bought a used bike then I would change all fluids to get a base line. For further info, I change oil and filter every 5k (Amsoil) and the rear dif every 25K, coolant every 3-4years.
 
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