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Proud Hokie!!
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Discussion Starter #1
Recently bought me a 2007 Vulcan 900 classic, because the deal was just too good to pass up -

Heres the question - the bike came with no history and the owner is not available to talk to. All I know is that the bike came from SC, and has 1450 miles on it. I have no clue how hard those first 1450 miles were driven. It did not come with an owners manual, but I did purchase a PDF version of the shop manual. I would assume that these miles are on the original oil - and that the original oil MAY have been synthetic?? So, without any history, I want to go ahead and do an oil and filter change. Is it OK with this few miles on it to change to Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic, or should I put a plain dino oil in for this first change (I prefer dino Rotella) thinking the rings and other components may need additional seating time?

2nd question - What oil filter is preferred? On my other vehicles, I prefer Wix, Napa Gold, Purolater Pure 1, Mobile 1....pretty much anything but Fram. Which specific filter does this bike take?



Thanks in advance! - Ned
 

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2005 V2K
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1,509 Posts
If the rings haven't sealed by 1,450 miles you have a problem. Oppinions vary, but, many believe that the first 20 miles or so are the most critical. I wouldn't be too concerned as long as the bike is running well. You have enough miles to switch to synthetic. I've only used Purolator filters, PL 14612, same for the 9 and 2K. Remember, it's your ride, use what ever you're comfortable with. The attached link should provide some interesting reading for you. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
By the way, welcome and nice looking ride!
 

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Welcome to the forum Nedley.
That's a good looking bike.
I think that Kawasaki only puts in dyno oil, but the first oil change schedule is at 600 miles. IMHO, I don't think it would be a problem to go ahead and use a synthetic oil in place of a dyno oil.
It never hurts to do early oil changes (unless you're counting pennies).
As far as the filter goes, I just buy the Kawasaki brand, although I'm sure there are others that would fit.
 

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Correct, first change @ 600 mi. I did my own and checked the screen at 150 mi. Didn't switch over to synth until around 1650 mi. I've done another synth/filter change since, running the Mobile V-twin 10w40 (they label it as racing oil w/ a sportbike on it), and the Mobile M1-108 filter. Cost for 4 qts oil, filter and a new drain washer was $44. Walmart has the oil, but not the filter. Autozone, O'Reilly's and Advanced Auto parts all have both.
Going to synth will quiet that engine and tranny down also.
 

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Proud Hokie!!
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Discussion Starter #5
Great replies - and thanks. As far as oil goes - besides viscosity, are there any differences between the Mobil 1 10W40 (racing labeled) and the Mobil 20W50 V-Twin synthetics? I notice that Rich's data is based on the 20W50 version of these products. Wally World sells both here in KY ($8.29/qt)vs $8.89 at AutoZone.
 

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MaNaMaNa DoDoDoDoDo
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Welcome nedley. Nice looking ride. I am sure Rich will pop in sometime today to give you a good answer.
 

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Poser Proud®
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Welcome! You got yourself a nice bike there. I had the shop do the 600 mile, and I did a change to Kawa 100% synth at 1000. I really like the difference with the synth. I would do a change now and go to the synth. I'm not sure any one filter is any better, but my dealer sells Hiflo filters (the HF303) fits the 900. It is a premium filter and costs a little more, but it has some "little extras" like a pre lubed "O" ring. Again welcome and you are going to love that 900.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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I put V-Twin in my 1600 at 500 miles.
 

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Every day is a good ride
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I believe that switching to synthetics is not good for bikes or cars withhigh mileage. As meentioned before, go with a premium filter, M1, Purolator, Amzoil and even the Walmart tech series is better than fram and most others.
 
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