Breaking in an engine
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break in
Yeah, I have a 250 myself but bought it used. I've been riding my brothers, however, to put miles on it . . and it's still in the break-in. I haven't gone over 6000 rpms really on it but am thinking of opening it up a little. That guy seems like he knows what he's talking about in his article.
Kyle
Yeah, I have a 250 myself but bought it used. I've been riding my brothers, however, to put miles on it . . and it's still in the break-in. I haven't gone over 6000 rpms really on it but am thinking of opening it up a little. That guy seems like he knows what he's talking about in his article.
Kyle
I'll make another post about it, or write it in this one. I'm not getting the bike for a few months, though.pocetsean said:if you use the other break in method, do tell us all how the bike responds and anything else you notice about the bike. i am curious
wearing in or breaking in an engine
Motoman has an interesting site and view of the wear-in process, but there are others out there with some informative views on it as well.
Check out these sites for additional info and examples:
http://www.bmwrt.com/faq/breakin.htm
http://www.steelthundercc.com/enginebreakin.htm
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
And of course, the topic as discussed by Motoman is at:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
* I hope all of the above sites download ok for you.
After reading Break In Secrets by Motoman, I asked a couple of machinists if they had done the dyno testing of car engines or motorcycle engines. They had. I asked them what they thought of this process and would they do it. One told me that he has a friend who races sprint cars and brakes-in all of his engines in this manner with great success. Neither machinist had anything bad to say of this process and said they would have no problems in doing it as written by Motoman.
I have never done this to any engine, so I don't speak as an expert on the subject at all. I have had several antique autos and the old cars essentially had the standard wear-in done on them and not the method that Motoman described. I do admit that I research things pretty well before making up my mind and taking any plunge. So far I am aggressively leaning toward this system of wear-in when I get my new bike. It just makes a more logincal sense to me at present.
Some people hold the exact opposite view and reply soundly that all major companies selling cars or motorcycles have a set way in the owner's manual to suggest wear-in or run-in, and that they would not have recommended doing it their way if it was not the way to go. They say that the corporate lawyers and the car/motorcycle designers and engineers could not all be wrong. However, they seem to forget that most of what is out there contained in owner manuals is predominantly designed to keep the company out of any law suits.
Making the choice to wear-in an engine in the above manner is a personal choice. One has to weigh out for themselves just how to do it and if it is worth doing. One should think of any warranty issues and address them in their minds to see if this system is for them or not. One should always research anything like this to be informed first before jumping in and just doing it. If it is your choice to go this route and it works wonderfully well for you, then please post the results and let us know. If it does not work at all and you absolutely are dead set against anyone else trying it, then let us know that as well. It all helps for others who are trying to make a good choice on the matter.
It would really be interesting to have a couple of stock bikes to test in both methods and to break them down at set intervals to view the interior of the engine, pistons, rods, bearings and all for comparrison. It would be nice to have them both dyno tested in the same manner, at set intervals, to see just what the actual power curve is as well. And finally a break down of the engine at a set interval well after the wear-in period to see what the engines of both bikes really look like at this point. Guess it is a pipe dream to think someone would do this in a sort of scientific manner, but nice to hope someone does at some point in time.
Huey
Motoman has an interesting site and view of the wear-in process, but there are others out there with some informative views on it as well.
Check out these sites for additional info and examples:
http://www.bmwrt.com/faq/breakin.htm
http://www.steelthundercc.com/enginebreakin.htm
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
And of course, the topic as discussed by Motoman is at:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
* I hope all of the above sites download ok for you.
After reading Break In Secrets by Motoman, I asked a couple of machinists if they had done the dyno testing of car engines or motorcycle engines. They had. I asked them what they thought of this process and would they do it. One told me that he has a friend who races sprint cars and brakes-in all of his engines in this manner with great success. Neither machinist had anything bad to say of this process and said they would have no problems in doing it as written by Motoman.
I have never done this to any engine, so I don't speak as an expert on the subject at all. I have had several antique autos and the old cars essentially had the standard wear-in done on them and not the method that Motoman described. I do admit that I research things pretty well before making up my mind and taking any plunge. So far I am aggressively leaning toward this system of wear-in when I get my new bike. It just makes a more logincal sense to me at present.
Some people hold the exact opposite view and reply soundly that all major companies selling cars or motorcycles have a set way in the owner's manual to suggest wear-in or run-in, and that they would not have recommended doing it their way if it was not the way to go. They say that the corporate lawyers and the car/motorcycle designers and engineers could not all be wrong. However, they seem to forget that most of what is out there contained in owner manuals is predominantly designed to keep the company out of any law suits.
Making the choice to wear-in an engine in the above manner is a personal choice. One has to weigh out for themselves just how to do it and if it is worth doing. One should think of any warranty issues and address them in their minds to see if this system is for them or not. One should always research anything like this to be informed first before jumping in and just doing it. If it is your choice to go this route and it works wonderfully well for you, then please post the results and let us know. If it does not work at all and you absolutely are dead set against anyone else trying it, then let us know that as well. It all helps for others who are trying to make a good choice on the matter.
It would really be interesting to have a couple of stock bikes to test in both methods and to break them down at set intervals to view the interior of the engine, pistons, rods, bearings and all for comparrison. It would be nice to have them both dyno tested in the same manner, at set intervals, to see just what the actual power curve is as well. And finally a break down of the engine at a set interval well after the wear-in period to see what the engines of both bikes really look like at this point. Guess it is a pipe dream to think someone would do this in a sort of scientific manner, but nice to hope someone does at some point in time.
Huey
Re: wearing in or breaking in an engine
In reality, I doubt that hard or easy break-in makes much difference to modern engines; some difference, yes, but not as much as in the old days. Being an old fashioned and conservative guy, I will advise the Kawasaki method until I see proof that another method is stastically better.
Curt
I would love to see that study. It would be even better if it included 10 bikes, five for each break-in method. Then you could create some statisitical probabilities that the differences were caused by the break-in methods.Huey said:
In reality, I doubt that hard or easy break-in makes much difference to modern engines; some difference, yes, but not as much as in the old days. Being an old fashioned and conservative guy, I will advise the Kawasaki method until I see proof that another method is stastically better.
Curt
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