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Brute 750 Tire-Burnout Effect?

2K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  bruteforcebum 
#1 ·
The guy I bought my 2008 Brute from (~240 miles on it), liked to do burnouts in 2WD so the rear tires are far more worn than the front. He was honest about it, etc...
Anyway, I noticed that there is some grease/oil from the exit of the crankshaft on the back of the engine. I've been through the service manual and it shows there is a seal there. I have a 2006 Brute (140 miles) and there is no sign of oil there.
I don't know if this was a point that was oiled and left over (tonight I've wiped it clean and will ride a bit then look but from what I recall the oil is still fresher than not).

Anyway, with low hours I'm wondering if doing burnouts would cause the rear tires to rotate at an excessively high RPM (given low friction/force from just locking front brake and cranking up the engine) and possibly heat up the rubber seal causing it to fail? In a way, it seems unlikely given the engine should peak out, etc. and even though the guy liked doing burnouts (he's a gear head so understands about red-line, etc.), it would seem that he would need to back off the throttle before RPM's went too high for fear of blowing the engine. If he maintained reasonable RPMs within redline then shouldn't that rear seal function properly given the rear shaft should NOT experience some sort of over-speed that would cause excessive heat and then premature failure of the rear seal?

OK, so, all that said, maybe some oil leakage is ok and I'm fabricating cause/effect above ???? :shock:

Engine purs like a kitten and she runs like an absolute top. No complaints at all...except concern about this. Again, my '06 Brute is bone dry where the shaft leaves the engine.. hence my concern. What oil is that burning? Not engine oil and not rear diff oil so usual bearing pack grease? If that is the case then it would be easy to run that grease out and then burnout that bearing.

???

Thanks guys for any insight/thoughts.

I noticed this when I took the rear wheels off to replace the rubber from his burnouts! :rolleyes:
 
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#2 ·
Like all the belt driven torque converter ATV's, the Brute will knock out the seals behind both the drive and driven clutches by doing rapid clutch engagement power-on burnout's.

What happens is the drive sheaves lock so quickly as to shock the crankshaft and the driven shaft and cause them to jerk sideways into the tightening belt. That knocks out the seals, and does so quite quickly because of the power and torque of that engine.

Usually they will begin to leak a bit and can run that way for years if the owner keeps them serviced with the correct oil. Sometimes it is necessary to replace the seals and occasionally it is necessary to replace the crankshaft because it is bent or the connecting rod big end bearings are worn on one end from the crank being over-stressed.
 
#3 ·
Wow. Thanks! Really interesting cause/effect. Appreciate the response. That oil that is leaking is engine or transmission oil? I've wiped it all down so will take a look to see what rate it seems to be leaking at. The whole buying used thing is starting to get to me... maybe I'll ride these two rigs for the summer and sell them and just buy one new. I paid $5500 for this 2008 and I saw a brand new 2009 for $6400 a couple days after I bought it! 8(
I'm going to go through the service manual and get to know it better... definitely love these machines though...amazing power and engineering in them. The '06 I have runs well just a bit rough on start up where the '08 doesn't have a bit of a cough or anything from the engine. '06 may need valve adjustment, etc.
 
#5 ·
I'm going out riding Sat so will let you guy sknow what type of leakage occurs. Just put new ITP's on... can't wait!
Also, I looked at the fine print of the dealer selling the new rigs for $6400... it actually comes out to about $7200 with all the dealer charges... so I'm still happy even if I have some leakage and need to replace. I'll take a photo so it's clear to y'all.
 
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