[megahyperion]

I had a tough time tracking this problem down as you can see in this thread http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2365

But here is your fix

The flooding problem with gas pissing out of the carbs is caused by the float needles not seating properly, most likely from rust in the tank seeping into the float bowls and lodging up in there.

I would suggest to clean the tank, all fuel lines, fuel inlets on carb, fuel filter, petcock, float bowls, and the needles to solve this problem.

You can solve it by just cleaning the carbs but most likely it will come back very fast since there is still rust in the tank.

You should feel the want to clean the tank anyway if you have this problem since the rust will only stop up your fuel filter and rob you of power by causing your engine to run lean.

After that I would mix a small amount of oil in with the gas (follow standard 2 stroke premix directions for this, I know your motor is a 4 stroke) on your last run of the summer to help lube up the tank, this wont harm the motor or carbs but will mean you will need to change your plugs the following year which you should do anyway.

If you still skeptical here is some food for though, I have owned, drove, and raced rx7's for over 6 years and they inject oil directly into the motor to keep it lubed.
They do this constantly without you even knowing its happening, this is mainly because of the design of the engine but it just goes to show it wont harm anything.
Alot of people even opt to ditch the oil injection system all together in fear it might fail and not inject oil.
These people pour the oil right in their gas tank every single fill up and it harms nothing.

Also give MMO a shot (marvel mystery oil) try to make a habbit of using it as directed once every other month, or at least once a year.

If your bike is driven all year round I wouldnt worry about oiling it up too much since it would take a while for the tank to rust back up, but MMO is your freind. Make a habbit of using it once a year.

You can also try products such as seafoam, I once did a write up on seafoam aft (automatic trans fluid) and mmo (marvel mystery oil) and seafoam will clean the best if you want to knock some of the carbon deposits out of your motor, but MMO can be used in your fuel and oil or dumped directly into the motor and its tried and true on piston motors.


If this still doesnt do the trick or you are having other problems post here and I will do my best to help you out.

Please dont p.m. with questions because everyone wont see the individual fixes for each problem.

 

[JasonO]

I've still got gas leaking into my air box after hooking the vaccuum hose up from the petcock to the carbs, and i've cleaned the carbs thuroughly. . . more than once to clear up all the problems i've been having. . . and everything is clean and shiny. I suppose the only thing is that my needles aren't adjusted correctly with my floats. How and exactly what should i adjust to make my needles stop the gas flow better?

 

[megahyperion]

Generally speaking floats dont just get thrown out of adjustment, I would try everything else first.

I have a carb guy who used to work for me and was teaching me about modding and rebuilding carbs and 1 thing I learned is dont mess with the floats.

first get everything working like the gas to stop leaking, then adjust the floats with a synchronizer to sync up the carbs.

If you havent played with your floats and they where working fine I would say they are still adjust correctly, or at least good enough to not leak fuel and get you running.

Try taking the floats out very carefully, remove the pins that hold them into place and set the floats aside in order so they go back in the carb they came out of.

After that very carefully remove the float valves one by one, they can go back in any order.

clean the float valves with a toothbrush some warm water and dish soap, get the tips good, make sure you dont fudge up the springs on the float valves though.

after that clean the carbs with warm water and dish soap, use a toothbrush to get inside the holes where the float valves set.

make sure you clean the entire bowl with a toothbrush and soapy water, also remove and clean the main jets with a toothbrush and soapy water, blow through each one to make sure they are free and clear.

after you have done all of this you can start the reassembly process and use some compressed air to blow out all the jets and where the float valves go.

Dry the bowl and all components good with compressed air or allow to air dry in doors over night, this will prevent any rusting, now lightly squirt wd-40 on some of the moving components in the float bowls, this will help keep the moving parts moving and help to prevent rusting.

Now turn the carbs aproximatly 45 degrees from being help upside down, with the floats all reattached and the floats just barely resting on the float valves NOT COMPRESSING THE VALVES you will notice the floats will sink down but not compress the little button on the float valves.

from there you can take a ruler and measure to see if each float is aproximatly 17mm from where the bowl seperates to the very bottom of the floats.

if your 16-18mm the carbs should not leak fuel.

After all this is done you should be in the clear.

Also if you noticed its every carb doing it and not just one or a pair then the chance your floats are off is even less likely, think about it, all 4 floats off and there all off in the same direction, and there all off enough to cause the carbs to leak fuel, highely unlikely.

But beware if you ask around (I noticed on this forum alot and other forums) people always try to get you to play with your floats, beaware of these people and just move on.

Only play with your floats for tunning, not to get the carbs to stop leaking fuel.

 

[JasonO]

Everything in the carbs is cleaned thuroughly, i promise. All hoses are hooked up now. I'm pretty sure the only thing it could be is the floats/needles. We may have thrown them off when we first cleaned the carbs. . . thx though for the info on approx settings.

 

[woundwort]

Well, I agree not to mess. the tang for adjustment on mine is pretty stiff so one would assume rough treatment.. However, don't forget to shake them if they are not the solid plastic type float. If they seem to have fluid in them shaking around they are junk.

 

[megahyperion]

Did you leave the vent tubes unplugged?

 

[JasonO]

I actually think my dad chipped off the tip of one of the needles where the float hits it, so that one could be the only problem, but i'm pretty sure they are all leaking, from what i see of wetness in the air box. Theres nothing in the floats, we made sure to check that out, and everything else is clean in there i'm sure.

 

[1Adam12]

Make sure that you have a good seal on top with the Vacuum piston valves diaphram. I had one carb that was not a good seal and I had a very, very small dribble of gas come out. After I reseated the diaphram - all was good. During that same sequence I was checking to make sure Had solid connections and the problem was cured.

 

[JasonO]

What vent tubes are you talking about, on the air box? on the carbs? not sure what you mean.

 

[1Adam12]

I think mega was talking about the carbs

 

[JasonO]

On the carbs, as pictured in the diagram, the outer two vaccuum tubes are hooked up to the main vaccuum system. One is hooked up to the petcock, and the other is capped, which is what it was when i got it. . . should it be uncapped or something. I'm not a mechanic here, so i'm just saying it how it is on all this stuff, relatively new to the field of motorcycles and only know the shadetree stuff my dad has taught me.

 

[1Adam12]

You are doing fine and I give you credit for wrenching. Some owners don't even change their oil.....

Carbs 1 and 4 have a vacuum tube joined together and go into the vacuum of the engine.

Carb 2 has vacuum going to the petcock as described

Carb 3 should be capped!

From left to right as you are sitting on the bike looking forward

1 2 3 4


3 has the cap

 

[megahyperion]

inbetween carbs 1&2 then inbetween 2&4 you should see some vacuum fittings, these are for the vent tubes and should be left unplugged, they may already have tubes on them, if you blow in them gas will come squirting out of the carbs

 

[1Adam12]

Hey mega - hows the project going. The carb bank you sent me had a little hiccup, but all is good. I got everything to work again...

The diaphrams did not seal air at first on two of them, but I stretched the rubber a little and closed the carb cover down on top of it. At some point they got smushed and screwed down on top of where it should seal up like a gasket.

If I could figure a way to change the diaphram only from my original ones to the new vacuum valve pistons I would be even better.

 

[megahyperion]

Project is not going to bad, I already ripped the bike back down, so far I have all the fairings to get painted, I have the oil flushed, coolant flushed ,head cover off (need to clean and set valve lash) gauges are all off ( making some custom ones). I still have to sync the carbs, do some painting touch up on the frame and motor, take off the wheels and paint them, install new brakes, and more

I am just taking it step by step, I also started sanding my header to get all the rust off then I will probably get it repowder coated or chrome plated, I also ruined my muffler trying to get it off the rusty pipe so I need a new muffler (sucks it was a yoshi) so I am going to buy one off ebay from any bike that looks like it has a straight pipe comming off the muffler then have my exhaust guy bend and cut it to spec.

Looks like its gonna be a while.

Glad to hear you got your bike back up and going, the bike was fun to ride while it was together, caint wait till its all done.

 

[JasonO]

Aye mega, thats how the carbs are set up, i know those two vent nipples you're talking about now, they are uncapped and do not have a hose going anywhere, 1 and 4 have the vaccuum hoses on it, 2 has the petcock hose, and 3 is capped on the vaccuum nipples. We ordered a set of needles today, since one is deffinately screwed up, and we'll take the carbs off and set them again i suppose.

 

[megahyperion]

Please do and reply with your findings, its really sounds like thats the problem.

Also remember that all 4 carbs are linked and it is highly unlikely just one will leak gas, usally the problem comes in 2's sometimes all 4.

 

[Josep]

Generally speaking floats dont just get thrown out of adjustment, I would try everything else first.

I have a carb guy who used to work for me and was teaching me about modding and rebuilding carbs and 1 thing I learned is dont mess with the floats.

first get everything working like the gas to stop leaking, then adjust the floats with a synchronizer to sync up the carbs.

If you havent played with your floats and they where working fine I would say they are still adjust correctly, or at least good enough to not leak fuel and get you running.

Try taking the floats out very carefully, remove the pins that hold them into place and set the floats aside in order so they go back in the carb they came out of.

After that very carefully remove the float valves one by one, they can go back in any order.

clean the float valves with a toothbrush some warm water and dish soap, get the tips good, make sure you dont fudge up the springs on the float valves though.

after that clean the carbs with warm water and dish soap, use a toothbrush to get inside the holes where the float valves set.

make sure you clean the entire bowl with a toothbrush and soapy water, also remove and clean the main jets with a toothbrush and soapy water, blow through each one to make sure they are free and clear.

after you have done all of this you can start the reassembly process and use some compressed air to blow out all the jets and where the float valves go.

Dry the bowl and all components good with compressed air or allow to air dry in doors over night, this will prevent any rusting, now lightly squirt wd-40 on some of the moving components in the float bowls, this will help keep the moving parts moving and help to prevent rusting.

Now turn the carbs aproximatly 45 degrees from being help upside down, with the floats all reattached and the floats just barely resting on the float valves NOT COMPRESSING THE VALVES you will notice the floats will sink down but not compress the little button on the float valves.

from there you can take a ruler and measure to see if each float is aproximatly 17mm from where the bowl seperates to the very bottom of the floats.

if your 16-18mm the carbs should not leak fuel.

After all this is done you should be in the clear.

Also if you noticed its every carb doing it and not just one or a pair then the chance your floats are off is even less likely, think about it, all 4 floats off and there all off in the same direction, and there all off enough to cause the carbs to leak fuel, highely unlikely.

But beware if you ask around (I noticed on this forum alot and other forums) people always try to get you to play with your floats, beaware of these people and just move on.

Only play with your floats for tunning, not to get the carbs to stop leaking fuel.

I have tried everything adnusying the needle ceaning everything and stil leaks as soon as a open the gas and crank the bike gas pours out of the little air vents or holes where the air cleaner goes here is a picture hopefully someone can help am very frustrated

 

[Josep]

 

[Josep]

I had a tough time tracking this problem down as you can see in this thread Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums

But here is your fix

The flooding problem with gas pissing out of the carbs is caused by the float needles not seating properly, most likely from rust in the tank seeping into the float bowls and lodging up in there.

I would suggest to clean the tank, all fuel lines, fuel inlets on carb, fuel filter, petcock, float bowls, and the needles to solve this problem.

You can solve it by just cleaning the carbs but most likely it will come back very fast since there is still rust in the tank.

You should feel the want to clean the tank anyway if you have this problem since the rust will only stop up your fuel filter and rob you of power by causing your engine to run lean.

After that I would mix a small amount of oil in with the gas (follow standard 2 stroke premix directions for this, I know your motor is a 4 stroke) on your last run of the summer to help lube up the tank, this wont harm the motor or carbs but will mean you will need to change your plugs the following year which you should do anyway.

If you still skeptical here is some food for though, I have owned, drove, and raced rx7's for over 6 years and they inject oil directly into the motor to keep it lubed.
They do this constantly without you even knowing its happening, this is mainly because of the design of the engine but it just goes to show it wont harm anything.
Alot of people even opt to ditch the oil injection system all together in fear it might fail and not inject oil.
These people pour the oil right in their gas tank every single fill up and it harms nothing.

Also give MMO a shot (marvel mystery oil) try to make a habbit of using it as directed once every other month, or at least once a year.

If your bike is driven all year round I wouldnt worry about oiling it up too much since it would take a while for the tank to rust back up, but MMO is your freind. Make a habbit of using it once a year.

You can also try products such as seafoam, I once did a write up on seafoam aft (automatic trans fluid) and mmo (marvel mystery oil) and seafoam will clean the best if you want to knock some of the carbon deposits out of your motor, but MMO can be used in your fuel and oil or dumped directly into the motor and its tried and true on piston motors.


If this still doesnt do the trick or you are having other problems post here and I will do my best to help you out.

Please dont p.m. with questions because everyone wont see the individual fixes for each problem.

I tried all of this and still leaking