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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I have a '78 kz200 with a clutch problem. I can't seem to get it to disengage. I replaced the clutch cable, and adjusted it according to the manual, and yet, the rear wheel will still move if it is in gear with the clutch in. Anyone have any suggestions? FYI - the clutch worked fine one day, then not at all the next.

Thanks! You guys are the best.
 

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Navy Vet Search & Rescue
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How much free travel does the clutch lever have? Have you gone back and redone all of the adjustments again? Something might have come loose since your adjustment.
 

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Vicrory is Mine
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2,489 Posts
Too much / not enough oil will cause this problem as will warped clutch plates.
 

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WFO Enthusiast
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it still moves with the tires on the ground or while its on the center stand? It will move some with the rear wheel off the ground even in nuetral.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks all for your responses!

Let me try to answer them all.
- The clutch remains fully engaged. I can't stop it with my hand. If I use the break, it stalls.

- I did change the oil and refilled such that the level is between the two marks on the right engine cover.

- The plates being warped is possible, but I feel like its unlikely b/c it was such a sudden change. I would think that would be more of a gradual problem.

I will drain the oil and try a lighter one, and recheck the clutch cable adj. Please let me know if anyone thinks of anything else.

THANKS!
 

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Hi All,

I have a '78 kz200 with a clutch problem. I can't seem to get it to disengage. I replaced the clutch cable, and adjusted it according to the manual, and yet, the rear wheel will still move if it is in gear with the clutch in. Anyone have any suggestions? FYI - the clutch worked fine one day, then not at all the next.

Thanks! You guys are the best.
Have you looked at the clutch basket's? most likley the tang's on the clutch friction disk's have worn into the clutch basket cuasing them to be locked in place,even if the cover releases ok the disk might not slide away from each other to release (common problem) the disk and basket's (inner and outer) should be replaced, but I have filed them down and got them to work for a while, also check that the friction disck's and steel's are not burnt up, you can restore the steel's by glassbeading them and then sanding with wet and dry 400- 1500 if you leave the steels course the clutch will grab until you get some miles on them.
 

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some older bikes's also used a push rod through the clutch basket to the pivot lever, in some cases there was a small ball bearing between the rod and the basket cover, if the ball fail's this will all of a sudden cuase the clucth to have a bunch of freeplay (like a broken cable) check a parts diagram to see if your's is set up this way.
 

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where the friction disk's in the basket, meet the leading edge of the basket you will see some wear, this is where the friction disk slam into the basket when being held into place by the clutch spring's (cluctch released) when the clutch in engaged the cover is pulled/or pushed away from the friction disk allowing them to slid freeley from the inner basket to the out basket ect...
if the leading edges where the friction disk get grooves worn deep enough into the basket, it wont allow the friction disk to totally release, cuasing a dragging clutch,
procedure: drain oil, remove clutch cover, remove clutch basket cover and springs, mark all disk and steels, (paint or scribe) mark outer to inner basket for balancing perposes, if you are going to replace the basket's you will need to buy rent steal a pair of basket plier's to hold the inner hub while you remove the hub nut.
I have removed just the cover, then hold pressure by hand up against the disk and steel's, then hit the hub nut with an air gun and busted them loose that way (I have also busted clucth hub;s this way, not recomended) dennis kirk has the pliers for about $25.00 worth the money.
once you remove the baskets and get them on the bench you will see the wear, then you can decide to file them down and or replace them
 
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