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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have a 2000 KAF2500 Mule. This morning my Wife said the idiot light came on while she was clearing the driveway. We thought it might be the oil level, but checked that. The lettering on the idiot light is worn away so I didn't discover it was the coolant temp until I checked the owner's manual.

My manual doesn't give a schematic or identify the wires by color. I have been able to get to the cooling fan by taking the left hand inner fender plate off, but I still can't determine what wire colors are coming from the cooling fan.

So, if anyone has a wiring schematic with wire colors, that would be very helpful.

Also, if someone could tell me where the cooling fan switch is located and the best way to get to it, would be awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well, no one responded to my post, so I'll update the 79 people who did.

I found the cooling fan switch, right below the radiator hose on the passenger side of the vehicle. Ordered a new switch, put it in, and now when the engine temp gets hot the switch turns on the fan.

Now, the fan doesn't go off, even after an hour running, key off. After I replaced the switch I had read about "burping" the system; I thought I had done it right. But could not burping the coolant system correctly make the fan not shut off?
 

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Did you check the thermostat? If it stays closed, you could have air on one side that doesn't allow an accurate reading for the gauge to take. When doing a cooling system,, I, personally, do the whole system. I replace the coolant, thermostat, check/or just replace the hoses. I assume when you write "switch", you're talking about the temperature sending unit, right? If the wires are connected properly, and you have changed the thermostat, and made sure that it has coolant, no air in the system (I sometimes drill a 1/8th inch hole in the flange to make sure there is always coolant on both sides), it may be that you have an overheating system. Not shutting off after an hour, well I don't know that vehicle well enough to know if there is a cold temperature sending unit. In any event, it could be (should be) connected to a relay somewhere that isn't doing it's job. The only way to properly diagnose and fix this is buy purchasing/obtaining a service manual. Without that, you will spends $1000's of dollars in aggravation. Get the service manual so you can properly understand the system. I have the manual for all 5 of my cars, and all 3 of my bikes, and my one motor home. I save so much money that I can afford these things, because if I didn't work on them, I don't think I could afford any of them.

I hope this has helped. Once you get a manual, you can ask more specific questions. It's not that nobody cares, it more like nobody knows, unless they have the same vehicle, etc. Help yourself by getting the service manual. I am sure people here will help you. I'm an electronic technician (amongst other things), so I can help you with schematics.

Barring this, you could have a blown head gasket, but not shutting off after an hour, check that all ground wires are grounded. I could go on guessing. Too many "if /and" to work with. Don't be discouraged, this is a great forum. :)
 

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I totally agree with Kawasakian. Anyone doing their own work should have a manual. A manual is probably the most important tool in your "toolbox". Get the factory Kawasaki manual if you can. They are the best.

What I do know is that these machines do have a tendency to get air locked. There are dozens of threads on this site that discuss how best to get the air out. We have a pretty good search engine on this forum. Click on the three vertical dots on the upper RH side of your screen and select "Advanced Search". By all means you can circle back here and post your questions if you don't understand something.
 
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