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Discussion Starter #1
i have a 79 kz 650e and i just got it back together and fired it up for the first time and it starts but the pipes on num.1 and 3 are cold. so i put new plugs in and nothing. and checked spark it looks good and the plug was wet so i know its getting gas also checked compression and it reads 80 psi with three good kicks. i dont know what else to do or check. one other thing it seams like after about ten min. of runing the pipes are hot but i think its just because its hot from runing, i dont know? any help with this would be great thanks john.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well the others are the same and there working.it seams to run ok after it warms up i just find it weird that the two that are not working are from the same coil. and the bike only has 3,700 miles
 

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Obsessed by Z1's
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Make sure your spark plug wires are in the correct sequence.

one coil fires 1 & 4, the other 2 & 3. It sounds like you may have 1 & 2 from one coil and 3 & 4 from the other.

If in doubt remove the plugs, put them in the caps and lay on the cylinder head. With the ignition on, slowly turn the crank and watch when the plug each plug fires. When each piston gets to the top of the bore, the plug should fire.
 

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The sparkplug caps can fail from heat and age. They contain a resistor to reduce the RFI (the snap and pop heard on radio's when the plugs fire).

I believe Z1 enterprises can supply you with new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the way it is now the coil on the left goes to 1&3 and the other to 2&4 and there labeled 1234 on the wires i think tomorow i will switch the coils around but keep the same order and see what happens
 

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Cylinders as sitting on the bike looking down, going from left to right are 1 2 3 4. The wires from one of the coils will go to cylinders 1 & 4. The wires from the other coil will go to cylinders 2 & 3. You've got a 50/50 chance of getting it right if you just pick a coil and run the wires to 1 & 4 then run the other to 2 & 3. Try to start it. If it starts then you have it right. If it doesn't start or at least hit like it's trying to start, switch the wires and try again.

You can test the caps if you have an ohm meter. If you have the plug wires different than mentioned above and here then it's not going to run on all 4 cylinders regardless of what else you work on or fix.
 

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It dosen't matter which port on the ignition coil you use as they are wired internally. Just make sure #1 and #4 go from one coil and #2 and #3 go from the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
update...

ok this is ware im at. i put the choke on and start up the bike, num.1 and 3 pipes are cold but are getting good spark. if i take off the pod filter and put my hand over the carb opening the idle picks up and smooths out take my hand off and it drops back down. now once i let it warm up about 10 min. of runing i take the choke off and rev it up a bit and its fine all are fireing, because if i take a plug wire off the idle drops, so i went for a ride and i cant get the motor to rev up past about 5500 to 6000 it boogs out and spudders through the num.3 carb not bad but a little. other than that it runs real strong up to that point. also the only thing that i changed on the bike is that i took off the mufflers and put baffles and turn downs on.but i allways had the two cylnders not fireing problem. anyway my thinking is that if i set the carbs up ie: set float levels than sink them. and then set timing and check points etc. i should be ok if anyone knows anything else i could do or if im not doing something in the correct order let me know as i am going to try this today after i get off work, thanks john.
 

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Do you still have 1&3 firing off the same coil? Youve received some excellent advice from very knowledgeable mechanics and have failed to address and respond To their advice, whats up? When you put the baffles in you restrited flow to an existing rich condition which will make the bike run worse and foul plugs. No amount of carb tuning will make a weak cylinder fire, nor will it correct firing order or a weak ignition system. What are the compression readings? Are the valves tight? What condition are the pilots in? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok num.1and4 are on the coil on the left of the bike sitting on it looking down.and num.2and 3 are on the other coil.sorry for not posting it before.also i went from a stock muffler to no muffler just baffles and a turn down. also the compression is 110 and i didnt check the valves however the bike only has 3,720 miles on it.
 

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Hows it running with the firing order correct as opposed to the way it was? 110 is low, is that the reading on all four? And I agree with you on the valves and milage, we'll let that slide for now. Did you take the compression tests with the throttle held wide open? Im not proficiant at 650s and dont know what the compressions should be. Hopefully "Herk" or "rstnick" will chime in to offer some help. If they dont show, PM Herk.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well it was allways like that i just got mixed up, anywho i did the test with my gauge and noly got 80 after 3 good kicks when it was cold and not chokeing it or on the throttle and thats a lowest the rest were like 85 so then i did it with a nother gauge just to see and got 110 was the lowest and the rest were about 120 ish. should i be testing it diffrently?
 

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well it was allways like that i just got mixed up, anywho i did the test with my gauge and noly got 80 after 3 good kicks when it was cold and not chokeing it or on the throttle and thats a lowest the rest were like 85 so then i did it with a nother gauge just to see and got 110 was the lowest and the rest were about 120 ish. should i be testing it diffrently?
Yes, the throttle needs to be "wide open" or the carbs off the bike,in either case, youll find that she kicks over a bit easier. Keep kicking and rotating the engine until the needle stops increasing. The compression gauge needs to be clean and able to maintain the pressure to get accurate reads. I use a small bottle with equal parts SeaFoam and motor oil to squirt into the cylinders for "wet" readings after the Ive taken the "dry" readings first. Taking compression readings in this manner will indicate whether you have a ring failure or a valve problem. If cylinder pressures increase dramatically, your rings are spent. If no significant increase in pressure is evident with the wet test, the valves or head gasket are suspect. Kick the bike in rapid succession to get accurate reads. Not to dash your hopes, but lots of low mileage bikes have had tight valves,scored cylinders and burnt or broken rings so with that in mind, prepare for the worse and hope for the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
well thanks for the help i have figured it out the timeing was off and i had some particles in the carbs mainly num. 1 and 3 so i cleaned the carbs out and set timing and also sinked them up and shes runing great now however i would like to install a filter on the fuel line but dont know witch line to put it on or can i put it on both just to be safe
 

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Be careful in buying gas filters, you want ones that are not restrictive as your gas is gravity fed, not being pushed by a fuel pump.

Don't even think of getting any glass bodied fuel filters as vibration on a bike is not a good idea with those. All it would take for a fire would be a leak and a spark.
 

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i would like to install a filter on the fuel line but dont know witch line to put it on or can i put it on both just to be safe
Both lines are not fuel lines. One is for fuel to the carbs the other is vacuum from the carb or manifold. The smaller diameter line of the two is the vacuum. You should be able to see the small line comes from the front of one of the carbs and the bigger line (fuel line) runs down between #2 and #3 carbs and connects to the fuel T.
 
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