Joined
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33 Posts
I posted this on Shadders thread yesterday and he suggested I start a new thread......
"Well after spending all day (and many times before) reading these great posts, I thought I should join and ask a couple q’s and possibly impart any knowledge I’ve acquired along my path of righteousness. OK, maybe just my path of bobberness. This is my 3rd bobber and by far the most aggressive attempt. I left the others somewhat “safe” and mostly reversible, but there’s no going back with this one. This one’s a ‘98 VN800 Classic that I've been cutting, grinding and otherwise stripping for a few months now, off and on. I’ve picked up some great pointers and ideas here and solidified several ideas / theories I had on my own. In keeping with my minimalist approach to this project I am removing everything this thing doesn’t have to have. To quickly sum my progress so far I’ve .....
-removed fenders, seat, tank, forks, triple tree clamps, all lights, turn signals, air box, side covers, all plastic storage boxes, etc.
-cut and ground a lot of the frame
-removed the front brake system, including shaved the brake and fender mounts from the fork tubes
-figured out the mounting for the solo seat
-completely disassembled the wire harness and removed unwanted items such as horn, fan, fan switch, warning lights, high/low beam switch, speedo lights, turn signal switch, front brake switch, etc.
-ordered 3.3 gal mustang tank
-removed the emissions mess (CA model)
-powder coated fork tubes, installed fork boots
-powder coated triple tree clamps
-etc., etc.
I should also mention I have never ridden this bike and I’ve heard it run all of ten seconds. It had taken a short jaunt rubber side up, when I bought it.
So here are my first couple questions......
1. Many people have eluded to completely bypassing the thermostat housing, which I would love to do. I know I can live without the tstat itself, but I have yet to come up with a clear answer as to what to do about the overflow reservoir tube. I know the tstat filler cap controls the flow of coolant into and back out of, the reservoir (overflow) tank, by way of pressure valves in the cap. Without this, the system has no way of relieving pressure when its hot, or pulling needed coolant in, when its low. What have you guys done about this?
2. Fans rarely kick in and for a short time if they do, so I have yanked mine. Like is said, minimalist. What say you about this decision? This is a bar hopper. If I want to go any further I’ll jump on my VTX1800 and load up ole saddlebags....I mean, my girlfriend!"
His reply.....
"OK I have removed the stat housing and had no problems with over heating or anything like that. I have connected the tube directly from the engine back into the top of the rad. Filling is just a fast reaction, when the coolent starts to flow out of the top of the engine quickly bang the hose on!
As you say, these thing just never run hot, but it does take a lot longer to get warm and run right off the choke!
I have just done a charity toy run, which involved an hour of travelling in first gear with no wind passing the rad, it went fine with no problems. The fan didn't kick in once, nor did i have any over heating problems. I believe Dave has run his for longer then me without having a fan connected anyway and still no problems. So strip away, but get some pictures done and start a thread so we can see this being done. We have all got threads running to help eachother with ideas and encouragement when it goes good or bad.
hope this helps
Shad"
"Well after spending all day (and many times before) reading these great posts, I thought I should join and ask a couple q’s and possibly impart any knowledge I’ve acquired along my path of righteousness. OK, maybe just my path of bobberness. This is my 3rd bobber and by far the most aggressive attempt. I left the others somewhat “safe” and mostly reversible, but there’s no going back with this one. This one’s a ‘98 VN800 Classic that I've been cutting, grinding and otherwise stripping for a few months now, off and on. I’ve picked up some great pointers and ideas here and solidified several ideas / theories I had on my own. In keeping with my minimalist approach to this project I am removing everything this thing doesn’t have to have. To quickly sum my progress so far I’ve .....
-removed fenders, seat, tank, forks, triple tree clamps, all lights, turn signals, air box, side covers, all plastic storage boxes, etc.
-cut and ground a lot of the frame
-removed the front brake system, including shaved the brake and fender mounts from the fork tubes
-figured out the mounting for the solo seat
-completely disassembled the wire harness and removed unwanted items such as horn, fan, fan switch, warning lights, high/low beam switch, speedo lights, turn signal switch, front brake switch, etc.
-ordered 3.3 gal mustang tank
-removed the emissions mess (CA model)
-powder coated fork tubes, installed fork boots
-powder coated triple tree clamps
-etc., etc.
I should also mention I have never ridden this bike and I’ve heard it run all of ten seconds. It had taken a short jaunt rubber side up, when I bought it.
So here are my first couple questions......
1. Many people have eluded to completely bypassing the thermostat housing, which I would love to do. I know I can live without the tstat itself, but I have yet to come up with a clear answer as to what to do about the overflow reservoir tube. I know the tstat filler cap controls the flow of coolant into and back out of, the reservoir (overflow) tank, by way of pressure valves in the cap. Without this, the system has no way of relieving pressure when its hot, or pulling needed coolant in, when its low. What have you guys done about this?
2. Fans rarely kick in and for a short time if they do, so I have yanked mine. Like is said, minimalist. What say you about this decision? This is a bar hopper. If I want to go any further I’ll jump on my VTX1800 and load up ole saddlebags....I mean, my girlfriend!"
His reply.....
"OK I have removed the stat housing and had no problems with over heating or anything like that. I have connected the tube directly from the engine back into the top of the rad. Filling is just a fast reaction, when the coolent starts to flow out of the top of the engine quickly bang the hose on!
As you say, these thing just never run hot, but it does take a lot longer to get warm and run right off the choke!
I have just done a charity toy run, which involved an hour of travelling in first gear with no wind passing the rad, it went fine with no problems. The fan didn't kick in once, nor did i have any over heating problems. I believe Dave has run his for longer then me without having a fan connected anyway and still no problems. So strip away, but get some pictures done and start a thread so we can see this being done. We have all got threads running to help eachother with ideas and encouragement when it goes good or bad.
hope this helps
Shad"