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Debaffling Vulcan 900 Exhaust

43K views 63 replies 31 participants last post by  Kelfam4  
#1 ·
I have seen a few bikes on here that are "debaffled" and I am wondering what it sounds like. I asked the mechanic at the dealership I got my 2008 Vulcan 900 Custom from if it was ok to do and he said not to do it cuz it would be "way to loud". I would rather do something like that than spend hundreds of dollars on an after market exhaust. Can someone tell me if it super loud or does it sound good? Also, do you have to take it and get it retuned after you debaffle it? Please advise. Thanks all.

If you want to contact me directly please email me at stylin113@yahoo.com
 
#53 ·
The government IS going to start clamping down on smog regulations (already happened in 2 counties in AZ and was repealed, they've been pushing for it in CA, it's just a matter of time everywhere).
Nothing like Government to step up, shut down a whole industry, then wonder why the economy is in the tank. Then again, it's not like we haven't warned folks for years that them ultra loud, ****emoff pipes were going to get everything outlawed for all of us.

Oh well, won't affect them anyways, stinkin posers.
 
#54 ·
Here's another reason to reconsider debaffling:

The stock mufflers for the 900 are $600each for the assembly. Yes... $1200 for the system, not including the heat shields and hardware.
must be cali's price? i can get them from my dealer for $510 and change.

i know thats still expensive, but thats almost 2 bills!!
 
#58 ·
If you cut the baffles out then your bike will register around 95 decibles at idle and around 120 decibles revving.

It's kind of loud, but I just pop in my ear plugs when I'm taking long trips.

To give you a comparison on how loud that is keep in mind that a lawnmower registers around 90 decibles, a jet engine registers around 120 decibles and gun shots are around 140-150 decibles.

Well I should add a little more insight so you know the power of sound. You see that I said the debaffled pipes would be around 95 decibles at idle and 120 decibles while revving. So, you say thats about 30 decibles difference, right?

Well, it's not just a number. Hearing loss comes from anything over 85 decibles and your damage depends on how loud something is and the length of exposure.

Decibles are a metric measurement. So, things multiply by tens. If you have something at 90db and another sounds at 120db then keep in mind that the 120db sound is 1,000 times more powerful(louder) than the sound that is 90db.

Ear plugs are recommended :)
What kind of measuring device did you use? It's important to note that the average "Radio Shack" type meter measures "RMS" and "PEAK".. RMS being an "average level" and Peak being.. well, peaks. It is NOT rated to approximate the human ear.
It's also important to note that it depends on the environment, the road surface, ambient noise (I doubt that the 25 foot measurement was taken indoors, with no ambient sound, and a mix of hard and soft surfaces, etc... etc..) and the testing microphone used. What we're talking about here is written as dB/spl.. decibels of sound pressure level.. "volume", if you like.
That being said.... it IS still an idea of what the noise level truly is.
Using the Cirrus CR 262 meter (borrowed, no I don't own a $1500 sound level meter, lol), with only the screens drilled out of the exhaust, I got a maximum sound pressure level of 109 dB/spl. That reading is NOT "accurate" as it was taken on the side of the street, in a completely uncontrolled environment, approximately 4 feet from the exhaust, in line with the pipe.. where nobody's ear is EVER going to be. However, it's a guideline.
And what Sam said is true.. any sustained noise over 85/90 dB/spl is potentially ear damaging. FFH or earplugs (or both) recommended, however make sure you can still hear a bit of what's going on around you!
If your ears ring, or feel "fuzzy" or "tired" at the end of a ride.. you need protection, you're hurting your ears, and they DON'T RECOVER. once the hairs inside your ear canal are damaged, they're done. They don't grow back.

The "threshold of pain" as described by audio guys is 140dB/spl.. and it's very unpleasant even getting close to that level unprotected.

One last thought.. according to that log scale that was mentioned, once you hit 100dB/spl, it then takes exactly twice as much energy to gain 10 dB.
For example, a 100 watt stereo making 100dB would have to be increased to 200 watts to get 110dB, to 400 watts to get 120dB, and to 800 watts to get 130db. All things considered, I'm not sure there's much for motorcycles that can create 140dB/spl- or I dang sure HOPE there aren't!
 
#61 ·
What kind of measuring device did you use? It's important to note that the average "Radio Shack" type meter measures "RMS" and "PEAK".. RMS being an "average level" and Peak being.. well, peaks. It is NOT rated to approximate the human ear.
If you read the instructions with the Radio Shack meter, you'll see that they are not calibrated, and that readings can vary by as much as 10db from one meter to the next.
The RS meter is intended to be used for sound leveling... where the same meter is being used at various points in a room or arena to adjust the balance of the sound system, and for that it works.... but just because the RS meter says your pipes are at 90db doesn't mean they're at 90db... they could be anywhere from 80 to 100 depending on how far off and in which direction your meter is.

Buddy found that out when he was fighting a ticket for his pipes... and unless the cops are using a $30,000 meter, their readings are not admissible in court.