I painted my bike myself....it looked awsome for about 2 weeks. The cover was on and it got really hot out. When I uncovered it, most of the clearcoat came off.....the sun made it real tacky for some reason. I asked a friend about it who has a body shop and he was confused as to why it did that. He told me that if I stripped the paint, he would give me a professional paint job for next to nothing as a favor. I used regular paint stripper on the gas tank. I went to an automotive paint distributor and asked for special stripper for the plastics. I used it and some black started to some off with the paint so I stopped right there and plan on dropping the pieces off at the body shop tomorrow. I am just wondering if anyone knows if kawasaki parts come from the factory with black primer on them or did this stripper for plastics screw up my plastics?
Does anyone know if Kawasaki uses black primer?
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Was it urethane clear coat or a spray bomb canned clear? Did your clear have a catalyst (harrdner) in it? Was it mixed to the correct ratio? Was the clear coat totaly cleared? Even though your paint was dry to the touch, Chances are you paint was not cured. Solvent will have to escapes for some time to come. This is why you should not wax anything you have painted for about a month or so. By doing so you run the risk of trapping solven in causing a condition called solvent poping. (Little white bubbles in the Paint)
I would not recomend using any chemical stripper on any plastic parts. Chemical srtipper can sometimes distort and warp the plastic. When I paint any plastic I either DA or wet sand the surfaces to be painted. It may be a little more time consuming but you will have to sand if you use a stripper anyway. Plus you know you will not have a chemical reaction with the plastic. If your surface is in poor condition and you sand through to plastic, make sure the painter is applying plastic adhesion promoter prior to applying primer or paint. Don't forget to add a flex agent in the primer and paint on all plastic parts.
I would not recomend using any chemical stripper on any plastic parts. Chemical srtipper can sometimes distort and warp the plastic. When I paint any plastic I either DA or wet sand the surfaces to be painted. It may be a little more time consuming but you will have to sand if you use a stripper anyway. Plus you know you will not have a chemical reaction with the plastic. If your surface is in poor condition and you sand through to plastic, make sure the painter is applying plastic adhesion promoter prior to applying primer or paint. Don't forget to add a flex agent in the primer and paint on all plastic parts.
Thanks for the advice...I pretty much used the exact same things that TrashMonkey used to paint his bike (only I used orange instead of yellow). For some reason the clear coat just did not want to cure. It got tacky when it got hot out. As for the stripper meant for plastics....I would NOT recommend it to others. It raises the paint and some of the plastic creating a rough bumpy surface. It will get the paint off but leave you hours of sanding to get a smooth paintable surface again. I started sanding around 10:30PM and its now 4AM. I still have a side piece to do and have to do the upper cowling with a finer grit. (I spent 2 hours on the upper cowl alone so far and probably have at least one more to go.) It's a lot of tedious, long, boring work, but hopefully the end result will be worth it and the fact that I am doing all the prep work will save $$$$. Since I am having it professionaly done this time, I think im going to go with lime green this time rather than orange pearl although I did like the orange. I'll post pics when I get all the parts back and put back on.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!