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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i rode yesterday and this morning i went out to my truck to unload my 2003 bayou 250 and there was some kind of oil dripping down the frame.

i found that it is coming from a bustedlhose coming from the rear drum brake. i have noticed that the rear brakes have been gettin worse and worse...

here is a pic of where the hose comes into the drum housing


here is the hose it is busted all along it. it is behind the block. where does the hose go? i lost it when it went over the gas tank.
 

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That line is the mechanical drum brake vent hose. There should not be any greasy oily stuff coming out of that line. Also, it shouldn't be split in the first place, it's what vents fresh air to the brakes.

I suspect that your outboard oil seal Kawasaki part number 92049-1236 has failed allowing your rearend gear oil to fill your drum at least partially. You need to check your gear lube (I suspect that it is dangerously low) and pull your drum off. You will also need to replace the vent hose. Standard automotive vacuum hose will work well. I believe that 7/32 vacuum tubing is the proper size but of course the best way is to cut a small piece and compare at the store to ensure you get the right size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thank you for the advice. ok i looked at it again.... and the hose that is actually broken and leaking oil, is this one



the differential oil is a little low, but not truely dangerous. yet...

also, the actually brake vent line was torn and theres a bunch of $hit in the drum (sand and a thin layer of gerogia clay). should i clean off the shoes with greased lightning or somthin?

thanks guys
 

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Ok, the bottom one (the one you're pointing towards in the third picture) is the differential ventline. It's not nearly as serious that it's split and leaking an oily substance as it would be if the brake vent was. There's only about a quart of gear oil in the rear end and the drum could potentially hold all of that. If it were the drum brake vent leaking it, it would be a much more severe situation.

You can use greased lightning or kerosene or practically anything other than brakleen or carburetor cleaner to clean out the drum.

While you have the hub off, grab the axle and see how the bearing is doing. The shaft should be able to move axially(away from and towards the differential) but not radially (forward and backward or front to back). If it does, you need to replace the bearing out at that end. My bayou had mud in the drum when I bought it and the outer bearing was also bad.

Once you have the bearing checked out either OK or replaced, clean the drum out real well and lube all of the sliding pieces of metal (the cam, shoe pivot, and springs) with white lithium grease from a spray can.

Once the shoes are moving nice and free rub the seal on the drum and the sealing surface on the backing plate with heavy grease. I prefer Lucas Red'n'tacky #2 for maintaining seals. It has anti-sieze additives and good water resistance (at least better than old wheel bearing grease). It's also not clay based so it won't dry out and eat anything up later on. Best part is, it's easily found at most autoparts stores and reasonably priced.

Once the hub is back on and tightened back down, remove the drum brake ventline and blow compressed air through it to ensure that it's not clogged with mud at the other end (or split anywhere up it's length) and the air will help you pinpoint it's eventual location which I'm sure is just under the plastic in front of the handlebars. Once you know where the ventlines run to, you can replace the rear final drive ventline with some suitable vacuum hose. Also, because of the risk of dirt contamination in the rear end, drain the fluid and replace it with 80-90w gear oil after you're done with the vent lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks man,
its sounds good, well at least better than oil in the drum haha.

i grabbed the shaft and the absolute only movement i could get is a little rotation. no movment on the x or y axis. is that ok that it doesnt move at all?
 

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Absolutely perfect. Usually there is some movement in and out from spline wear and rear final drive spacing but not necessarily always. Just cut a good section of that split tubing out and go to the autoparts store.

Purchase if you don't have these already;
#1 a spray can of lithium grease
#2 some good heavy grease
#3 a bottle of 80-90w gear oil
#4 some greased lightning
#5 about 7 ft of vacuum tubing (just to be on the safe side)
#6 a few zipties

Once you have everything clean and lubed you should be ready to go just keep an eye on the vent tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
prairie,
after riding all day yesterday, i went out to check somthing, and found the rear diff hose has been dripping oil all over my tranny. im pretty sure it has only been doing it since i stopped and parked it bc the diff oil level is only about 1cm below the threads. could i have overfilled it?
 

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Your fill port is much high up on the top of your differential housing than mine is. My fill port is directly off of the back of the diff housing so I might be able to put a half a quart in my rear end.

How far up did you run the vent hose? Back up to the back of the gas tank? I'm not really sure what to tell you about it dumping gear oil out of the top except that if you were doing a LOT of high speed riding especially if you were leaned off to the right side pushing the gear oil up the vent tube.
 

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prairie,
after riding all day yesterday, i went out to check somthing, and found the rear diff hose has been dripping oil all over my tranny. im pretty sure it has only been doing it since i stopped and parked it bc the diff oil level is only about 1cm below the threads. could i have overfilled it?
How are you checking the oil? Unlike the majority of diffs you don't fill these until the bottom of the fill hole. On the diff housing there is a bolt that is slightly below the middle of the diff, it is by itself and doesn't hold anything in. That is your fill bolt. It is bolt #130 in the diagram below. You have to fill it up till fluid drips from that hole.



It shouldn't take more than 1/4qt. to fill the differential. This is probably why you still have leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
prairie,
i ran the hose up to the gas tank and then aimed it down near the airbox. so theres plenty of room for it to expand.

senor giggles,
the page u posted wont show up on my freakin pc. is it the same #130 as in this link? (sorry u have to enter the stuff, 2003 bayou 250)
Babbitts Sports Center | Arctic Cat OEM Parts | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Honda OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Polaris OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Ski-Doo OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts

i definatly didnt know that, and i have been running a BUNCH of oil in it (it took over a qt to get it up to the threads). will it hurt anything? when i drained it before there were no metal shavings and the oil looked good.
 

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prairie,
i ran the hose up to the gas tank and then aimed it down near the airbox. so theres plenty of room for it to expand.

senor giggles,
the page u posted wont show up on my freakin pc. is it the same #130 as in this link? (sorry u have to enter the stuff, 2003 bayou 250)
Babbitts Sports Center | Arctic Cat OEM Parts | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Honda OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Polaris OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Ski-Doo OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts

i definatly didnt know that, and i have been running a BUNCH of oil in it (it took over a qt to get it up to the threads). will it hurt anything? when i drained it before there were no metal shavings and the oil looked good.
I fixed the link into a pic. Sorry about that.

Overfilling it shouldn't hurt anything, just drain it down to that level and you should be good to go.
 
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