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Hi there,
I dropped my bike off today at the dealer to do the first initial 1,000km service.

The bike is a 2018/2019 Ninja 650L and I was told it would be done in 2-3 hours(9am Drop off-12pm Pickup). When I came back they said another 10 minutes or so until 20 minutes later the dealership owner came and told me the service is all completed but the engine light has come on the display for some reason and they will need another hour or two to look into it, then the person who was working on the bike came over and told me that they did not plug in the air filter when they started the bike, prompting the Engine light to be shown and that they would need to get in contact with Kawasaki Tech to resolve the issue with suggestions of it will go on it's own, drive for 5 min above 40km/h stop and turn the bike off and do another 5 min of 40km/h repeated for 3 times and then mentioning something to do with connecting the laptop to it and their firmware/software being outdated for the bike.

After all this the time is now 5pm, 30 minutes before close and they let me know they could not get rid of the engine light but after they drove it for an hour (having to put fuel in it, mind you I was not expecting it to be driven for an hour) or so it didn't go into any sort of limp mode and didn't have an overall effect on the bike and want me to return on Friday when they will have the new firmware/software to diagnose it I assume.


They still tried to charge me full servicing price + the cost of fuel that went in, I obviously refused to pay anything until the bike was fixed.

I was basically just wondering if there is anything I can actually do at home that could remove the Engine light?
Or do I need to go back and hope they can fix it..
 

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If you mess with it now, you are giving the dealer a perfect excuse to blame you. If I were you I would return it to the dealer until they fix it and if they insist on over-charging you, then file a complaint with Kawasaki Customer Service.
 

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They have to use the kawasaki software (KDS) and the KDS adapter. The adapter interface and the software are proprietary and are updated all the time. The problem is...."MOST" dealer techs do not update it. They leave that to the "IT" department (which is nonexistent in most dealerships), thus when they hook up, it won't read newer machines properly. Even when it does, it's pretty poor-about all it does is give you an "idea" at which end of the bike the problem lies in.....UNLESS....the tech in question knows exactly what each sensor is SUPPOSED to read under normal circumstances. It is a POOR diagnostic software and kawasaki knows it-it is outdated. The new stuff is OBD which again will need updating often to stay on top of the new models. I wish they were ALL OBD, much easier (for me) to figure out.


Then the update process, if it doesn't go perfect, it can give you issues (been there and done that many times). They say electronic stuff is the "way to go"-because it's supposedly faster and more accurate, however in my experience, the only thing faster about it is the communication between the bike and the interface. You hook up, find out KDS needs an update. Download update (10 min). Install update (up to 30 min). Try it, windows needs an update (HOURS in some cases). After it restarts 4011-teen times, then it needs and update to an update. Another few minutes or more. Finally no more windows updates. Wait there's a patch for the last update. This stuff happens constantly and "supposedly" someone else in the dealership is supposed to stay on top of it, but there's never time or in some cases that person don't know how to do it, so they gotta call the hotline and let Mark do it remotely. So you can easily have a couple hours worth of updating before it will even connect to do any sort of diagnosis. Same stuff in the automotive world but at least in cars, OBD II is OBD II and the terminology is mostly universal. Bikes? Every manufacturer has their own terminology, which differs slightly than cars, which obviously throws a big monkey wrench into the spokes so to speak. I absolutely despise the way stuff is going, I can have a bank of four carbs off, cleaned, and back on, tuned, sync'd, and running perfect in less time than it takes to just get KDS (or YDIS, etc) to just connect.


So yes, I can see this being a valid issue. However, if they know they left the sensor off, the "code" should auto-clear with a drive cycle or two. It may be stored, but if there is no current fault, the light "should" go out.
 
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