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i Have Recently Upgraded By 125 Scooter For A Lovely Eliminator Bn125 On A 57 Plate But I Have Got A Problem Which Is Rather Concerning At Times Engine Cuts Out And Will Not Throttle Up Properly Giving A Very Jerky Movement It Almost Sounds As If It Is Starved Of Fuel.

Throttle Is Unresponsive At First And Then Will Go Into High Revs And Dies Down Again After About 10 Mins Of This It All Comes Back On And Rides Fine For About 15 Mins Or So And Then The Same Thing Happens. I Have Cleaned The Carb, Replaced All Fuel Lines And Battery And Sparks.

The Bike Still Has Power As Lights Start And Starter Motor Will Kick In.

I Am Going To Post A Video I Recorded If Anyone Can Help Me I Would Be Grateful As I Am New To The World Of Bikes And I Have Yet To Fully Enjoy It.
 

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Yes And I Cleared The Tank As Well Flushed It Out Still The Same Problem. I Wonder Could It Be Electrical Rather Than Mechanical As It Is Itermittent Problem Not Constant?
 

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Anythings possible but with the lugging down then high revs it sounds more fuel/air related to me. Whats the history on this engine as far as work being done to it? Is this a new problem on an engine that was running normal up until this happened?
 

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It Has Had One Previous Owner No M.o.t Yet As Less Than 3 Yrs Old But Was Fully Serviced Before Bought It And When Problem Started Had Fuel Lines Replaced Carb Cleaned And New Throttle Cable Attached. I Just Got Email This Morning Saying Guy Thinks It Is The Solunoids> And Electrical Loom That Have Caused Issue? Do You Think It Could Be That?
 

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Horray Problem Solved It Was The Electrical Relay!!! Was An Ac/dc Issue New Relay On Bikes Working Like A Dream Smooth Engine No Stutter Done 30 Miles Today No Probs!!
 

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I know this post was a long time ago and you might not still be watching but I have the exact same problem on my eliminator. What relay are you referring to? And what do you mean by ac/dc problem?

Cheers
 

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Anythings possible but with the lugging down then high revs it sounds more fuel/air related to me. Whats the history on this engine as far as work being done to it? Is this a new problem on an engine that was running normal up until this happened?
Horray Problem Solved It Was The Electrical Relay!!! Was An Ac/dc Issue New Relay On Bikes Working Like A Dream Smooth Engine No Stutter Done 30 Miles Today No Probs!!
can you elaborate? I’m having similar issues. Idles fine but lags when accelerating
 

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You are replying to a post that is 11 years old so Stargate is unlikely to respond.

The BN125 only has two relays, one for the turn signals which should have no effect on the engine. So Defiant122 must have replaced the other relay which is part number 27002-1086 and is still available from your dealer.
 

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I wonder if we're at cross purposes here as no Relay on the BN has anything to do with AC/DC specifically, However there is a Diode part number 49018-1052 which could be mistaken by an untrained eye as being a Relay, And this little fella is part of the Ignition system and converts AC to DC for charging the Cap.
If this was playing up and not attaining the converted voltage of 225vdc it might be an issue..
Just a thought Guys :unsure:
 

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I also thought it odd and confusing that Defiant mentioned relay as problem and then talked about AC/DC issues that are normally the work of the rectifier. But without knowing the function of the relay and since he insisted it was the relay, I posted the part number. Dang-it, now I have to go see what this relay does. :unsure:
 

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The relay in question is the starter relay that in turn triggers the starter solenoid circuit once the start button is pressed. The relay gets its power only if the safety interlocks indicate you are good to go. It is pretty hard to imagine this relay causing the problems of throttle lag. This sounds more like carburetion
 

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I've had a bike with a compromised Ignition system in that the coil wasn't generating enough umph under hard acceleration but was fine at idle and low down, If you Babied it there appeared nowt wrong but gave it some beans and it held back big time, Took a while to nail that one down and that was through substitution...
 

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I also thought it odd and confusing that Defiant mentioned relay as problem and then talked about AC/DC issues that are normally the work of the rectifier. But without knowing the function of the relay and since he insisted it was the relay, I posted the part number. Dang-it, now I have to go see what this relay does. :unsure:
I ordered the relay but let me know what you find out. I can get the diode cheap on eBay and will try that route. I’m just wondering if at wide open throttle if the spark is getting enough juice to ignite the gas????


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I've had a bike with a compromised Ignition system in that the coil wasn't generating enough umph under hard acceleration but was fine at idle and low down, If you Babied it there appeared nowt wrong but gave it some beans and it held back big time, Took a while to nail that one down and that was through substitution...
I can see why that took a while to figure out. Another issue could be if the spark advance within the CDI has failed.
The cheapest option (if one is handy with tools) is to make sure the carb is clean and properly tuned. Make sure air filter is clean and maybe dump the gas and replace with high octane ethanol-free gasoline.
 

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I can see why that took a while to figure out. Another issue could be if the spark advance within the CDI has failed.
The cheapest option (if one is handy with tools) is to make sure the carb is clean and properly tuned. Make sure air filter is clean and maybe dump the gas and replace with high octane ethanol-free gasoline.
Yes. I’ve rebuilt and cleaned the carb as well as cleaned the gas tank and just out fresh ethanol free gas in. I’ll start replacing the relay first then the diode then the CDI. See what happens


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Just a word of advice.

Sometimes a $30 shop manual can save you hundreds of dollars in cost of parts that don't need to be replaced. The manual will show you how components can be tested to show if they are faulty. Relays and diodes are easily checked.

A CDI is a very costly item and there are some checks that can be performed on these as well, but these are not necessarily conclusive, unless the tests fail. In other words a CDI might test good and still be bad, but if it tests bad, it needs to be replaced. The reason for this is that there is only so much that a basic multimeter can check and the CDI is a very complicated device. In an ideal world you would find a buddy with the same bike and swap CDI units to see if that fixes the problem.

I would hold off on the CDI and replace as a last resort. There is also a crank sensor that could be checked and don't forget what Greenisbest said about the ignition coil.
 

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Just a word of advice.

Sometimes a $30 shop manual can save you hundreds of dollars in cost of parts that don't need to be replaced. The manual will show you how components can be tested to show if they are faulty. Relays and diodes are easily checked.

A CDI is a very costly item and there are some checks that can be performed on these as well, but these are not necessarily conclusive, unless the tests fail. In other words a CDI might test good and still be bad, but if it tests bad, it needs to be replaced. The reason for this is that there is only so much that a basic multimeter can check and the CDI is a very complicated device. In an ideal world you would find a buddy with the same bike and swap CDI units to see if that fixes the problem.

I would hold off on the CDI and replace as a last resort. There is also a crank sensor that could be checked and don't forget what Greenisbest said about the ignition coil.
I have a digital copy of the service manual and use it quite often. CDI will be last option. Replacing the cheapest things first and will just go down the line. I’ll eventually give in and just take it to a shop. Lol


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Though it may seem confusing to those new to motorcycles I totally agree with WFO-KZ. If it tests bad it is bad, if it tests good, maybe yes maybe no. So often a customer would blame the CDI unit yet it was extremely rare that it was actually the problem. Eliminate every other possibility before blaming the CDI.
 
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