i have an ex250 and if i start it up and let it warm up, it stalls sometimes. It usually stalls if im sitting at a light and rev the engine up, when it goes to settle back down to an idle, it just drops all the way to 0rpms and stalls. the choke is all the way off and the fuel tank is on. I plan on pulling the plug and checking for rich or lean operation. The bike has less than 2000 miles on it. The other thing i would like to do is adjust the choke and throttle cables, but i dont know exactly how to do it properly. If anyone can either give me step by step instructions or direct me to a website which shows you how to do it, i would appreciate it. also, if anyone has any other ideas as to what actions i should take, please let me know.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Ask ZX-2R. He's the GOD of the 250. lmao! good luck.
Peter
Peter
CABLES
Set your throttle to have about 2-3mm (0.08-0.12") of play in it, same with the choke cable. Your Idle RPM is up to you, but try it at about 1,300 RPM and see how you like it. Some people will adjust it down to 1,000RPM for inspections because they test by contaminants in Ubic ft per minute or something like that ...some people like 1,500RPM an dyou will find track racing guys setting the RPM's at 3,000RPM, which would be way more thanyou would need for the street. the throttle(idle adjustment screw) has a little knob adjustment on the right side of the bike. twist it just a little like a quarter turn and then twist the throtle and let go of it to see if the rpm's are now just right or to high. If you don't have new plugs get some and make sure that they are the sme ones that you have, don't go switching brands or heat ranges till AFTER you break the bike in. Then take the old plugs and soak them in white vinegar overnight to clean them and blow them dry...they should still be good...DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN your Plugs when you put them back in...just snug them into place...steel plugs in an aluminum head and you can strip tehm very easy...when you start them put just a little antiseize compound on the threads or a little oil on them and ALWAYS start them by hand, NEVER with a wrench. your choke cable should not need adjusting unless ther is NO play in the choke lever on the handle bars...if ther is any play it is enough. IF ther isn't any play then follow the cable down, and loosen the cable and allow them to get closer together before you tighten the locking nut...this will allow more play on the lever on the handlebars. The most important thing that anybody can do when they have a bike is to log EVERYTHING into one log book. Keep very accurate logs. put it on the computer, but also print it out an dhave it in a notebook so that shold it ever occur you can take the notebook in to a service manager/mechanic and show him documentation backing up your statement and perhaps he can seee something/a trend and go straiht to the problem to fix it...this cannot be overstressed or over addressed. Even lubbing your chain, and not only with what but log in when you bought the chain lube what brand but even the price and date. When it comes to the 5000 mile checkup take your owners manual and make sure that EVERYTHING that is in it is covered and checked off by the mechanic. IF you don't have an owners manual (should have been under theseat or with your paperwork when you bought it then order one from BEARTOOTH KAWASAKI our forum sponsor and you will get the 10% discount and you can find out all of the stuff that you just asked. I would also order the Maintenance Manual...it is cheap and it shows you in larger pictures and even what to turn and how to do things in a very detailed manner...
call Beartooth at 1-800-556-3098, and order the Owners Manual and the Maintenance Manual
P.S. Thanks, Peter, for the compliment...I'm not really an expert, and i'm only an ANGELL by name! ZX-2R
Set your throttle to have about 2-3mm (0.08-0.12") of play in it, same with the choke cable. Your Idle RPM is up to you, but try it at about 1,300 RPM and see how you like it. Some people will adjust it down to 1,000RPM for inspections because they test by contaminants in Ubic ft per minute or something like that ...some people like 1,500RPM an dyou will find track racing guys setting the RPM's at 3,000RPM, which would be way more thanyou would need for the street. the throttle(idle adjustment screw) has a little knob adjustment on the right side of the bike. twist it just a little like a quarter turn and then twist the throtle and let go of it to see if the rpm's are now just right or to high. If you don't have new plugs get some and make sure that they are the sme ones that you have, don't go switching brands or heat ranges till AFTER you break the bike in. Then take the old plugs and soak them in white vinegar overnight to clean them and blow them dry...they should still be good...DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN your Plugs when you put them back in...just snug them into place...steel plugs in an aluminum head and you can strip tehm very easy...when you start them put just a little antiseize compound on the threads or a little oil on them and ALWAYS start them by hand, NEVER with a wrench. your choke cable should not need adjusting unless ther is NO play in the choke lever on the handle bars...if ther is any play it is enough. IF ther isn't any play then follow the cable down, and loosen the cable and allow them to get closer together before you tighten the locking nut...this will allow more play on the lever on the handlebars. The most important thing that anybody can do when they have a bike is to log EVERYTHING into one log book. Keep very accurate logs. put it on the computer, but also print it out an dhave it in a notebook so that shold it ever occur you can take the notebook in to a service manager/mechanic and show him documentation backing up your statement and perhaps he can seee something/a trend and go straiht to the problem to fix it...this cannot be overstressed or over addressed. Even lubbing your chain, and not only with what but log in when you bought the chain lube what brand but even the price and date. When it comes to the 5000 mile checkup take your owners manual and make sure that EVERYTHING that is in it is covered and checked off by the mechanic. IF you don't have an owners manual (should have been under theseat or with your paperwork when you bought it then order one from BEARTOOTH KAWASAKI our forum sponsor and you will get the 10% discount and you can find out all of the stuff that you just asked. I would also order the Maintenance Manual...it is cheap and it shows you in larger pictures and even what to turn and how to do things in a very detailed manner...
call Beartooth at 1-800-556-3098, and order the Owners Manual and the Maintenance Manual
P.S. Thanks, Peter, for the compliment...I'm not really an expert, and i'm only an ANGELL by name! ZX-2R
Yeah, idle speed is the first thing that comes to mind for me. Perhaps it's too low. Even if that's not the problem, bumping it up can keep you from stalling. What's your idle speed now?
Curt
Curt
IDLE
Still waiting for an answer...WE love a problem or situation, and trying to solve them...we still need your feedback...
Still waiting for an answer...WE love a problem or situation, and trying to solve them...we still need your feedback...
COld start dying
Mine does the same thing. When the bike is cold it likes to die. set the choke to about 1/4 on. Let the bike warm up for a bit. Do a few slow accelerations (while in nutral). When your stopped gently put on the throttle up a few thousand rpm, then let it drop. When you take off from a light gently roll on the throttle, otherwise you will flood the engine and kill it. When your bike is finally warmed up, turn the choke off and drive any way you wish
-teslas
Mine does the same thing. When the bike is cold it likes to die. set the choke to about 1/4 on. Let the bike warm up for a bit. Do a few slow accelerations (while in nutral). When your stopped gently put on the throttle up a few thousand rpm, then let it drop. When you take off from a light gently roll on the throttle, otherwise you will flood the engine and kill it. When your bike is finally warmed up, turn the choke off and drive any way you wish
-teslas
Several things
As the weather gets colder the oil is thicker or more viscous...it's harder to move...secondly, change your plugs and lastly clean or change out your air filter. If this doesn't fix yor problem then I owe you a cup of coffee, and we'll set and chat about it while we drink it...you know, curt could be right about your idle being set to low...you may want to increase it just a tad...When newbies are trying to larn to ride I recommend raising the idle so that they don't stall the bike allof the time.....in racing you will find the racers doing the same thing only they really raise it...something you will learn about only on the track and not from me...
As the weather gets colder the oil is thicker or more viscous...it's harder to move...secondly, change your plugs and lastly clean or change out your air filter. If this doesn't fix yor problem then I owe you a cup of coffee, and we'll set and chat about it while we drink it...you know, curt could be right about your idle being set to low...you may want to increase it just a tad...When newbies are trying to larn to ride I recommend raising the idle so that they don't stall the bike allof the time.....in racing you will find the racers doing the same thing only they really raise it...something you will learn about only on the track and not from me...
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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