I was wondering what I would have to do if I wanted to replace the stock dual exhausts on my 2004 500r with a "throatier" single exhaust. I don;t like the looks of the dual exhaust and I don't like the sound even more. I am new to the motorcycle world so please excuse me if this a dumb question. Thanks!!!
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You can install a full system, jardine makes one, so does Vance & hines, Yoshi makes one I believe, muzzy too.
When you do a full exhaust I suggest doing K&N air pods. You can do a stage 3 rejetting then, and have yourself a much meaner sounding bike, and faster too.
I actually have a jardine header (D&D makes it I've been told) and a V&H SSR2 muffler for a buell, and that was very weird to make it all work, but it sounds super sweet and very very throaty. I set car alarms off for miles and still have a nice deep smooth sound.
When you do a full exhaust I suggest doing K&N air pods. You can do a stage 3 rejetting then, and have yourself a much meaner sounding bike, and faster too.
I actually have a jardine header (D&D makes it I've been told) and a V&H SSR2 muffler for a buell, and that was very weird to make it all work, but it sounds super sweet and very very throaty. I set car alarms off for miles and still have a nice deep smooth sound.
Can you explain how you made this work? I've been thinking about changing the muffler and then jetting, but I'm new to bike mods and would like to see some pictures of your bike with explaination on how to do it. From the pictures in your sig you modded your bike's muffler to one muffler, is that better? Could it have been two mufflers? Please explain what would be the difference, if any that you know of. Does it look stupid that way or is it unpopular to do something like that? What could I expect to pay if I have bike shop do it? Thanks.
dead weight
Besides two heavy mufflers hanging off of yor bike, the new ones weigh a LOT less than even one of your stock ones! Getting the carbs adjusted is something that Ildd leave to Freakinout to discuss with you...a full custom exhaust system comes complete with instructions...should you need to refer to them (not mechanically inclined. You can get some really loud pipes, to hard on the ears and even the neighbors inside their house will complain, but ther eare some great cans/mufflers out there as well. Take before and after shots...so that yo can keep them in your book of pictures...it's nice to see the before and after pics...
Besides two heavy mufflers hanging off of yor bike, the new ones weigh a LOT less than even one of your stock ones! Getting the carbs adjusted is something that Ildd leave to Freakinout to discuss with you...a full custom exhaust system comes complete with instructions...should you need to refer to them (not mechanically inclined. You can get some really loud pipes, to hard on the ears and even the neighbors inside their house will complain, but ther eare some great cans/mufflers out there as well. Take before and after shots...so that yo can keep them in your book of pictures...it's nice to see the before and after pics...
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Installing a full exhaust system is as easy as pie. Unbolt old one, bolt on new one. All the aftermarket exhausts use bigger pipes and have a single sided exhaust compared to the dual exhaust. Weight is a huge factor in this, it makes the bike so much more agile.Imposter said:Can you explain how you made this work? I've been thinking about changing the muffler and then jetting, but I'm new to bike mods and would like to see some pictures of your bike with explaination on how to do it. From the pictures in your sig you modded your bike's muffler to one muffler, is that better? Could it have been two mufflers? Please explain what would be the difference, if any that you know of. Does it look stupid that way or is it unpopular to do something like that? What could I expect to pay if I have bike shop do it? Thanks.
To get the performance out of the new pipes you'll have to rejet the carbs either stage 1 or stage 3, depending on if you do K&N air filters or stick with the stock air box. Either way its about the same amount of work on the carbs. Its pretty easy, installed adjustable needles, new jets, and then test. Testing and readjusting them is the hard part, very time/labor intensive. The shops are gonna charge you out the wazzooo to do it, unless you just have a great shop there that knows there stuff and can get it done in a few hours.
Thanks for the reply, two other questions... How does it affect the balance of the bike, is it at all noticeable, since the bike come with dual mufflers I suspect the balance would feel a bit different, probably not much... am I right about this, can the balance be felt at all or is it negligable? Secondly, what kind of performance boost can I expect from this kind of mod?
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The balance 'feel' of the bike is greatly improved, the new exhausts weights so little that you can't even tell which side has it. it flicks into turns much quicker and is easier to balance at low speeds. The performance boost should give you a little more low end torque and a lot more at the top end. You'll start pulling away at 80+ waaaay better than before. Midrange there is an increase, but not all that noticeable.Imposter said:Thanks for the reply, two other questions... How does it affect the balance of the bike, is it at all noticeable, since the bike come with dual mufflers I suspect the balance would feel a bit different, probably not much... am I right about this, can the balance be felt at all or is it negligable? Secondly, what kind of performance boost can I expect from this kind of mod?
BALANCE & BOOST
Seems the FORUM is mod Happy??? NOT AT ALL! The newest bikes offered by the manufactures have 4-2-1 with titanium or aluminum or stainless cans/canisters/muffler! Somewhere there must be some happy steel producing people that make pipes cheaper than the newer light-weight pipes. Weigh someone elses, or better yet one of the guys on the web can probably tell you to the closest pound what diffference is. Wheels and tires also have some differences...major in some cases...not just in wieght but in Moment of inertia as in gyroscopic effect/like a spinning top. IF you decide that you want to sacrifice top-end (say 140 on a 500R/with mods) then you can also change the gear ratio with either end of the sprockets. Adding more POWER/\ losing top end speed. I personally prefer to change the rear sprocket because I never need (read want) to have that much top-end. BEWARE though that even if you change tires you only have so much rubber on the road...and it should be as good as all teh money that your bike and your body./life is worth. Tires are probably second only to brakes of being the most important items on your BIKE...leaving out your personal safety gear as being more important than the bike itself. For Quick changes in gearing, with out having to change the chain for each sprocket change you can change out the front (countershaft) sprocket. Sure it is faster and easier, cheaper and you don't need a second chain, but it causes the chain to make a tighter circle because it is smaller. First, second, third and maybe fourth gears the front end is VERY light, with first gear wanting to pull wheelies (a bad thing if you only have two wheels), so it makes things very interesting and powerful. Did I mention that because you change hte gearing that you also lose gas mileage? hey, win something...lose something...it's fun...and if you have a great physics(or even a great math) teacher it is ALL a blast to look at from that angle and learn from!
Seems the FORUM is mod Happy??? NOT AT ALL! The newest bikes offered by the manufactures have 4-2-1 with titanium or aluminum or stainless cans/canisters/muffler! Somewhere there must be some happy steel producing people that make pipes cheaper than the newer light-weight pipes. Weigh someone elses, or better yet one of the guys on the web can probably tell you to the closest pound what diffference is. Wheels and tires also have some differences...major in some cases...not just in wieght but in Moment of inertia as in gyroscopic effect/like a spinning top. IF you decide that you want to sacrifice top-end (say 140 on a 500R/with mods) then you can also change the gear ratio with either end of the sprockets. Adding more POWER/\ losing top end speed. I personally prefer to change the rear sprocket because I never need (read want) to have that much top-end. BEWARE though that even if you change tires you only have so much rubber on the road...and it should be as good as all teh money that your bike and your body./life is worth. Tires are probably second only to brakes of being the most important items on your BIKE...leaving out your personal safety gear as being more important than the bike itself. For Quick changes in gearing, with out having to change the chain for each sprocket change you can change out the front (countershaft) sprocket. Sure it is faster and easier, cheaper and you don't need a second chain, but it causes the chain to make a tighter circle because it is smaller. First, second, third and maybe fourth gears the front end is VERY light, with first gear wanting to pull wheelies (a bad thing if you only have two wheels), so it makes things very interesting and powerful. Did I mention that because you change hte gearing that you also lose gas mileage? hey, win something...lose something...it's fun...and if you have a great physics(or even a great math) teacher it is ALL a blast to look at from that angle and learn from!
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