Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, after learning tons of stuff on this forum - including everything I needed to know about my first oil change - I figured it was time to give something back. I know how much you love pictures, so I took some as I did the 600 mile change on my '07 900 Classic LT.

The drain plug is a 17mm bolt. All of the regulator-related bolts are 10mm. I used a "pliers" type oil filter wrench to remove the factory filter and while it was snug, it was not difficult to remove.

The regulator cover comes off first; then the regulator itself (which I left on the bike as the connector seemed plenty sturdy to hold it); then the regulator bracket. After all of that is out of the way, the filter is accessible. I used the Purolator PL14612, $5.88 from Advance Auto Parts.

The most difficult part was actually adding the fresh oil. I neglected to take note ahead of time that the fill hole is on an angle, and the standard funnels I have made it difficult to fill. Next time, I'll use a funnel with a long, flexible tube on the end to make life easier (and neater).

Overall, it was much easier than I anticipated after reading the difficulties some had with removing the oil filter.

Anyway, hope the pics are of some help to future DIY'ers!

Jim
 

Attachments

·
Wannabe Poser
Joined
·
3,446 Posts
Thanks James. Next change I plan on doin myself also.
 

·
Old Dudes Rule
Joined
·
135 Posts
Good job James, but---YOU DIDN"T CLEAN THE SCREEN!! 17mm plug on the kick stand side, between the frame and the block. It's not too late, just pull the plug, slide out the spring and stick your clean finger in the hole to remove the tubular screen. I found an amazing amount of wierd stuff on my first change. I found that break cleaner (the cheap stuff in a spray can) works great for cleaning the screen. Dont forget to clean the seal washer and all the mating faces before installing the plug, and put some clean oil on the seal when installing, otherwise it'll leak. I replace the seal every other time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
905 Posts
I had looked at the Yamaha before buying the 900. You've got to drop the exhaust on them to get to the filter. Those 4 bolts to get the regulator off are way less work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
LabGuy - Thanks for the tip on the screen! It wasn't mentioned at all in the owner's manual - I'll do it.

Captain Rando - It looks like WAY more work than it really is - I probably over-explained it all as I tend to do - getting the regulator and its associated stuff off took maybe 2 minutes, literally. The guys I don't envy are the V-Star guys who have to drop an exhaust to get to theirs. Now that's just crazy talk! :)

JBrian - I did not use a lift. There was plenty of clearance on the side stand to get to the drain plug. I did use a shallow drain pan (actually a cat litter pan) though. I turned the front wheel all the way to the right to make access to the filter easier. After spending a lot of mental energy and weighing out the various opinions on conventional v. synthetic on the first change, I went with conventional 10W-40 4-stroke Honda oil. (Honda because my Kawi dealer is way, way too far away to make the drive - the Honda dealer is on my way home). Next time, we'll go synthetic. Then the question is which one :)

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,476 Posts
Took my screen out, but had nothing in it, just a small spec. Watch taking it out, because you have to bend it a little to get it out past the frame. Not hard, but be careful still. Also, be sure to clean each part and set them in order on a rag, so you can re-install with out a problem.

Just my opinion, but I wouldn't use any kind of brake cleaner on the screen. Why chance putting contaminants in the new oil. The engine and screen are relatively new, and don't need that heavy of a cleaning.

D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
711 Posts
Thanks Jim. Great job with the pics. I plan on doing the next change myself also. Really appreciate the time you took with pictures and explaination.
 

·
Hoosier Vet
Joined
·
383 Posts
The screen is located in front of the kickstand and behind the frame rail. Takes a 17mm wrench. Plug comes out, then spring, then flat washer, then the screen. Hardest thing for me was getting the threads started again on the plug when I put it all back together..
 

·
Hoosier Vet
Joined
·
383 Posts
Got this idea from one of the forums, except the other guy used like 4" PVC pipe and cut to fit around muffler. I used 2 2X4s and cut the half circles with a bandsaw, then nailed the 2 halves together. Guess you could nail them together then saw the circle. Started out with 2-9inch 2x4s. Then set my compass to 1 1/2 inches for a 3 inch circle. Measured half way across the end of the 2x4, put the compass point there, and drew a half circle. The board will then measure 7 5/8 inches from bottom end of 2x4 to the bottom edge of the circle. Then when you get ready to change the oil, put the board standing up under the muffler (circle und up) Stand the bike up until the muffler rests in the cut. Then place a 4x4 under the kickstand. Bike will stay upright pretty solidly allowing you to complete the oil change and oil screen cleaning without fear of the bike falling over.Here are a couple pics.

View attachment 15409

View attachment 15410
 

·
Jason C
Joined
·
122 Posts
Not a bad idea although I would put some kind of material in the wood to keep from skuffing my exaust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Believe me...the 900 is much easier to change the oil on. My wife has the 900 and I have the VStar 1100. I hate changing the VStar. Takes hours, due to having to take the exhaust off. The 900 is great. Anyone who wants to complain about changing the oil in the 900 can come change my 1100 next time....lol
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
371 Posts
It is hard to believe that the engineers at Kawasaki found it necessary to locate the oil filter behind the rectifier. It makes one wonder if they did that to help cool the oil. On my 98 1500 Classic, the filter was located on the back side of the engine and was snap to get to and remove. Was at a garage sale and found a low profile plastic tray that would fit under the bike and still hold all the oil. I guess all us 900 owners should be thankful that we don't ride a Yamaha with their unique filter location.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Thanks for the information and pics. I'm about to change my oil before I store it for the winter.
 

·
Poser Proud®
Joined
·
3,778 Posts
Jeez...you 9 hunerd guys sure gotta take off a lotta crap to get to that filter.
It does seem kinda strange to put the filter behind the regulator, but it really isn't that hard. Only takes a couple of minutes. I guess that regulator needs lot of air. ;)
 

·
Poser Proud®
Joined
·
3,778 Posts
Overall, it was much easier than I anticipated after reading the difficulties some had with removing the oil filter.

Anyway, hope the pics are of some help to future DIY'ers!

Jim
Very cool james. Great pictures. Thanks.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top