I have a 2001 W650 "retro" twin, and I am trying to find out if there is a Fram (or other) oil filter substitute for the stock Kawasaki spin-on filter, part #16097-1068, as per the Kawasaki.com parts diagrams.
Call your dealer or call Beartrooth and ask...or if you go to a parts store look under filters and see what number that they give for a cross reference...personally I won't use FRAM anymore...one bad experience and I just won't...Hastings, purolator, AMSOIL, wix...
I used fram filters and always kept filters in my RV for my truck...I must have flung a rock and hit my filter and I lost oil pretty fast. I replaced the filter and refilled the oil and about a week later going down the side of a mountail Literally in CA, it exploded! To much Pressure...Since then I found out that farm trucks can use a 2quart filter on their 350 (5.7L) engines and I have used Purolator or AMSOIL since. two frams in two weeks and that is all I could take...Then I had bought a CASE of Racing Fram filters of my Camaro 350 and being curious and having a brand new dremel tool I cut one open only to find that it had less material inside than a standard fram...but they cost $26.00ea! Just put a foul taste in my mouth, back them...Hastings is a good filter...Tear one of those apart sometimes and se how much material is inside andhow much it traps...
Well, sounds like you've got plenty of good reasons for looking beyond Fram. Sounds like they are slacking off in the quality department and relying on the their name recognition for sales.
I found an STP filter that'll fit the W650, so I went with that. AutoZone carries them. Price wasn't too bad either at $6.
Seems like most, or maybe all, filters are being made overseas nowadays, and I'll bet you the vendors change sources going with the cheapest available on a constant basis, so a check such as you made by cutting one open every now and again is good check of the quality.
I have been trying to remind myself to do that on a used filter whenever I change oil and filter, just as a check to see if anything major is amiss as well as having a look at how well the filter element itself is made.
Besides the W650, I also have an '82 KZ550 with over 40K on it. I think the main reason it's lasted this long and still runs strong is regular oil and filter changes. Cheap insurance, in my book.
Do you have any thoughts on oil itself? Any brand favorites? What do you think of synthetic oils?
Nice day here today, gotta go spin them wheels ....
The cheapest insurance that you have with oils it to changethe oil filter every time you get to a certain even mark on your vehicle. for me every 5,000Miles on my car/truck I toss the filter na add a new one. I only add enough oil to fill it back to the full mark. Once a year I change it, usually just before summer. Changing the filter gets rid of any junk in the system and allows the nwe filter to catch anything that the old one may ahave let bypass because it was getting full. Replenishing the oil everytime that you change the filter is just that... Synthetic 10-40 in the winter and 20-50 in the summer...I changed right after my fuel mileage topped out. IF you want to have a demonstration of oils ask some friends to bring some oil over, and make sure that the amounts are equal and usea camp stove and put the oils on and see which ones burn up the fastest, timing them and then use a couple of synthetics using the same proceedure...it is a valuable tool in making you use full synthetics all of the time. If you have a super freezer do the same with oils and see how they flow when they are cold...synthetics win again! ANY good synthetic is my choice, I use AMSOIL, but you can get ALmost any brand of good synthetic oil at AutoZone. If it makes you feel good (like Curt) to change your oil at the same time and it only cost and additional $6.00 then go ahead and do it...synthetic is worth it's weight in that ther is less friction, therefore less heat and wear, so you get prolonged engine life...besides it doesn't evaporate like Dino oils do. and its sheer strength is vastly greater than crude oils...I carry a case of filters at a time and when I get to my last two I order another case (12) and I keep them in an old gym locker that I have in my barn...along with oil. If you want to keep your top end lubricated, like in the old days you can add a smidge of Marvel Mystery oil to your gas, or just a shot of 2 stroke oil to your gas...it protects the tank from rust and it wont hurt the carbs because you are using so little of it...it may be over kill but "an ounce of prevention is worth...whatevever...they used to say in the old days...personally I've used diesel on occasion just a very small amount, as it is oil based and as kid we used to take old cars and dump about 6 oz. from an old Coke bottle with our thumb over it and rev the engine up to keep it from stalling and pour it directly intothe carb to clean out the top end and blow out carbon and xrap from the engine...It would smoke liek a couple of dragsters at the track but it would blow out the nastiest amount of carbon that you have ever seen from the exhaust. You can also use diesel to flush the oil system in your car...but that takes a lot of explanation so that you don't ruin the car engine...but it leaves hte engine CLEAN when you are done!
I started using Castrol Syntec in my W650 after break in, since it's air cooled and I wanted the maximum protection possible for it.
I don't put a lot of miles on it as I have two other bikes that I also ride.
So far, I change the oil and filter every spring. I also try to ride all of my bikes throughout the year, which in winter could be as little as once a week (ice and snow not withstanding), so I want the maximum protection that a synthetic offers.
It's nice to find someone that shares his love of motorcycles and caring about machinery. Gas does go sour in the winter, but the use of 100LL aviation gas and stabil does help...keeping the bikes in the barn helps and running them long enough to get them actually up to normal operating temperatures is really important. I find it truely amazig that ther are so many people out on the forum that wil spend literally 5-10K Dollars on a bike and won't buy the service manual or even think about how to prepare it for winter storage...I was raised working in a service station so perhaps I have an unfair view of the rest of the motor community...my biased opinion may be just that...nice to hear from you...
Glad to get the info on filter cross-overs, Kaw filters should be platinum plated. I did take the lovely chrome filter cover off when I did my first oil change. I figure an air-cooled motor needs all the help it can so the filter doesn't need that cover over it cutting down air flow. BTW, it's not recommended to tie your sleeping bag to the forks over the wheel. Air flow you know. I see riders do it all the time.
I need only the left side carb body for a 2003 zr-7s. I'll take a whole set if you have one but if you have a partial set or a set you can't use that has a good left carb body, that's all I really need.
Looking at bringing back my wife to rider status (she is a qualified rider) and beginning research to find a nice smaller, lighter ride for her.
Presently thinking of a GPZ550 OR a KZ550 OR a Zephyr 550.
Would the forum members be kind enough to share their opinions based on experience with...
Vilken typ av motor har jag och undrar på vilka motorcykel den sitter. Motornumret är F107-101202 125 cc vattenkyld
Vilken typ av motor har jag och undrar på vilken motorcykel den sitter. Motornummer är F107-101202 125 cc vattenkyld
I have a 2001 ZR-7S and would like to know where the center stand rests so it does not contact the chain. I have it rigged up with a stand-off so it does not do this but it rests on the swing arm now. I have a rubber peice mounted on the swing arm to protect it from damage but I don't feel this...
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