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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The front disk brakes on my 1982 KZ750H3 work fine. The lever feels hard when pulled and doesn't need any pumping and all seems fine. Except that the lever pulls in almost to the point of touching the grip! The pads are nearly new so it's not a wear problem. I rebuilt the cylinder (stock and corrent for that year) last year and tried bleeding the lines yesterday. No air and no help. I've tried moving the master cylinder (stock and rebuilt last year) into different positions on the (stock) handlebars, but it doesn't help. Once the pads start to wear I'm afraid the lever will actually hit the grip!

I see no adjustment for this. Any ideas? Thanks!
 

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GHOSTRIDER
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Is the lever worn at the plunger contact point or the bolt? Has the lever been bent? Useing your calipers, measure your lines diameters with and then without pressure to see if theyre swelling beyond service limits. Many OEM lines develope a bad spot that swells larger than the rest of the line, you can feel a bulge by hand, check that out too. Alot of riders opt for the braided and stainless brake lines, not me.
 

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GHOSTRIDER
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So, where do you get your lines? Made up at a hydraulic shop or something?
Z1-E, OEM and NOS all over the web. Im not a stunter or track racer. I dont like the instant response the steel lines give to antiquated MCs and calipers. That can lead to lock up and dumping the bike, I prefer a little more hand control and feel that the OEM lines give.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've been bleeding car and motorcycle brakes for years. No, no air in the lines, and the hoses are not expanding. I don't know if the lever is worn. Good question. The bolt hole seems prefectly round, but I suppose it's possible that the piston contact point is worn. How could I tell?
 

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GHOSTRIDER
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I've been bleeding car and motorcycle brakes for years. No, no air in the lines, and the hoses are not expanding. I don't know if the lever is worn. Good question. The bolt hole seems prefectly round, but I suppose it's possible that the piston contact point is worn. How could I tell?
Take the lever off the MC and look at the contact area.
 

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itching to ride
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If you do not have air and the lines are not expanding and there is not slop from wear in the lever then it is either your MS or caliper. You will have to take them apart and inspect. And the pull should not be hard. That sounds like something binding.
 

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Navy Vet Search & Rescue
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And the pull should not be hard. That sounds like something binding.
I believe his comment about "hard" was meant as in it's "solid" not spongy as if there were air in the line when the lever bottoms out.

I added SS lines to mine but I also added a new MC at the same time so I can't say whether there is less lever travel but it sure seems like there is. As mentioned, the SS lines give the effect of more braking with less pressure. Since I use my front brake 90% of the time and I have a better sense of feel in my hand than with my foot, I adjusted to the new lines on front very quickly and have never locked it up. I cannot say the same for the rear though. The rear brake is very sensitive now and I have hit it a little too firmly a couple of times and locked the rear tire up for a second. All in all, I like the change and feel like I have a lot more stopping power now.
 

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Vicrory is Mine
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It kinda sounds like the brake master cylinder and caliper do not match. Do you know if the caliper is the original?
 

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itching to ride
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It's in the fine print. :tongue:
I am just a country boy and often mistake words that mean something different than what is said. vvv
:lol:
The front disk brakes on my 1982 KZ750H3 work fine. The lever feels hard when pulled and doesn't need any pumping and all seems fine. Except that the lever pulls in almost to the point of touching the grip! The pads are nearly new so it's not a wear problem. I rebuilt the cylinder (stock and corrent for that year) last year and tried bleeding the lines yesterday. No air and no help. I've tried moving the master cylinder (stock and rebuilt last year) into different positions on the (stock) handlebars, but it doesn't help. Once the pads start to wear I'm afraid the lever will actually hit the grip!

I see no adjustment for this. Any ideas? Thanks!
 

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Navy Vet Search & Rescue
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Are you a reporter? If not, you'd make a good one so you might want to check in to that. They're real good at taking things out of context like using just part of a sentence and twisting it around to make things sound better. :lol: You have to read everything from . to . not just part of what is in between them.

fine. The lever feels hard when pulled and doesn't need any pumping and all seems fine.
:twisted: :twisted: :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yea, I meant 'hard' as in not spongy. It's almost as if the part of the lever that touches the piston is worn off, but it doesn't look worn. Maybe the lever was bent once. The bike was dropped on it's right side by the previous owner, but the lever is not scarred up and doesn't look bent. Hummm....don't know.
 

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itching to ride
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Are you a reporter? If not, you'd make a good one so you might want to check in to that. They're real good at taking things out of context like using just part of a sentence and twisting it around to make things sound better. :lol: You have to read everything from . to . not just part of what is in between them.



:twisted: :twisted: :biggrin:
I prefer to call it spin. :tongue:

Actually when someone understands that it is firm but will pull about all the way in then I think they are reading into it something that was not clear. I have never seen a lever that was firm and at the same time long on travel unless there was a lot of slop in the pivot. But then that should be obvious by just looking at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, I just went out and took a long look at it. I tried bleeding it again and can't produce any air at all. Looked at the master cylinder and the number is right for this bike ('82 KZ750H3). So I got to wondering if the lever itself is right? As I mentioned, the bike had been dropped on it's right side, so maybe the previous owner replaced the lever with something different. I've inclosed a shot of this lever (which is longer then the clutch lever and of a different shape). It has no Kawasaki number on it at all, just the letter "C" in a circle as seen. For those who have this bike, does this look like the right lever?
 

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