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Remove the cap and inspect for two small holes in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir. I suspect one or more is blocked. Use a wooden toothpick to unclog the hole(s) and try to bleed the system again. Is the bleeder open at the caliper?

Use caution as brake fluid will strip paint. I use plastic wrap or foil on the gas tank when working with this fluid.

If you can't pressure bleed the system, try using a mighty-vac(hand operated vacuum pump) to pull the brake fluid out at the bleeder.
 

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Any chance that the pistons are stuck open? Or, there could be a clog in the line from something that got dragged down through when you drained it. Personally, I never drain the system dry. I just pump new through until I've displaced enough to have run through the old. That way, I don't run into air bubbles or priming issues. I'll essentially flush it with pretty much the whole bottle. The bottles hold at least 3 full reservoirs full, so I just makes sure at least the volume of two is drained before I let the system fill.

When you put fluid in the master cylinder and pump it, does it go anywhere or stay in the reservoir?

The Mighty Vac advice above may be the cure. You may simply need something with some pull to work it through. Just be sure to start with a fresh bottle so you can run enough through to ensure all the air is out - especially since there's obviously a lot in there now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got it working. Turns out that the old fuid was so gummy and old that when I drained the lines they had clogs. I'm glad that I did because I would HATED to have had that happen at 65 or 70+ miles an hour. NOT THAT I WOULD BREAK THE SPEED LIMIT! wink wink
 
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