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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I am working on a friends bike, a 01 1500 Vulcan Nomad that wont start. We are pretty sure that it is a bad fuel pump.
The pump does not humm, or pump any gas, and if you squirt gas in the throttle body the bike runs for a few seconds. There is current going to two of the four plugs on the connecter to the gas pump.
When I was checking it before we did not have a manual, but have one now.
I do not want to tell him he needs a pump unless I am positive this is the problem.
In the manual there is a way to hot wire the pump, to test it, but have not tried this yet. Wanted to check with you guys first before I went over to his house to do more diagnosis.
Question, is there a way to rebuild these pumps, or are they throw away.
Can they be bumped with 24 volts, to get them started.
I think the problem is that the bike has sat for a while and just froze up.
Any suggestions will be appreciated including where to buy one reasonable priced.
Oh yea, Sorry about the name, but this is who I am in all my other forums so if you have a problem with that sorry.
It’s all about having the wind in our knees, bugs in our teeth, love of riding instead of driving.
HC
 

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When key is turned on, fuel pump only runs for a couple of seconds, then shuts off.
To test:
1. With key on and after 10 second wait, should have 12v on white/red and black/white at fuel pump connector. If no 12v on white/red, there is a break between DFI main relay and pump connector. If no 12v on black/white, the pump is open. Try tapping on case and see if you can get the 12v to show up. If the above passes, then:

2. While monitoring black/white, turn key off and then back on. Should go to ground (0v) for a few seconds and then back to 12v. If no ground shows, there is a break between pump plug and ECU. Check all connections including at ECU, pin 13. Also possible bad ECU, but we will not go there yet.

Post back with your findings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sfair, Thanks for the get back, I put a ice pick 12v tester (light in the handle) and had hot to two of the leads going to the fuel pump. I am pretty sure they were the two striped wires.
I am not getting any noise from the fuel pump at all and with the lines loose not getting any gas getting pumped.
We took the tank off and drained the gas, when we put it back on I thought I heard a real short hum, (fraction of a second just a h ;-) but is was so brief I would not bet on it.
Can these pumps get clogged and not pump, can they be back flushed?

When key is turned on, fuel pump only runs for a couple of seconds, then shuts off.
To test:
1. With key on and after 10 second wait, should have 12v on white/red and black/white at fuel pump connector. If no 12v on white/red, there is a break between DFI main relay and pump connector. If no 12v on black/white, the pump is open. Try tapping on case and see if you can get the 12v to show up. If the above passes, then:

2. While monitoring black/white, turn key off and then back on. Should go to ground (0v) for a few seconds and then back to 12v. If no ground shows, there is a break between pump plug and ECU. Check all connections including at ECU, pin 13. Also possible bad ECU, but we will not go there yet.

Post back with your findings.
 

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There are four stripped wires on the fuel pump connector...2 for the fuel pump itself and 2 for the reserve switch.
You will have to go back and do the tests as I have outlined to narrow down a pump problem, or not.
As far as flushing, etc, I suppose anything is possible, but in my opinion, it is not something that I would do as it may have a "strand me in the middle of nowhere" problem that could re-occur.

Post back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sfair, thanks, Yea I am going to try to get back over there this weekend, and will check it out better.
I don’t remember what wires but do know the light was bright with one and dim on the other like it had a lower voltage, so this might have been the reserve switch.
The two others were dead.
I did not have a volt meter, or a lot of tools, it was too nice not to ride there.:smile:
Sure appreciate you taking the time to reply, I know very little about fuel injection, and even less about Kawasaki’s.
He is panicked, can’t afford to take the bike anywhere, and is talking about selling it because he is so frustrated.
Yet he love to ride.
Will get back, HC

There are four stripped wires on the fuel pump connector...2 for the fuel pump itself and 2 for the reserve switch.
You will have to go back and do the tests as I have outlined to narrow down a pump problem, or not.
As far as flushing, etc, I suppose anything is possible, but in my opinion, it is not something that I would do as it may have a "strand me in the middle of nowhere" problem that could re-occur.

Post back.
 

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Using proper troubleshooting techniques, we can narrow down and find the problem. One thing NOT to do is to start throwing parts at it. It never works and a sure fire way to the poor house. Hang in there.
A meter is a wise purchase, much more accurate than a test light and not that expensive, either.
 

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Most Kawasaki fuel pumps are controlled by a relay, this bike should have one too. I'd also check the related wiring for corrosion or broken pins in the conectors. If the fuel pump will run with 12 volts directly applied, I'd think the relay is suspect as being bad.

It's not a good idea to apply 24 volts to a 12 volt pump unless you want to spend $$$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
tested bad

Tested the leads the for the fuel pump, like you explained. everything was good at the conector. The and then hot wired the fuel pump got nothing, pulled it and jumped it on the terminals inside the pump on the bench, still got nothing. So found one on e-bay from a salvage bike, for 75 plus shipping, so we have ordered it. Just want to thank everyone, especially sfair.
I really appreciate the time it took to post, will let you know if the new pump fixes it.
Thanks H cruiser
 
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