I have removed the axle bolts which werent that hard. Why did they torque this thing beyond belief? I will try what you said and thanks for the reply!
I am the original owner and this is the first time I have had to open up all this stuff. I am going to get some deep creep stuff tonight and let it soak tonight and see what happens tomorrow morning.Unless a previous owner over torqued it (which is always possible) this could be quite normal with nobody to blame.
Steel bolts have an affinity to aluminum. Over a long period of time it forms a kind of corrosion bond. You need to not only overcome the bolting torque, you need to overcome the corrosion bond torque as well.
Appreciate your help! I would be glad to get all the help I can at this moment. Seeing my bike in tatters is kind of depressing for me. I can't wait to put it together and have it run again. I will document with pics as I go along for reference!Sounds like a plan. If you strip the socket head, we have some tricks for dealing with that. Same thing for if the bolt breaks but let's try to avoid those scenarios if at all possible
I got some SeaFoam Deep Creep and that stuff worked like magic! It removed the bolts like butter which is attached to the cylinder but the other bracket where the fuel line goes is stuck. I think since the bike is tilted to the left on the side stand, gravity is preventing the deep creep from getting into that bolt. Will tilt it right and let it soak and try again.Sounds like a plan. If you strip the socket head, we have some tricks for dealing with that. Same thing for if the bolt breaks but let's try to avoid those scenarios if at all possible
That seems like a great idea. The way the fuel hose(which is already short) snakes in between the two cylinders, have to figure out the right spot to cut the hose so it sits in between the cylinders and doesn't get too hot.I would install an aftermarket, see-through fuel filter so you won't be left stranded due to dirt getting to your injectors.
Keep an eye on the filter, but the filter can hold a lot more dirt than the speck that would plug an injector.
The filtration is a two step process inside the fuel pump. One is a strainer which I have many new ones and the other mesh filter which you can't see but is molded into the plastic housing of the fuel pump. I flushed it through a hole with a cleaner and blew some compressed air and it seems to be clean now.One very important cautionary note regarding fuel filters. Make sure the filter is rated for fuel injection systems.
With the way you describe it, you may not have enough room for an after market filter. What does your primary filter look like?
I checked yesterday and the guy wanted $200. But, he wouldn't tell me what liner he will be using. So I am a little worried. I heard some liners just peel off and I think POR-15 is good? Not sure...If you really want to go that way, automotive radiator service shops will clean and coat your tank for you. Last quote I got was just under $100 if I recall correctly. Might be something to consider.
I called many shops and only one around my area seems to do it. When asked what liner they will be using they said they have tried many in the past and have found one that is good, but wouldn't tell me what it is! Which is fine as far as they can do it right.$200 USD seems pretty steep. Have you shopped around? What is their warranty like?
I agree with Martin, lack of proper prep leads to premature failure. I recently cleaned my 1984 tank without coating it.
I never run ethanol fuel so I am not worried about ethanol related rusting. I used Enviro-wash by Rust Check. They say if you want rust prevention then let the last application of Enviro Wash, air dry instead of flushing with water. It leaves some kind of protective coating on the steel.