[neverendingmods]

I ride my 04 500 for usually around 5 hrs at a time. 1-2 times a month as I'm getting older(older). I am finding that gear/trannjy oil is shot after every session. Slow and fast riding more slow for this thing. When I warm up engine and then drain oil it is very milky. I would think mostly in part to the tranny and clutches. I run Castrol20W50 conventional. After last riding session I sunk her in a pond. No water at all in crank case thank God. I studied the oil in drain pan for 2 days. It gradually went back to normal color on top layer(in drain pan). But, when placed on angle it was almost like a silvery aluminum mix. Very fine clinging to pan. I filled her back up w/ 20W50 conv. and idled her for 5 mins and placed in 1st gear to help(I don't know) to remove any deposits. I just put in fresh(as was the last batch of conventional oil) to full synth. 20w50. I am however worried this will cause excessive wear/slippage of clutch plates which are seemingly being the culprit. I only idled her once going to full synthetic and no riding so I don't know if clutches will slip. Anyone have any good recommendations on what crank/tranny oil to use? When I see what looks like good oil in shops and mags it states 4 stroke oil. I just need good clutch lube I think. What about Lucas oil?

Thanks,
Eric

 

[shift1313]

i run golden spectro 80w gear , i believe its a synth blend and its just for two stroke trannys. Ive never had anything else in my mx bikes. in the my 4 strokes i run 50/50 blend, usually golden spectro 10/40.
http://www.compacc.com/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=558&CFID=368052&CFTOKEN=24107220

hope that helps

ps, full synthetic especially car oil usually makes clutches slip in my case. car oil doesnt have friction modifiers, bike oil goes through tranny and clutch, car just bottom and top end. others will say different but ive never run car oil in my bikes and never had a problem, go figure :wink:

 

[neverendingmods]

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

 

[neverendingmods]

I got the water out of case finally. It did do some wear and tear I'm afraid. Initial drainage after pond incident was all milky/ silver and heavy. This was using Castrol 20W50 conventional like manual states. I drained that goop out, filled again w/ Castrol20W50 full synthetic (both times car motor oil/stupid manual). So, taking shifty's advice and my parts/fellow older 500 rider, I warmed up bike and drained the full synyhetic. Never rode her w/it. I knew I wasn't being just paranoid. The power and slip tendencies of synthetic would not be cool. So, I discovered some aluminum flakes(this si 2nd flushing in 0 hrs of ride time) and will not ever use car oil(weight irrelevant) again. I was(unable to find shifty's oil) so Silkolene medium gear oil I was recommended at shop. It is conventional but ck(crank case) visc. of 20w50 and tranny visc of 85W90. Someone on here once told me to watch the stock alum. clutches and once gone to go steel as replacement.... Along w/billet basket and stronger springs :twisted: . Hence my user name. I will change crank/tranny oil every 5 hrs of ride time.(every ride session.).

By the way, I now run Klotz 80% synt. and 20% castor oil and what a difference. Was using a synth. blend(50/50) but not in this bike again.

Eric

 

[shift1313]

i guess thats good and bad news eric. sorry about the metal, hopefully its still break in coming out of there. on the clutch. Its a great idea to step up to steel but be carefull of stronger springs. I had a barnett clutch and hd springs in my yz250 and it was horrible to ride. The clutch was soooooo stiff, i even put a banshee clutch lever on( alot longer then stock) for more pull and it wasnt barable for how much you gotta use the clutch(on a 250 anyways). i would swap the frictions and steels out but hold on to your stock springs. If the clutch slips you can always shim the springs and get more tension out of it.

 

[neverendingmods]

Good to know. Thanks shifty. :wink: . I haven't ridden the RD w/ the clutch work(forgot to tell you ). Last thing I need when trying to trail ride this thing is a no or go clutch engagement!. Great for the track racers and or hill climb only guys but I have to do some very tight trail/rocky riding before I reach the soft stuff. Then it still switches terrain as I ride w/ 4-wheelers most of the time. I never thought of engagement as a possible :evil: . You have awakened my mind :idea: . I have a tendency to think"bigger is better". Bites me some times.

Thanks.
Eric