Fork Oil = 10W20, capacity = 339cc both sides, Level from top of tubes = 470+/- 2mm
82 GPZ 1100 B2 Carb Conversion
My 1982 GPz1100 B2 had the FI replaced with BS34 "K" carbs and K&N pod air filters and the Mac 4 into 1 exhaust.
It's slow to warm up and seems to spits back through the carbs occasionally even after it's run for 15 min. or more. Eventually after maybe 8 or 10 miles, it seems to run without barking back much but doesn't quite have the mid-range I would expect.
I've got the carbs off for cleaning and repainting right now.
125 main jets
needle in on the 3rd (middle) slot.
The book I have says the K had 122.5 main jets and the needle in the middle slot.
I'm thinking about raising the needle one notch when I put them back together.
Question - Does that seem like a reasonable thing to do?
P.S. (as it warns in the manual, I let both of the little ball bearings on the choke rod get away from me. Doh!)
1981 Kawasaki GPZ1100 B1 EFI To Carb Conversion
I purchased an 81 GPz1100 this winter, and knew it had EFI issues. AFTER I bought the bike, while scrolling thru old posts to this list, I saw several posts from the PO mentioning all of his problems and headaches getting the bike to run. He had done a pretty thorough job of t-shooting the electrical system, but from what I hear, even a well-sorted 81 GPz1100 EFI is an ugly prom date. New rule: Before buying a bike, search these lists looking for posts from the current owner, mentioning unsolvable tech problems!
So...a set of BS34 carbs from Ebay, new carb mounts, and a set of 7/16" allen bolts to plug the injector holes, and it runs! so far this has only been driveway time, running off of a 1qt squeeze bottle of gas that keeps vapor locking. The bike has only 7000 miles, so everything else seems pretty tight. right now it is running thru V&H open headers, which sound pretty nice!
Re:Another 81 GPZ.
Saki Jockey wrote:
What are you running for Carbs / jets?
TK-22 carbs from an LTD(Same carbs on 550 A1-A3/C/D1, but D1's are black and have bigger main jets.)
Mains drilled to 99 (from 92 on the LTD, but D1's come with 94 mains).
Pilot jets drilled to 34 (from 32).
And I'm using Dynojet DN0205 needles from the 2305 kit. 3rd clip from top (out of 6possible positions), no shims
This is similar to the K&L rebuild kit Y77 needle which is identical to the Kawasaki 4D93 needle which is the adjustable version of the stock needles. On the Y77 or 4D93 you want the 2nd or 3rd clip from the top (out of 5 positions). (2nd mimicks the fixed position of the stock needle exactly.)
Mixture screws are about 1.25 to 1.5 turns out.
That was just a rough setting, but it seems to be flawless. Starts easily (even without a battery). Full power past redline, no pops, no hiccups, and no dead spots. I may have gotten lucky on the setting.
Ask over at KZrider.com - Home as they are pretty informed about these old bikes too.
Yup. Here's how you do it on an 83. KZ650 manifolds (Have the carb synch bungs on the manifold). A KZ650 right switch housing with headlight switch. Z-1R throttle cables. A 14mm plug for the return bung in the fuel tank. And either a set of Mikuni VM29 Smoothbores or VM33 Smoothbores. K&N pods, have a nice day.
If you just want it to RUN, substitute Mikuni VM26 or 28 carbs will save you between $250-500 on carbs.
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