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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

When I shall adjust the cam chain tensioner, an ordinary stock version, on my GPZ 900R A2 the spring snaps back directly when I remove the screwdriver although I push the tensioner against the engine. Is this correct ?

I have turned it back so the rod is 10mm from the tensioner body according to the procedure in the manual. Then I put it in place and push it against the engine block. I then tighten the two bolts and release the screwdriver. Directly it snaps back. This cant be right, can it ?
Any ideas ?

Martin
 

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Sounds right enough Martin, you wind and hold it to enable easy fitment and to ensure it's not beyond the necessary extension, then when you release the stop/screwdriver it'll take up the slack to the tensioner-blade. I used to use a retaining plate made from an old key and only remove this when the tensioner were torqued-up when i serviced 'em.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Okay, then it might not be a problem after all. The thing that made me a bit worried was that when the plunge was winded up I could move it axially a bit back and forth relative to the tensioner body. It seamed loose.
Is there any easy way to check if the tensioner is OK ?
 

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Is there any easy way to check if the tensioner is OK ?
Not really m8 apart from obvious signs of wear and tear as you look at it, and if the camchain rattles ;)

I'd not think that bit of lateral play was owt to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your reply!
There are no signs of wear on the tensioner but the chain makes some rattling noise. I have no good reference level for the noise, how much is OK ? The engine makes less noise when it is warm
I have replaced the cylinder head and I think the engine makes more noise afterwards but it is hard to tell exactly. Is this problem usually related to the tensioner or the chain itself ? I have not measured the chain wear
 

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If it's a definite rattling heard from more than a foot away then it's not good, then again, no rattling is good.

Rattling can be down to either or both, chains should last 30,000 miles-plus and the tensioners were quite reliable in my experience.

What mileage is on the bike?

Does it rattle constantly or just in a certain rev-range or just when throttle released?

Balancing carbs can alleviate a lot of rattles.

Sorry to be so nosey but why did you need a new head?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The rattling is mainly from 1500 - 3000 rpm. At idle there is almost nothing and at higher engine speeds it disappears in the exhaust noise, but I also got the impression that is decreases. It is most noticeable when the throttle is released.

The milage of my bike is 38000 miles and the reason for replacing the cylinder head was worn out valve seats. I could no longer adjust the valve clearance properly on the intake valves so I replaced the head with a used one in better condition.

Unfortunately I didn't measure the camchain while everything was disassembled since I didn't expect any problem. I have not noticed any rattling noise before although the engine were of course not entirely free from it.

I think the first step will be to remove the cover and the chain and measure it. If it is worn out I will replace it and otherwise the tensioner might need to be changed.


What's your opinion regaring stock tensioners vs. manual aftermarket tensioners ?
 
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