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Kimberly Dawn 1966 - 2009
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Discussion Starter #1
Once I had the control housings off the handle bars to put in the new risers, I decided to clean the crud off them..

Only things was the crud would not come off. I had to sand it down to bare Aluminum, buff and polish it all..

What do you all think???





Any thoughts on how to protect the aluminum now???
 

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Is that before - during - after?

I did the same thing this spring. I did not go as far with the sanding and polishing as you did. It looks fine unless you take a really close look at it.

I left mine with bare metal. 4 months and I haven't had a problem. I have read that you can use wax, clear coat, or clear nail polish. I hate buying the last one... something about a guy in a leather jacket buying nail polish.
 

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Using a good paint stripper a couple of times will make getting the original clearcoat off before sanding and polishing will make things a lot quicker and easier. As far as reclearcoating after polishing . Unless you can find a good clearcoat that has good UV protection from a rattle can (not sure you can but maybe from a auto paint store) you'll just have to go though the whole precess again in a year or two after it yellows. You might be able to drop them off at a autorepair shop and have them clearcoat them while there in the process of spraying a auto repair . You might even get a good clearcoating job from a good powercoat company?
 

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Eastwood Company: Auto Tools, Body Repair, Classic Car Restoration, House of Kolor Paint, Powder Coating
They sell all sorts of polishing supplies, wheels, compounds. They also have a sealer to be used after final polish. I have never used the sealer but the guy who hooked me up with these people use the sealer on big rig fuel tanks, they shine like chrome
The sealer won't make it shine like that. A few step polish will make it shine, a sealer is just going to protect and maybe ad a little bit of gloss.

If you want you can google my screen name and find a paint sealer. It's what I use on my drifter for all the chrome and aluminum.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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Ya, the crud was a failed factory clearcoat.

Some shops do have a clear powdercoat that could be used and won't yellow like spray on clears will.

Most times, clears yellow due to excessive coats, but polyurethane DOES yellow over time. An acrylic lacquer might do better.
 

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try zoop seal. its a liquid sealer thats like water . goes on real thin , let dry and never polish again, awesome stuff.
 

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Yup i did the rattlecan thing, black... looks great
 

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Kimberly Dawn 1966 - 2009
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Discussion Starter #16

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Machinist For Sale/Rent
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Ya, the crud was a failed factory clearcoat.

Some shops do have a clear powdercoat that could be used and won't yellow like spray on clears will.

Most times, clears yellow due to excessive coats, but polyurethane DOES yellow over time. An acrylic lacquer might do better.
If it is aluminum you can have it clear anodized. According to my local anodizer it dulls about 13% from polished. How they arrive at that number is likely pure guessing. To clear anodize those parts should cost less than $20.00 if you find someone local and can deliver all at once.
I polished a harley wheel and had it clear powdercoated and it turned grey. They stripped it, I repolished it and they once again clear coated it. Turned grey again but not as dark.

Bob,

Was the product in this link the "zoop seal" that endl98 also recommended?
yes, it is expensive but there would be enough there to do 50 pieces like those bar mounts Their part #11227
 
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