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Discussion Starter #1
I remember reading a thread about this (Trikebubble?) and I'm keen to do this with my new bars and risers on my 800. They are just 1" Fatboy bars on 6 1/2" HD risers (I have the top tree drilled out to 1/2")...

Anyone have step by step tips? or even pic's?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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Here's a copy-paste of a writeup that I did describing how I ran the wiring (internal) on my 16" apes....

Running Internal Wiring for 16” Apes
On the Vulcan 1600, all handlebar wiring terminates on 4 connectors in the headlight bucket. These instructions are based on this bike. These instructions are for 16" apes. Adjust the length of your extensions (I used 20") up or down based on the rise of your bars.

First, remove the headlamp assembly and unplug the handlebar harnesses from the main harness. Two connectors come from each side, brake light, right side controls (start button and kill switch), and clutch safety and left side controls (turn signals, horn, high/low beam).

I used 20ga stranded wire, and it’s been working fine for a year. I would not go lighter than 20ga, as the headlamp circuit is on a 10amp fuse, which really should be on 16-18ga conductors.
Before purchasing the wire, I wrote down ALL of the colors in the bundles. On the Vulcan, you’ll see wires like “red with white stripe and two silver dots”, “Yellow with red strip and one silver dot”, etc….
I purchased rolls of wire to cover all of the basic colors, then got some red, black, and silver Sharpie markers. The Sharpie markers allowed me to use white wire and make the red and black wires with white stripes, as well as add red stripes to the yellow and blue wires as needed.

What I did was cut 20” lengths and used the wire colors and sharpies to make duplicates of every wire in the bundles. This allowed me to cut the wires without having to put markers on them… it made it a LOT easier to reassemble everything.
With the extensions ready, I started about 3” above the BOTTOM connectors. I did this to allow me to have enough wire coming out of the bars to resplice with everything on the bike.
Stagger your cuts. Stagger your cuts. Did I mention, stagger your cuts?
If you cut the harness at one spot, by the time you get done splicing, you’ll have a huge “bump” that will not fit through the holes in the bars, and may not even fit inside the bars at all. I staggered my cuts by about an inch and a half, maybe two inches, cutting higher and higher into the harness as I went. On the left side (bunch o’ wires) this put my last cut maybe 6” below the control box.

Now, starting at the control box, begin splicing the extensions onto the factory harness. Don’t place the wires side by side and twist them… that will result in a HUGE joint that could cause problems feeding into the bars. Instead, use a “Western Union”. This is where you place the stripped wires facing each other like this ===--- ---===, then overlap the stripped part, and twist the bare wires around each other. This results in a joint that is smaller than the insulation itself. Solder the connection and move on to the next.

After all of the joints are made, slip shrink tubing over the wires. I don’t like using tape, as it tends to unwind over time, and half of these splices will be inside the bars where you can’t get to them, and if they become uncovered, they WILL short out against the bars.
I used 3M 1/8” shrink tubing with an adhesive lining. When heated, the adhesive melts around the joint and provides water proofing, but it is optional and standard 1/8” shrink tubing will do fine.
Don’t go crazy with the shrink tubing, you only want enough to cover about ¼” or less on each side of the splice, but keep in mind that it will shrink slightly in length as well, so if you think you need 1”, cut 1-1/4”.

Now is the fun part… feeding the wiring through the bars.
An easy way to do this is to take two pieces of string long enough to go all the way through the bars and use compressed air to blow them all the way through. Now reach inside the holes at the housing mounts with a pick and pull the ends out. Use tape to anchor ONE string at each grip position (tug the string back and forth to make sure you haven’t taped both ends of the same string.)
If you have only one hole at the bottom center of your bars between the risers, reach inside the lower hole, grab both strings and pull them out.
If you have two holes on the outside of your risers, grab both strings on the right side hole and pull them out through the hole. This will leave you with one string in the left side hole, now reach in and pull it out.
Tape the free ends at the bottom of the bars so you won’t lose them.
Take the wire bundles from the control housings and using a very small amount of electrical tape, tape them together so there are no wire end hanging. Since the cuts are staggered, you’ll need a fair amount of tape. Just make sure that you don’t make any “blobs”, as they will not pull
through the bars easily.

Now tie the upper end of the strings to the end of the wire bundles. Secure the string with another small piece of tape.
Gently pull the strings from the bottom while carefully feeding the bundles in through the top.
Be careful not to snag or strip the insulation as it goes through the holes at either end.
Once the harness is pulled through, congratulations, you’re more than halfway there.

Remount the control housings to the bars. The left side on the Vulcan is a pain, because the wiring has to pass next to the turn signal switch and it is a very tight fit, but it WILL fit, completely concealing all wires except for the clutch safety and brake light wires.
I dressed these wires with some chrome mylar braid covered with clear shrink tubing before pulling the bundles through the bars, but I really think it would look fine with just a piece of black heat shrink tubing, and will do it that way if I tackle this project again, as the clear shrink tubing doesn’t look as good as I thought. Another option might be to run the wires through a short piece of scrap stainless brake hose if you have any in the junk box. That would look a lot better than what I did.

Okay, now remove all of the tape from the wire bundles.
Some bikes (like the Vulcan 1600 and some HD models) have an upper fork cover behind the headlight. Sometimes, the wiring is run between this cover and the top triple tree. On the Vulcan 1600, there is not enough room there to pass the connectors for both sides. On other bikes, the wiring is run behind the tree, or in front of the tree but with no cover to block access.

Now is the time to decide how you want to “dress” the wires where they exit the bars. My Vulcan 1600 has an upper fork cover, so only a few inches of the wiring is exposed. I used the same treatment as I used on the brake and clutch wires. Again, plain black heat shrink will look okay,
it all depends on the look you are after. I’ve heard of people buying stainless braided toilet plumbing hose from the hardware store and running the wires through that. The tricky part is coming up with a fitting for the ends that prevent the braid from fraying and looks good. Maybe some of the Russell fuel line fittings used on hot rods would work.

Now everything is beginning to take shape, and you are ready to reattach the connectors to the bottom end of the harnesses. This is where you’ll appreciate both the staggered cuts, and the time and money spent with the Sharpies and multiple rolls of wire.

Strip the ends, slip a piece of heat shrink over each wire, and begin splicing the same way you did on top. Did I mention to slip the heat shrink over the wire BEFORE soldering them together? Tattoo this on the inside of your eyelids. I’ve seen more than one photo essay on this topic where the builder had a BIG cardboard sign on the wall of their shop or hanging on the toolbox “DON’T FORGET THE HEAT SHRINK!”

It’s no fun to have to desolder a connection because you forgot.

Now that the connectors are on, you are ready to feed the harnesses back into the headlight bucket (or under the tank). You will have excess, just coil it neatly and secure with a couple of zip-ties so all exposed wiring is neat and clean. Remount the headlamp assembly and you’re ready to test the system.

While performing the following checks, in addition to watching for the desired effects, also look and smell for smoke for any kind of burning smell.
Turn on the ignition, and check your parking lights. One by one, check the affected circuits… turn signals, brake light, horn. Tap the start button and make sure the headlight comes on with the engine. Check low and high beams, now test your kill switch.

NOW, pop the bike into gear and pull the kickstand up while sitting on the bike (clutch out).
Quickly tap the start button and make sure that the starter does NOT kick in. Now pull the clutch in and hit the starter again to make sure the engine does start in gear (important for when you stall it on the road).
If something doesn’t work, check and make sure that no fuses are blown. If they are, replace them and test again. If they blow again, then you have something shorted out. If they don’t blow again, then chances are you tapped something to ground during disassembly.

http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/vulcan/apes/DSC00547.JPG
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/vulcan/apes/DSC00548.JPG
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/vulcan/apes/DSC00549.JPG
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/vulcan/apes/DSC00550.JPG
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/vulcan/apes/DSC00551.JPG
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/vulcan/apes/controls1.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/vulcan/apes/controls2.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/vulcan/apes/controls3.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/vulcan/apes/controls4.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/vulcan/apes/controls5.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks rich, that is going to help out a lot.

Do you think it is possible with 1" bars, or is that just asking too much?
 

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wisdom is IQ, not post #
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People have done it to stock 1" bars so I don't see why it would be a problem. You'll just have to be patient on the bends and the staggering of the cuts will be more important due to the smaller inner diameter of the tubes. Also use the smallest hole necessary on the bars to ensure you don't compromise the structural integrity of the bars.
 

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use the smallest hole necessary on the bars to ensure you don't compromise the structural integrity of the bars.

+2
Suzuki used to run there wires internaly with 1" handlebars on there Intruders but tlike Streak said try to make the smallest hole you can get away with.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
People have done it to stock 1" bars so I don't see why it would be a problem. You'll just have to be patient on the bends and the staggering of the cuts will be more important due to the smaller inner diameter of the tubes. Also use the smallest hole necessary on the bars to ensure you don't compromise the structural integrity of the bars.
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here's a copy-paste of a writeup that I did describing how I ran the wiring (internal) on my 16" apes....
Rich, what kind of shrink wrap did you use - it matches the SS lines.

Also, where do I get those cable clamps you have used on the apes to hold the clutch and other cables in place?

Thanks
 

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Patriot Guardian
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thanks rich, that is going to help out a lot.

Do you think it is possible with 1" bars, or is that just asking too much?
Shouldn't be a problem. The Baron Kong bars and most other bars (even the 1.5" fatties) choke down to 1/2" at the control housings, and there's about an inch of narrow bar you have to get through before getting to the bigger part.
Also, most 1.25" apes choke back down to 1" at the riser area, and Kongs are drilled in the center, so there's another 3" to get through, not to mention a 3/8" hole.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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Rich, what kind of shrink wrap did you use - it matches the SS lines.

Also, where do I get those cable clamps you have used on the apes to hold the clutch and other cables in place?
The shrink wrap is just clear 3M heatshrink tubing, placed over chrome mylar braid sleeving. Now that it's aged, it looks pretty bad... the shrink tubing has turned pretty milky. If I were to do it again, I'd to something else, or just cover them in regular black heatshrink.

I got the clamps from Phatperformance.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Now that it's aged, it looks pretty bad... the shrink tubing has turned pretty milky. If I were to do it again, I'd to something else, or just cover them in regular black heatshrink..
I'm sure that even just plain black heatshrink will age fast and look "old" pretty quickly. I think yours looks really good.

BTW, exactly where do I drill the holes in the bars at the "controls end" - exposed handlebar or hidden inside the switch housing? And what size hole do you recommend?

Thanks
 

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Patriot Guardian
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The Barons are drilled right under the perches, just inside of the control housings, BUT they are dimpled from under the control housings to the holes.
For non-dimpled bars, I would drill them under the control housings, on the bottom of the bars... that's going to be the hardest part.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The Barons are drilled right under the perches, just inside of the control housings, BUT they are dimpled from under the control housings to the holes.
For non-dimpled bars, I would drill them under the control housings, on the bottom of the bars... that's going to be the hardest part.
thanks rich.
my bars are just HD fatboy bars and they are dimpled. Are you saying that I should drill the hole right on the dimple?
 

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Patriot Guardian
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thanks rich.
my bars are just HD fatboy bars and they are dimpled. Are you saying that I should drill the hole right on the dimple?
If the dimple is elongated, then drill it under the clutch/brake perch mount... if it's only a "drill here" guide dimple, then you're stuck, and really screwed if the dimple isn't under the switch housings.
 

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hi ya'll just thought i would sound off becausei just did some internal wiring on my 12" apes. i gotta say it was a pain in the *** but **** it looks good. one question i did have is, when lookin at your own wiring did u have some wires already spliced and reconnected in your stock wiring?? i had one splice on the right and two splices on the left. I saw that and was like what the hell is this ****? so just wondering if that was a kawasaki thing or what. Also one lil bit of advice that i did. the wires for the turn signals are more flimsy than the other wires on that side, so what i did was run another piece of wire thru then soldered the three connections for the turn signals and pulled thier feeble lil asses thru that way. just my two cents. Rich really has the best advice his helped me alot.
 
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