So... to explain what exactly Im trying to figure out....Someone (definitely not me) stripped the inner threads of the oil pan drain hole like a jackass & now I'm leaking oil. So I'm trying to find either A: an oversized self threading oil drain bolt or B: A rubber drain plug to solve this issue but not sure what size to get. The OEM drain plug (#92066-1174) says size 12x15 but doesn't specify 12x15 what, mm? cm? ft? mi? What does 12x15 mean? I just want to know what I need to ask for in order to get the right size. I'd appreciate any knowledge that anyone can drop on me cause I feel stuck like Chuck.
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That's NOT 12x15 its M12X1.5
With M being Metric
So Sump Plug is Metric 12mm Diameter with a 1.5mm Thread Pitch.
Below is my quick visual aid.
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If the threads are stripped then you will need to remove the oil pan and install an Insert (M12x1.5) or replace the oil pan with a new one.
I have no idea what you are refering to with a "Rubber Plug" but regardless that sounds to me like a disaster waiting to happen.
An oversized self threading drain plug is something I doubt if they exist work in this environment as you would end up with Aluminium Swarf in the oil pan leading to a catastrophic engine failure down the road.
Do it right once and be done with it.
With M being Metric
So Sump Plug is Metric 12mm Diameter with a 1.5mm Thread Pitch.
Below is my quick visual aid.
If the threads are stripped then you will need to remove the oil pan and install an Insert (M12x1.5) or replace the oil pan with a new one.
I have no idea what you are refering to with a "Rubber Plug" but regardless that sounds to me like a disaster waiting to happen.
An oversized self threading drain plug is something I doubt if they exist work in this environment as you would end up with Aluminium Swarf in the oil pan leading to a catastrophic engine failure down the road.
Do it right once and be done with it.
Helicoil, or take off the oil pan, have the hole Tig Welded to a smaller size, you can actually place a bolt in there, as the aluminum will not weld to the steal, then either tap it, or Heli-coil it, so you won't have to deal with a stripping problem. I have quick disconnects for my bikes, and they are kept on the bike. Just put up and turn, the oil comes out, of course, you make sure you oil drain pan is in place.
If you had listed the model and year of your bike, I'd would have looked it up on EBAY, where you can get a whole Oil Pan for almost nothing, depending on the bike. It's something I would consider. It could cheaper in the long run, as taps that size are expensive, the oil pan really needs to be relieved anyways, and I don't trust those rubber pressure plugs at all.
If you had listed the model and year of your bike, I'd would have looked it up on EBAY, where you can get a whole Oil Pan for almost nothing, depending on the bike. It's something I would consider. It could cheaper in the long run, as taps that size are expensive, the oil pan really needs to be relieved anyways, and I don't trust those rubber pressure plugs at all.
Amazing visual aid. **** Partzilla puts 12x15 for some reason so that threw me off & Kawasaki showed even less info. Thank you, I appreciate the clarityThat's NOT 12x15 its M12X1.5
With M being Metric
So Sump Plug is Metric 12mm Diameter with a 1.5mm Thread Pitch.
Below is my quick visual aid.
![]()
If the threads are stripped then you will need to remove the oil pan and install an Insert (M12x1.5) or replace the oil pan with a new one.
I have no idea what you are refering to with a "Rubber Plug" but regardless that sounds to me like a disaster waiting to happen.
An oversized self threading drain plug is something I doubt if they exist work in this environment as you would end up with Aluminium Swarf in the oil pan leading to a catastrophic engine failure down the road.
Do it right once and be done with it.
hank you.
I kept seeing the term helicoil but still don't know what it is. My bike is an 2001 Vulcan VN800 & that is plan B if what I got doesn't work &/or makes it worse lol. I ended up going with what I was originally told about, that being an oversized drain plug that, if I understand correctly, is self threading. The exact thing I ordered was "Dorman 090-174 Oil Drain Plug Oversize M12-1.50 S.O 5 pack" for like 10 bucks so I figured it's worth a shotHelicoil, or take off the oil pan, have the hole Tig Welded to a smaller size, you can actually place a bolt in there, as the aluminum will not weld to the steal, then either tap it, or Heli-coil it, so you won't have to deal with a stripping problem. I have quick disconnects for my bikes, and they are kept on the bike. Just put up and turn, the oil comes out, of course, you make sure you oil drain pan is in place.
If you had listed the model and year of your bike, I'd would have looked it up on EBAY, where you can get a whole Oil Pan for almost nothing, depending on the bike. It's something I would consider. It could cheaper in the long run, as taps that size are expensive, the oil pan really needs to be relieved anyways, and I don't trust those rubber pressure plugs at all.
A Heli-Coil is a kit that comes with an oversize tap. You screw in the over size tap, once in and once out, the with the tool, you screw in a new thread, There's a piece at the bottom of the coil thread that you snap off once the thread is inserted with the slight tap of a hammer. The thread is stronger than the original thread. You should learn how to use Heli coils, they can save you massive amounts of money. They comes in all sizes, and they also come in single kits like blow, or huge kits that are expensive, but have all the sizes.
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Concerned that they list this as an oversized M12X1.5 I hope it doesn't end up the same size as the one stripped and is of no use as they might mean oversized to say M10
The tap size written on the drill is not the size of the tap, but the size of the needed to use to get the hole for the proper size of the HeliCoil tap, which is a proprietary size to fit the thread inserts. Just for some fun facts, between Number, Fractional, and Letter drills, you an go incremental by .001" thousands of an inch. That is not possible in the Metric system. I've never used Loctite on HeliCoil systems.
My bad, I missed the bike model listed in the middle of the post. I expect people to research what they are using. If you have never head of HeliCoill, maybe you shouldn't use it.
Have you ever used Alumalloy? This could be easily fixed with this. The repair is stronger than the material around it. You can put the bolt in place, heat and apply the rod. The bolt will unbolt with the full threads made, and can be torqued fully. I used it to fix aircraft cowlings, cylinder heads, ladders, fins on motorcycle heads. It's very useful. I just purchased a pack to repair a chip off the edge of a aluminum rim (not on the bead).**
I've never had to do a drain plug. I'll remember the Loctite for such an application.
******I just realized that bike does not have a drain pan, the cases are split vertically. He may be screwed for a lot of reasons. He will have to get any chips out of there. If it were me I would consider going up a bolt size and using a bigger washer. If he had an aluminum piece made, drilled and tapped, then someone could TIG weld said piece in place (with bolt torqued in piece) over the hole, and that would be the best way to fix this. Fixing the hole itself on a part of the case that was built of for it means getting closer to the edge of that area. The area could get weaker. I have mounted the quick release set ups on my bikes to avoid these problems.
Either he fixes it with a HeliCoil (not all need be drilled, the tap sizes are so close (these aren't "form taps"), the taps cuts out the excess metal, my experience, unless he has stripped it so bad, then who knows what he's got going on. Most welding shops won't touch the engine in the frame. HeliCoil may be his only option. I've seen people use those rubber expanding plugs for years, but they ground on the threads very carefully, to end up with a smooth hole, and tightened the bejesus out of those clamps. There really is no crankcase pressure in that part of the engine. If he has someone do the repair, it won't be cheap.
www.alumaloy.com
Have you ever used Alumalloy? This could be easily fixed with this. The repair is stronger than the material around it. You can put the bolt in place, heat and apply the rod. The bolt will unbolt with the full threads made, and can be torqued fully. I used it to fix aircraft cowlings, cylinder heads, ladders, fins on motorcycle heads. It's very useful. I just purchased a pack to repair a chip off the edge of a aluminum rim (not on the bead).**
I've never had to do a drain plug. I'll remember the Loctite for such an application.
******I just realized that bike does not have a drain pan, the cases are split vertically. He may be screwed for a lot of reasons. He will have to get any chips out of there. If it were me I would consider going up a bolt size and using a bigger washer. If he had an aluminum piece made, drilled and tapped, then someone could TIG weld said piece in place (with bolt torqued in piece) over the hole, and that would be the best way to fix this. Fixing the hole itself on a part of the case that was built of for it means getting closer to the edge of that area. The area could get weaker. I have mounted the quick release set ups on my bikes to avoid these problems.
Either he fixes it with a HeliCoil (not all need be drilled, the tap sizes are so close (these aren't "form taps"), the taps cuts out the excess metal, my experience, unless he has stripped it so bad, then who knows what he's got going on. Most welding shops won't touch the engine in the frame. HeliCoil may be his only option. I've seen people use those rubber expanding plugs for years, but they ground on the threads very carefully, to end up with a smooth hole, and tightened the bejesus out of those clamps. There really is no crankcase pressure in that part of the engine. If he has someone do the repair, it won't be cheap.
Alumaloy Official Home
Alumaloy As Seen on TV! This is the Official Home of Alumaloy. You can repair Aluminum with your own propane torch. Specialty welding rods is our business.
www.alumaloy.com
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