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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought removable saddlebags for my VN900 and passenger floorboards.
The bags are K-Drive's 153K6 model, large 50L in capacity and the floorboards are Cobras, very nice and shiny.

For the bag brackets I needed to get new bolts. It came with 4 bolts of equal size and 2 out of the 4 were too short. I decide to replace them all. The bolts should be longer in the front than in the back. So I went to buy 4 new bolts but could not find exactly what I was looking for.

The original bolts were 8x60mm, plated (nice and shiny), rated at 8.8 (not sure what it means).
The replacements I bought are 8x70mm and 8x80mm not plated but stainless (so they won't look as good). On the head the writing says this: FS A4-70 on the 70mm and FS A2-70 on the 80mm (not a misprint). I don't know what all this means but I think these are "weaker".They also have hex heads like the originals. My first question is what amount of torque should I put on these?

The floorboard intructions say:" Tighten M8x25mm socket head bolts to factory specifications" Problem is they don't say what those "factory specifications" are - the head read YFS 12.9. My second question is what amount of torque should I put on these?

Lastly, the bolts I had to remove to install the brackets for the saddlebags (these bolts also hold the bracket that holds the passenger backrest in place) were installed with Red Loctite (I saw the guy do it) they were a real ***** to remove. After I find the right torque for the bolts for the floorboards and for the saddlebag brackets - third question - should I use the Red Loctite or the Blue Loctite ?

Thanks for your answers.
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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Red loctite is only for permanent assemblies. Blue is for things you may someday want to remove.

As for torque? If 8mm is the diameter, that's a diameter of 0.32" which is a pretty hefty bolt. Similar bolts on my bike torque down to about 100 inch-pounds, but that's just a guess.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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Standard torque spec for an 8mm fastener is 10-13.5 ft/lbs (100 in/lbs is a little light at 8.3)

In the future, to remove a fastener that has been secured with red Loctite, head the bolt with a soldering iron if it is in a location where it is safe to apply heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Standard torque spec for an 8mm fastener is 10-13.5 ft/lbs (100 in/lbs is a little light at 8.3)
I think 10 ft/lbs would translate into 12in/lbs roughly, right?

So these 8mm bolts could take between 120 to 162in/lbs - is that correct?
And all bolts (the 70mm, 80mm and 25mm) could take the same torque, no matter what the length is?

Thanks for your answers.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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I think 10 ft/lbs would translate into 12in/lbs roughly, right?
1ft/lb is 12in/lbs
So these 8mm bolts could take between 120 to 162in/lbs - is that correct?
And all bolts (the 70mm, 80mm and 25mm) could take the same torque, no matter what the length is?
Correct.

The service manual gives the "standard" torque settings (which assumes clean and dry threads), and those apply to all fasteners NOT listed separately. Those assemblies may be spec'd lower or higher (normally lower as they may be threaded into aluminum), though sometimes higher... the 1600's fork pinch bolts are spec'd to 14ft/lbs, which is high for an 8mm, low for a 10mm, but IIRC, they are 6mm.
Similarly, the front gearcase bolts are 6mm and 8mm, spec to 104in/lbs (8.7ft/lbs) for the 6mm (standard for 6mm is 52-69in/lbs), and the 8mm specs to 22ft/lbs... both double standard minimum torque.

Personally, I only use a torque wrench on "critical" assemblies... those that might be unusually high, or those that involve multiple fasteners in castings were EVEN torque is critical to avoid warpage and leaks (rotors, axle bolts, clutch cover, heads, etc....). For most fasteners, I go by feel, BUT, until you develop that feel, a torque wrench is a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, 1ft/lb is 12in/lbs is what I meant.

I never used to worry about torquing anything but like you said, until I develop that "feel" again I'd rather know what kind of pressure I'm applying to the thing before I strip it or break it. 100in/lbs is pretty tight so I will not worry about stripping the threads,that is more than my achy little fingers can tighten without some sort of leverage (like a good handle).
In any case I wanted to have some sort of reference point to start with.

Once again Rich, thanks for your help!!!
 

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Patriot Guardian
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Shoot - I'll take stainless over plated any day. Polish it up yourself and it will look 1000 times greater than the plated, and won't rust until long after you're dead.
However, stainless are not as strong.
They'll hold up to standard torque, but they are much softer than plated.

They'll be find for the bag brackets.
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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I think 10 ft/lbs would translate into 12in/lbs roughly, right?

So these 8mm bolts could take between 120 to 162in/lbs - is that correct?
And all bolts (the 70mm, 80mm and 25mm) could take the same torque, no matter what the length is?

Thanks for your answers.
I don't think so, if they are really short they would not handle as much because the force is spread over fewer threads.
 

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Patriot Guardian
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I don't think so, if they are really short they would not handle as much because the force is spread over fewer threads.
In most cases (unless you are threading into something soft like brass, aluminum, or potmetal), you are going to shear the head off before you actually strip the threads... or if torquing a nut, you'll snap the stud.
Think about a typical nut.... rarely more than 5 or 6 threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have mounted both the saddlebags and the floorboards to see how they looked - they look great!! However the torquing and the permanent mounting will require warmer weather :) Today I bought a tank bib which will go on when I do the rest of the work.

I will be in the Palm Springs area next week - anybody know a good shop to buy accessories (engine guard, gloves, boots, a horn, helmet etc.) ?
 
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