How do you make a KX65 faster, but stock legal?
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Faster
You can buy a little gizmo called 'Powerblade' that costs around £59. i dunno what it does but it works. you can see it here:
http://www.dirtbikestore.co.uk/acatalog/DirtBikeStore_com_PowerBlade_149.html
You can buy a little gizmo called 'Powerblade' that costs around £59. i dunno what it does but it works. you can see it here:
http://www.dirtbikestore.co.uk/acatalog/DirtBikeStore_com_PowerBlade_149.html
Sorry, no idea. When I took my son to watch the indoor motocross back in January, it seems like most of the riders in the 65 class were on KTM's. At least all of the ones out front were. I like the green bikes but am thinking about getting my son a pro junior/senior for next year, depending on his progression and desire.
I know what you mean. The KX65 is a great bike, but stock does not hold water to the speed of the KTM.
I just bought my youngest a 2004 KTM Pro Senior LC.
I think we will get a KTM 65 next.
I can not even get anyone to help get the KX faster. You should see the KTMtalk website.
I just bought my youngest a 2004 KTM Pro Senior LC.
I think we will get a KTM 65 next.
I can not even get anyone to help get the KX faster. You should see the KTMtalk website.
making little kawi's faster
i'm not sure of the ama class rules but i see no reason why gearing wouldn't be the first choice. i'm pretty sure the tranny's in the ktm's are geared different than the gear ratios in the little kx's tranny. that should give you some leverage against any rule that would state that you had to use a specific sprocket sizes.so unless power delivery itself is the main problem gearing should work just fine.??any arguments or debates from you bored kawisaki folk's.or like mutley says put the kid on a diet.
i'm not sure of the ama class rules but i see no reason why gearing wouldn't be the first choice. i'm pretty sure the tranny's in the ktm's are geared different than the gear ratios in the little kx's tranny. that should give you some leverage against any rule that would state that you had to use a specific sprocket sizes.so unless power delivery itself is the main problem gearing should work just fine.??any arguments or debates from you bored kawisaki folk's.or like mutley says put the kid on a diet.
My kid weights 65 pounds, that isn't the problem. He also has better clutch control than most novice/intermediate riders.
You can gear all you want, legally. He is geared low enough that he starts in second gear. Just don't seem to get as much power as the KTM's. He pretty much doesn't have a chance on the start against the stock KTM's
Now his modified KX is a different story. So I know it's not the rider.
You can gear all you want, legally. He is geared low enough that he starts in second gear. Just don't seem to get as much power as the KTM's. He pretty much doesn't have a chance on the start against the stock KTM's
Now his modified KX is a different story. So I know it's not the rider.
Gearing
Gearing is probably one of the most important things to do. not only the countershaft sprocket but the rear sprocket as well. If you are not usig first and starting out in second then you obviously have the wrong gears on the bike. I raced a 175 Kawasaki 2 stroke on a real rrace track and in the end I was actually beating the other 175's and one of the two Honda Elsinores. Changing over to Synthetic AMSOIL 2 stroke oil and actually putting a splash of it in the tank will improve compression. get your carb set perfectly for the pipe and you can actually change the timing of your pipe (like karting does by adding in a piece of pipe between the motor and header pipe...lengthing or shortening it makes a big difference using the same expansion chamber. Seriously you can send a new pipe in and have it thermal barrier coated inside and it will improve performance as the gasses flow quicker and heat is not retained in the pipe. There are dry film lubricants that are applied electronically, do a little research. Then too tires and tire pressure play a very important role in performance. Make sure you find the lightest sprockets and chain...soak you chains in hot parafin wax then pull them out and let them hang to cool off and pull the parifine wax inside and have several chains, get rid of any dead weight that you are allowed to get rid of...can you get lighter tires or wheels...polishing the carbs inside for better airflow, use a K&N airfilter, find out if the front forks are bottoming out (use a nylon zip-strip) for measure in movement. same thing as the rear shock (you may have to change the fork springs or oil viscosity) is it illegal to run a 12Vdc muffin fan inside your airbox for extra bottom end...instead of having idle set at 1500RPM do what the big boys on the race track do and set you idle so that you have very little lag throttle power curve, increase it to 3,000 rpm you have a clutch and brake...If you are allowed remove the sponge foam seat and use the closed cell foam white stuff used in boats. 1" of the foam = about 4 inches of the yellow bike foam...
Gearing is probably one of the most important things to do. not only the countershaft sprocket but the rear sprocket as well. If you are not usig first and starting out in second then you obviously have the wrong gears on the bike. I raced a 175 Kawasaki 2 stroke on a real rrace track and in the end I was actually beating the other 175's and one of the two Honda Elsinores. Changing over to Synthetic AMSOIL 2 stroke oil and actually putting a splash of it in the tank will improve compression. get your carb set perfectly for the pipe and you can actually change the timing of your pipe (like karting does by adding in a piece of pipe between the motor and header pipe...lengthing or shortening it makes a big difference using the same expansion chamber. Seriously you can send a new pipe in and have it thermal barrier coated inside and it will improve performance as the gasses flow quicker and heat is not retained in the pipe. There are dry film lubricants that are applied electronically, do a little research. Then too tires and tire pressure play a very important role in performance. Make sure you find the lightest sprockets and chain...soak you chains in hot parafin wax then pull them out and let them hang to cool off and pull the parifine wax inside and have several chains, get rid of any dead weight that you are allowed to get rid of...can you get lighter tires or wheels...polishing the carbs inside for better airflow, use a K&N airfilter, find out if the front forks are bottoming out (use a nylon zip-strip) for measure in movement. same thing as the rear shock (you may have to change the fork springs or oil viscosity) is it illegal to run a 12Vdc muffin fan inside your airbox for extra bottom end...instead of having idle set at 1500RPM do what the big boys on the race track do and set you idle so that you have very little lag throttle power curve, increase it to 3,000 rpm you have a clutch and brake...If you are allowed remove the sponge foam seat and use the closed cell foam white stuff used in boats. 1" of the foam = about 4 inches of the yellow bike foam...
Making your kx faster !!
I HAVE JUST READ YOUR MESSAGES AND I I SEE THAT YOU NEED TO MAKE YOUR SONS KX FASTER. I AM 15 AND RIDE MOTOCROSS MYSELF. A FRIEND OF MINE HAS A YZ85 RACETUNED AND HE HAS NOT LONG COME BACK FROM AUSTRALIA AND HE SAID THAT YOU CAN BUY A RACE BLEND FUEL THAT MAKES THE POWERBANDS GIVE TWICE THE KICK. HE HAD SOME IMPORTED AN IT MAKES A HELL OF A DIFFERANCE. I HOPE YOU FIND A SOLUTION TO YOUR PROBLEMS. THANKS FOR READIN
Sted_ed
I HAVE JUST READ YOUR MESSAGES AND I I SEE THAT YOU NEED TO MAKE YOUR SONS KX FASTER. I AM 15 AND RIDE MOTOCROSS MYSELF. A FRIEND OF MINE HAS A YZ85 RACETUNED AND HE HAS NOT LONG COME BACK FROM AUSTRALIA AND HE SAID THAT YOU CAN BUY A RACE BLEND FUEL THAT MAKES THE POWERBANDS GIVE TWICE THE KICK. HE HAD SOME IMPORTED AN IT MAKES A HELL OF A DIFFERANCE. I HOPE YOU FIND A SOLUTION TO YOUR PROBLEMS. THANKS FOR READIN
Sted_ed
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