[tiltedhugh]

I am a first time motorcycle owner and am starting my first project bike.
My goal for this summer is to get it cleaned up, running smoothley and well tuned. If I can get it running well enough I will break it down this winter and give a go at fully restoring her with new paint, and chrome.

I had to install a new ignition switch, points, plugs and after that I got it started. I can imagine it needs the carbs cleaned but before I undergo that I am noticing a problem with the transmission/clutch.

Maybe someone can help me trouble shoot? It seems to leave neutral alright but it barely wants to roll forward in 1st gear. and after first I cant seem to find any other gears ... I am a new street bike rider, but have ridden dirtbikes and don't feel the shifting problems are my own... should I start with removing the clutch cover to see what lies beneath? should I start with new fluids to lube it up?

I hope this is the place to ask questions, I have been looking for an online community to help me out but have yet to find an active one.

_hugh

 

[woundwort]

Lets list every thing we can find from the outside of the engine first.

1.
A: IS the clutch lever hard at any one point in drawing it in?

B: is it smooth all the way in with relative tension the same all the way in, slightly harder most the way engaged usually?

2. Can you ride it or have someone if you are unable to street test it.
Does it slip, rev in gear with out much umphhhh in take off?

On my bike just yesterday I was experiencing hard lever action on my clutch.
Removed cable and started spaying some cleaning solven only to notice it had a spot of rust on it.

On inspection I found the cable had been close to the exhaust and the heat melted a hole in the plastic cable covering allowing it to rust the steel sheath to bind the cable. Clutch action was hard and dumpy and very dangerous.

I was gonna carb clean it and blow it clean then finish off with my favorit dry lube. But decided instead to order another cable from my local dealer. supporting them and allowing me to see that cute young lady behind the parts desk $26 but also online for $13 but shipping would kill the savings.

Get us a pic of it now in it's rough condition too. Now and laters are great.

 

[tiltedhugh]

I just replaced the clutch lever today... it was cracked before.
I wasn't sure how much tension it should have, but it does pull evenly the whole way and a click can be heard towards the end of the pull.

I have not street tested it, but I have gone through some gears on the center kick with the rear wheel lifted up.

At this point I am worried. From a start, with the neutral light green, I can go down into first and the wheel will spin. I can sometimes get it into second, but at any given time there will be a click like it falls out of gear. neutral becomes extremely hard to find, but none of the gears I click into spin the wheel, it is like no gear will catch.

It won't spin until I can find neutral again (green light and all) and start with going down into first.

I might add after the slipping it can take me up to ten minutes to finally get it back into neutral.

FYI: I took the little clutch cap off (two screws holding the smal triangular cover) and it was bone dry in there and the adjustment bolt is pretty rusty.
Not sure what its supposed to be like in there but that troubled me.

_hugh

p.s. Ill get a picture up soon.

 

[woundwort]

Well, at all cost try to avoid crunchy sounds but I say ride it around the block if you count yourself as a confident rider, even lacking a few or more years recent experience.

Also, Get a Clymers manual for it before tackling ANYTHING.

PS You might want to repost this into the MECHANICS corner if you have not already.

I freed up my old bound up clutch cable because it will be such a NICE day out for riding. As soon as the new one is in though the old one goes to the trash.

Anyway, hope you get to get some riding done as you go through this bike.

 

[tiltedhugh]

Thanks for your replies.
I took your advice and posted it into the mechanics forum.
There isn't an after market manual for the 1978 KZ750 so I have been eyeing original shop manuals that show up on EBAY.
I hope to get one soon. I have the carb kits I need and a tune up kit but don't want to do that stuff without some instruction. Although at this point I should probably wait till my gears work
_hugh

 

[Biquetoast]

...There isn't an after market manual for the 1978 KZ750 so I have been eyeing original shop manuals that show up on EBAY.
I hope to get one soon....

I believe the book you are after is the Kawasaki Service Manual for the '76 - '79 KZ750B, part #99997-744-04...
It is an awesome manual and will make all the difference in the world to your troubleshooting. If you cannot find it on eBay...

click here

...to buy it for $37 from Kawasaki....
8)

 

[elr658]

Also Kawasakis of that vintage have a "Positive Neutral Finder" Unless you are RIDING IT, it won't shift to second.

 

[beardking]

Thanks for your replies.
I took your advice and posted it into the mechanics forum.
There isn't an after market manual for the 1978 KZ750 so I have been eyeing original shop manuals that show up on EBAY.
I hope to get one soon. I have the carb kits I need and a tune up kit but don't want to do that stuff without some instruction. Although at this point I should probably wait till my gears work
_hugh

Not to try to screw Kawasaki out of any money or anything, but you might try looking here . That's where I got the service manual for my KZ750 Twin. You can find manuals for the Quad all over the place, but the one for the Twin's is an elusive little thing.