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Discussion Starter #1
so my bike started slippin under heavy heavy acceleration in second gear sometime last summer. it got worse until i was unable to use the gear at all. get it up to 4 or 5k rpms and it falls back to neutral. i've been riding it that way ever since, just skipping 2nd second gear. so, now that it's winter (although still not cold enough to keep me from riding) I've decided to tear it apart and try to fix it. this should be fun... just wondered if anyone's done this before and had any pointers or gotchas.

i think the problem is worn gear dogs. the bike has 20k miles on it, and has always been notchy going from 1st to second. after researching the problem, i think that i was probably not positive enough with my shifting, although it's almost impossible to go from 1st to second under heavy acceleration without some chatter. anyway, i'm gonna install the factory pro shift thing and hope that helps that problem.

so, i'm now at the point where it's time to drop the engine. anybody got any advice on how to do that? i've got a couple of floor jacks i'm gonna try to use to lower it. i'm just worried about it not being balanced and falling off. how heavy is it gonna be? think me and two dudes can ease it down with those floor jacks and manuever it onto some plywood?

and what about that castle nut? anybody know if napa or anybody's got a wrench to fit it? what size?
 

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Navy Vet Search & Rescue
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Don't know the exact weight but just figure on more than 100 but less than 200. With 1 on each side to keep it balanced and one operating the jack it shouldn't be a problem.
 

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I had an 05 ZX6r engine shipped to me on a pallet. Moved it to the garage by myself. It shouldn't be a problem dropping it with another person. Watch out for the oil pan...Our ZX7 engine was a beast to deal with.
 

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i thought i had a simlar problem and called a shop for en estimate. 2000 was what he said. If you aren't that mechanically inclined it might not be a good idea to try this yourself. A mechanic can modify the transmission so that the problem won't happen again.
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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so my bike started slippin under heavy heavy acceleration in second gear sometime last summer. it got worse until i was unable to use the gear at all. get it up to 4 or 5k rpms and it falls back to neutral. i've been riding it that way ever since, just skipping 2nd second gear. so, now that it's winter (although still not cold enough to keep me from riding) I've decided to tear it apart and try to fix it. this should be fun... just wondered if anyone's done this before and had any pointers or gotchas.

i think the problem is worn gear dogs. the bike has 20k miles on it, and has always been notchy going from 1st to second. after researching the problem, i think that i was probably not positive enough with my shifting, although it's almost impossible to go from 1st to second under heavy acceleration without some chatter. anyway, i'm gonna install the factory pro shift thing and hope that helps that problem.

so, i'm now at the point where it's time to drop the engine. anybody got any advice on how to do that? i've got a couple of floor jacks i'm gonna try to use to lower it. i'm just worried about it not being balanced and falling off. how heavy is it gonna be? think me and two dudes can ease it down with those floor jacks and manuever it onto some plywood?

and what about that castle nut? anybody know if napa or anybody's got a wrench to fit it? what size?

Have you got the factory service manual for your bike? When I looked at what all was involved in splitting the case and diddling with the gears in my 750 it gave me the willies.
 

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Yep as Bountyhunter says a Service Manual is the First Tool you need to make sure is in your possession before even considering a tear down of this complexity..

Whilst your in there make sure you replace the 3 shifter forks as a matter of course.
Make sure you get the correct Kawasaki bond (92104-1064) for sealing the crankcase halves.

The castleated tool for removing the locking rings can be easily fabricated using an old socket and cutting out the corrsponding sections so the socket slots into the cutouts on the locking ring.

Get a drift and tap the locking ring round so it lossens spin it undone, Remove it then use it as a template to modify the old socket, I have done this on occasion when the special tool was unavaliable.

You only need the Tool to Torque the locking ring back up on instillation..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
10-4 on the manual. I downloaded one off of another forum a year or two ago. and good call on the castlenut - i was able to drop the engine without the special tool, but i may need it for reinstallation.

but the kawasaki bond... really? that stuff was like $60 for a tube of it ( i only saw it from one place, maybe a better price somewhere). seems pretty steep to me. the bike shop guy told me to use some engine sealant call "1104" or something like that. is the kawasaki bond really the only stuff to use?

right now i'm stuck waiting on a flywheel puller to come in...

and bountyhunter, yep it gives me the willies too, but just imagine taking it to the shop, and they give your bike to the dude making ten bucks an hour, hand him some wrenches, and tell him to dismantle your bike... no one cares about her like i do!
 

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The Kawi bond is expensive and is the only one i have used and to be honest it's the only one i will use as i don't wanna give another one a go and find out after all that hard work it don't do the job..

If it's what Kawi tells me to use that's good enough for me :)

Cause let's face it your only gonna find out when she's up and running..Ouch !!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
point taken. i spose i would rather come off $60 than another couple weeks tearing my bike apart again...
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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and bountyhunter, yep it gives me the willies too, but just imagine taking it to the shop, and they give your bike to the dude making ten bucks an hour, hand him some wrenches, and tell him to dismantle your bike... no one cares about her like i do!
I hear you on that, and that's why I spent weeks rebuilding the engine on my 750 twin even though I could have afforded to have it done. But Dirty Harry said "A good man has got to know his limitations.."

and when I looked at what was involved at splitting the case to get to the main bearings, I knew I had reached mine.
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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but the kawasaki bond... really? that stuff was like $60 for a tube of it ( i only saw it from one place, maybe a better price somewhere). seems pretty steep to me. the bike shop guy told me to use some engine sealant call "1104" or something like that. is the kawasaki bond really the only stuff to use?
My kawi dealer also sells Yamahas. I shot the bull with the service guys for a while and they said that there is a Yamaha RTV adhesive they use to seal the halves of engines and trannies and it was about $30 for a little tube. I passed on it because of the price, but it's better than $60.

I had really good service from the black RTV sealant called "Ultra Hi-TEMP Black" or something like that. Bonds dead tight and stayed flexible until the next time I had to remove it.

YMMV
 

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AZ's Official Mechanic
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30$ for a tube of bond ? maybe for the big tube that goes in the cualking guns but i guy kaw/honda/yamabond all the time for like 4$-7$ a tube at my dealers. hmmmm
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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30$ for a tube of bond ? maybe for the big tube that goes in the cualking guns but i guy kaw/honda/yamabond all the time for like 4$-7$ a tube at my dealers. hmmmm
I don't remember the name of it, but it was some kind of special Yamaha bond ATV their service guys used exclusively.... I would too if I could stick the cost to somebody else (the customer). It came in a small tube.
 

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Riding daily
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Good luck with the fix. You should post pics as your working on it to let us know your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If he can fiix a tranny, his forum tag should immediately be promoted to "master mechanic"...... not "still on the kickstand".:p
**** come on guys have a little faith! i think i can, i think i can...

haven't touched it in about a week now, but i'm ready to split the case tonight. wish me luck.
 

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A little tip..Before splitting ..

Make a sketch of the top and bottom views of the Crankcases noting on the sketch where the bolts are, Then measure the lengths and sizes of the bolts as you remove them prior to splitting the crankcase halves and make a note on the sketch.

Keep the Top and Bottom sets of bolts separate cause you'll need to insert them fairly rapidly and get the Cases Torqued down before the Kwak bond goes off.
Check in the Instructions for your Bond on how long you've got to complete the task as some of Kawasaki Bond is as short as FIVE Mins from application to Torqued down whereas others allow you an eternity, Don't ask me why there different cause I've never gotten into the Debate with kwak.:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
A little tip..Before splitting ..

Make a sketch of the top and bottom views of the Crankcases noting on the sketch where the bolts are, Then measure the lengths and sizes of the bolts as you remove them prior to splitting the crankcase halves and make a note on the sketch.

Keep the Top and Bottom sets of bolts separate cause you'll need to insert them fairly rapidly and get the Cases Torqued down before the Kwak bond goes off.
Check in the Instructions for your Bond on how long you've got to complete the task as some of Kawasaki Bond is as short as FIVE Mins from application to Torqued down whereas others allow you an eternity, Don't ask me why there different cause I've never gotten into the Debate with kwak.:mad:

that's a good tip. thanks! will everything sit tight inside the case when i crack it open? nothing gonna come flying out? no springs or anything? crack er open while the engine is in the upside down position?
 
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