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Discussion Starter #1
i just bought a 93 kx 250 it was running fine but i took it out the last weekend and the kick start got stuck it wont go down...is that gonna be expensive can some one help me or maybe can tell me whats wrong and what i might need to replace...thanks my email adress is [email protected]
 

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First thing to check is if the bike when in gear will move the piston in the stroke. If not then it could be the top end or bottom end bearing. You can also drain the oil and remove the right side engine cover and see what is going on in there. If no metal chunks or flakes are present then who knows without loooking.
 

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Like he said, see if the crank will turn by having it in gear and giving it a push. It sounds like a locked up engine...but that's the worst case. Sometimes the kick start gear gets jammed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i put it in first and it didnt move isnt that normal tho? i left in first and then hold the clutch and even with the clutch on it still kind of drags...how do i check if the piston is moving tho or crank or whatever you said lol?
 

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If you put the bike in gear and with the clutch pulled in alittle drag is good adn you should hear the hissing and suction from the piston moving in the bore. Then if that's the case alls needed is drain the oil and remove the right side engine cover and inspect the innards to see what might be binding the kicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
wich side would be better to listen for the hissing? another question after i drain the oil what kind of oil should i put in there
 

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Discussion Starter #7
is there any other way i can turn it on just to make sure its not the motor you think maybe if i push start it?
 

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You can push start it but if something is binding with the kicker shaft you could cause major damage under that right side case cover that will make it's way into the trans area. I strongly suggest removing the right side cover and inspecting everything in their making sure nothing is broken or binding. Run type F trans fluid in the transmission and change it every other ride. I know you want to get it running but I'm telling you this from experience it could cost you more money later if you try to start it than inspecting it and making sure it's okay. If it looks okay then by all means start it up. Go to your local MC shop and or ebay and buy a service manual or a Clymer book and it will help you out with the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i havent got a chance to open the the side casing yet i opened the casing where the clutches are located but i have to open the casing thats behind the gear casing right? before i do that is there anything i should watch out for like a spring or any crazy that might pop out?
 

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i havent got a chance to open the the side casing yet i opened the casing where the clutches are located but i have to open the casing thats behind the gear casing right? before i do that is there anything i should watch out for like a spring or any crazy that might pop out?
The only thing I forgot other than draining the oil is the coolant. There are no springs or anything like that under that cover. There are tabs on the left and right side of the cover for your fingers when pulling the cover off. Place your left thumb on the kicker shaft and pull the cover straight off. A little hint you can do is lay the bike on it's left side getting the rear wheel off the ground, remove the plug, put the bike in 1st gear and either spin the rear wheel yourself or have someone do it for you and watch the gears and clutch basket and check to see if it's all spinning freely or is one binding on the other.
 

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1. removing just the clutch cover, nothing flies.
2. When you remove the entire r/s case cover. do it step by step. which involves step 3.
3. BUY A MANUAL.
4. don't bother buying gaskets. they're a waste of money, instead, buy this
http://www.permatex.com/products/au.../Permatex_Super_300_Form-A-Gasket_Sealant.htm

Run a light bead, using the brush. It won't stick bad when removing again and it peels off with your finger nail. Just make 100% sure you remove ALL the old gasket from the case and cover before replacing cover again. or you will have a leak

4. Be sure to drain all fluids. Coolant in the tranny isn't kewl. The gears really don't like water.

Then while you're at it, buy a decent dial caliper (@ $25) and you can mic your clutch friction plates and get the minimum service specs in the manual. That way you can get frustrated, ( great..more money...DAMMIT) like me, and know that's just something else you need to buy so you don't have to tear it apart again later.
 

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OH, instead of pushing it in gear and listening for the hissing, take out your plug and push it. If it moves, you're motor is NOT locked up, if it doesn't...ahhhhh.... start worrying. But like FPMXer said, you might wanna tear into it before you start forcing things to move.
 
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