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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've decided I'd like to buy a Vulcan 800. (not a classic or drifter)

Where could I find some info on model changes and differences from year to year? I've also seen reference to 800A and 800B bikes. What does the A and B mean?

I like the new ones, but wouldn't mind saving some money by buying an older one. Which year was this model started?

Thanks for any help in advance.
 

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Welcome to the forum. I believe the first year for the Vulcan 800 was 1995. I own a 2003 Vulcan 800A. The only difference I know of between the A and B are the fenders and the size of the front tire. The 800B is the classic. The 800A has the bobbed rear fender, 21 inch front wheel. It has the hard tail appearance.

I bought mine used (1 year old) with only 600+ miles on it, first service done, Vance & Hines cruzers, it came with stock exhaust, a battery tender, and a new, never worn helmet, he bought it for his wife and she wouldn't ride with him. I saved well over $2000.00, plus the cost of the extras i mentioned. I had been looking at the new 2004 when I found this bike for sale.
I'm sure others will tell any differences i might have missed, or gotten wrong.
Good Luck and Ride safe!
 

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I know the handlebars are different. thats about the only other thing I can think of. Oh, the paint schemes are different.

I think you will love the bike, not matter what year it is.

LJ
 

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Ace said:
I've decided I'd like to buy a Vulcan 800. (not a classic or drifter)

Where could I find some info on model changes and differences from year to year? I've also seen reference to 800A and 800B bikes. What does the A and B mean?

I like the new ones, but wouldn't mind saving some money by buying an older one. Which year was this model started?

Thanks for any help in advance.
The B is the classic with the fat front tire and big fender, the A is the chopper style with the 21 inch front tire and bobbed rear fender. The engine is the same in both. There has not been many changes in the 800 since the first except they change colors each year. It's a great bike, and with a few mods can be even better.

bluestringer
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, thanks for the help so far, it's the 800A that I'm interested in. I plan to customize it, so I'm not concerned with the stock seat, bars, pipes or paint, but how about the differences in the chassis, drivetrain and bodywork between 95 and 2005?
 

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GREAT choice of bike! (proud owner speaking :)) I bought my 800A new for $5700 + $1000 in accessories. My friend bought an 800B used for $4200 and it already had $700 in accessories. His bike looks just as new as mine and he spent considerably less. If I could've found a deal as good as his, I would've bought used. Accessories depreciate like 90% as soon as you put them on so if you find a used one in good condition with some accessories you like already on it, you'll make out like a fat rat.

If you buy new, I highly recommend buying it with new pipes. If you don't, you'll definitely want to later and it'll be hard forkin out the cash (pipes are not cheap). When you add pipes, you have to rejet it (tweak the fuel and air flow). You'll also have to rejet it if you get a different air intake (for better performance). Bottom line, you should get pipes when you buy it and you should decide now if you want to upgrade the performance with a better air intake before you have the pipes installed. (You could do the air intake later but then you'll have to pay the $75 or so to have it rejetted again).

Ask your dealer about the "Thunder Kit". It will signifcantly increase the performance of the bike. A lot of us here have it and we rave about the difference. :)

My dad and I have advised a lot of friends and friends of friends on buying bikes and our philosphy has been to include any expensive accessories in the loan when you buy the bike but without the "extra" inexpensive goodies you'd "like" to have. That way, your payment is lower and you'll have fun adding toys down the road without breakin your wallet. :)

Let us know when you bring her home...
 

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Slicks has told you about the pipes an intake, about the only thing I can add is that you'll want to change out the front an /or rear sprockets to lower the rpm's on the superslab. The 800 is a great choice an it's as quick as most of the big bore bikes. The A is also quicker than the B model<BG> (just kidding B owners).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Another question: I've only sat on a stock bike, but I found that I was cramped in legroom. I'm 6'-2" and would like some extended forward controls.
I've only found these,Jardine Forward Controls, but they seem pretty expensive, and I'd like to know if these would be extended far enough to make a more comfortable ride. Any suggestions and/or alternatives?
 

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Ace said:
Another question: I've only sat on a stock bike, but I found that I was cramped in legroom. I'm 6'-2" and would like some extended forward controls.
I've only found these,Jardine Forward Controls, but they seem pretty expensive, and I'd like to know if these would be extended far enough to make a more comfortable ride. Any suggestions and/or alternatives?
I put Cobra floorboards on mine. And a Cobra freeway bar with Kuraykyn highway pegs. I love the floorboards, they are big and you can move your feet around a lot, they helped me, but I'm only 5' 10".

bluestringer
 

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Forward controls would greatly improve the comfort for longer legs. I'd like to get them for my bike but like you, I've only seen the jardines and they are costly. I'd also like to know of alternatives.
 

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hey guys check out cruiser customizing they've got some made by mapam I think is the name. there a little cheaper, they don't extend forward as much but they don't raise your feet up either. (which the jardines do) There's another brand also but I'll have to do some research for the web site tonight when I have a little more time. I'll post it when I find it . I do remember there only about $250 for the chrome an $150 for the black. I went ahead an found the site it's www.cbcustoms.com They've also got alot of other custom parts for the 800 as well.
 

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When I bought my 2005 Vulcan A model on Sept 1, 2004, I had them put a Van & Hines exhaust and a K&N filter on it, they insisted because of the particular model, it DID NOT have to jetted nor dynoed (they said the 1500 and above). They are a top standing reputable dealer here in Arizona, I believe them, don't think they would try to save 40 - 60 bucks in labor to ruin my engine, I also have an extended warranty, Slick, no disrespect intended but don't think that is necessary, Doc.

Talked to the service manager tonight, it WAS jetted, I wasn't told, salesman's fault, Docl
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All carburated engines need to be jetted and tuned even when brand new and unmodified. They are all delivered with the same setup, and due to our different elevations and temperatures, the bike will require a custom setup.

This doesn't mean your engine will necessarily be damaged by improper tuning, but it could very well run more efficiently and with more power with the right adjustments.
 

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If you are just changing pipes, then there is no need for a rejet. If you do an air mod, then yes you must rejet and change pipes. Remember, more in, you must let it out. It does help to adjust the pilot screw when changing pipes to keep it from running too lean.

bluestringer
 

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Doc2003Cobra said:
When I bought my 2005 Vulcan A model on Sept 1, 2004, I had them put a Van & Hines exhaust and a K&N filter on it, they insisted because of the particular model, it DID NOT have to jetted nor dynoed (they said the 1500 and above). They are a top standing reputable dealer here in Arizona, I believe them, don't think they would try to save 40 - 60 bucks in labor to ruin my engine, I also have an extended warranty, Slick, no disrespect intended but don't think that is necessary, Doc.
I can't understand why your bike shop would've said that. The air/fuel mixture is set from the factory based on the stock pipes and air filter. Changing the pipes and/or air intake will change the air/fuel mixture and rejetting is required to restore it to the optimum ratio. They were right in saying it's not "necessary" because it won't "hurt" the engine but as Ace said, your engine isn't burning fuel as efficiently as it could be. If you rejetted it, I bet you'd see a performance improvement.

The whole subject has me curious so now I'm gonna have to pay a visit to the local Kaw shop and get the straight skinny. :)
 

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woodchucks800 said:
hey guys check out cruiser customizing they've got some made by mapam I think is the name. there a little cheaper, they don't extend forward as much but they don't raise your feet up either. (which the jardines do) There's another brand also but I'll have to do some research for the web site tonight when I have a little more time. I'll post it when I find it . I do remember there only about $250 for the chrome an $150 for the black. I went ahead an found the site it's www.cbcustoms.com They've also got alot of other custom parts for the 800 as well.
Thanks Woodchuck!
 

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Slicks said:
Thanks Woodchuck!

I Just told you, they rejetted it, (words from the service manger), what else do you want? Doc.
 

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Slicks said:
I can't understand why your bike shop would've said that. The air/fuel mixture is set from the factory based on the stock pipes and air filter. Changing the pipes and/or air intake will change the air/fuel mixture and rejetting is required to restore it to the optimum ratio. They were right in saying it's not "necessary" because it won't "hurt" the engine but as Ace said, your engine isn't burning fuel as efficiently as it could be. If you rejetted it, I bet you'd see a performance improvement.

The whole subject has me curious so now I'm gonna have to pay a visit to the local Kaw shop and get the straight skinny. :)
I Was missinformed by my salesperson, also on the finance rate, but I confirmed today, by Dave ( Service manager), I have met him, up front, cool guy, but by the records my bike WAS rejetted, he looked it up on the records, says we "always rejet any bike with aftermarker exhausts". so, I feel better, especially with an extended warranty, this fricker runs great, hang in there Slick you bag, lol, thanks, Doc.
 

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Ace, I have the forward controls on my 800A made by Mapam-Restyling. Bought them from Cruiser Customizing for $400 plus shipping. After I bought them from CC I remember seeing them on another site for about $40 less. I'm 6" and have long legs. The F/C's did the trick for me. I've had 5 different bikes in my life (none of them with F/C's) and with Mapam F/C's on the 800 I have the most leg room of any of them. They look good, are easy to install, designed will and fit like a glove. As Woodchuck said, they move your foot position about 2.5" forward and not up any. I've read reviews on the Jardines and many have said they raise the foot position quite a bit. To me raising the foot position is about as bad as having a cramped leg position. When you first sit on the bike after installing the F/C's you will be amazed at the difference in feel. One thing is I think they might eliminate the possibility of an engine guard. To me, the leg room is worth that sacrifice.
 

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Doc,
It sounds like you ran into the same type of problem that I did when I bought my 2002. The salesmen don't communicate with the mechanics!..

Ace,,, this is something to be cautious of when you buy your bike. If you have any technical questions about the bike itself, talk to the mechanics. Not the salesman.

What happened to me had to do with the 600 mile check-up. The salesman told me that it would cost $125, and "had to be done by a Kawi dealer or it would void the warranty"... I dropped the bike off, and the next day I got a call saying that the total of the bill was $272. When I asked the mechanic why it wasn't $125, he said that "they are required by Kawi to do the Gold Package for the first servicing". I went up front and confronted the salesman, and his response was "oh,,, sorry about that"....
 
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