[Tsukasa]

2005 VN2000
13000 Kms

Anyone had this problem yet?
The neutral light won't come on after engine is hot (approx 15mins riding). The transmission actually goes into neutral so the issue isn't there. Once the bike has cooled down it works okay. I'm a licensed mechanic so I figured I would delve into the problem.
According to the Kawasaki service manual there is a "gear position switch" inside the right side transmission cover. This switch provides input to the injection computer so it can adjust fuel and ignition depending what gear the transmission is in. I decided to test the switch as it should provide a ground when the transmission is in neutral. Sure enough it's open circuit when the bike is hot and closed when it's cooled down.
So I'm guessing that either the switch is bad or there is a mechanical problem with the transmission that is not activating the switch when the transmission is hot. I'm hoping it is the switch.
I tried googling to see if anyone ever had this issue yet but no luck. I'm always nervous of my diagnosis when I'm the first one to have a particular problem.
Any input anyone has is appreciated.
I've ordered the switch and if it fixes the problem I will update here so everyone will know.

Also, it looks like a crappy job to do!

 

[MFolks]

Simple things first! check the light bulb and the connections from the neutral switch. On most Kawasaki's, a bullet connector goes to the switch from a harness. Check for corrosion in the electrical connector(s).

 

[V2000]

I know this is year old post , and Tsukasa apparently has not posted any others, but my 2004 V2000 just started the same as his problem, can not get into neutral when the engine is hot, goes in fine when cold,connections are all good so might be gear switch.

Wondering if any others have had similar issue.
thanks
Ed

 

[OzJavelin]

I've got the same issue with an '82 GPz750R1, so it's not just "newer" bikes with this problem ..

 

[V2000]

The only common thing when my does it is: when the engine is warm problem, when cool no problem. Which would lead me to believe some type of electrical breakdown and not mechanical.

 

[MFolks]

I'd suggest cleaning all related electrical connectors(bullet style, and the square and rectangular ones too.) Use a plastic safe cleaner. I use a brand called "De-oxit" made in the U.S by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is caig.com - Home of DeoxIT - CAIG Laboratories, Inc. I use it on light bulb sockets,switches and all electrical connectors on my 82 GPz1100 B2. In the U.S., the Radio Shack Stores sell it and I'd imagine any good electronic supply store should carry it also.

It also reduces/eliminates any corrosion/noise on my entertainment center's patch cords for better signal responce. The cordless phone charging cradles get a yearly cleaning and a light application with some De-oxit on a cotton swab too.

 

[V2000]

Thanks Mike
I'll try that

 

[MFolks]

Another thought is possibly a wire or two is routed so insulation is damaged(or the conductor is broken inside the insulation making for an imtermittent connection) I'd get a multimeter and do some continuity checks while flexing the related wiring and connectors.

It's not uncommon to have a bad electrical crimp or two show up after a few years are on the machine.The headlight housings are a prime example of connectors jammed together that can fail/become intermittent over time.

 

[Yorkie]

Not an electrical fault - it's a small spring that fails.

Google search:

I recently had my gear position sensor or Neutral switch replaced because it was failing. Now it works about 70% of the time. I called the shop, and they told me that there was also a pin and a spring that they should have replaced, and they ordered the parts to do that.

You can stretch the spring yourself and save the money on any replacement parts. Now with that being said, its a small spring and doesnt need to be pulled straight, increase the length of it uncompressed by 25% and that should be more than sufficiant.

I forgot to update this. They got the spring replaced in my N switch in about 45 minutes at the shop, no cost to me since they missed it the first time. Now it works 100% of the time. I'd say follow the instructions and stretch out the spring in there until it starts failing again and just replace it at that point.

 

[Terrys 04 VN2000]

After doing all the things that were suggested in all the various forums out there I still had the same problem. Short of biting the bullet and taking it to the shop I read through the manual one more time. In doing so I noticed the the oil that the guy I bought it from, and continued to use as he recommended didn't seem to have all the requirements the manual stated. So I went to the store and read the contents of most of the recommended oils (according to owners) and the best match for Rotella T4. After I switched over and road it about a thousand miles I got back and have maintained a working neutral light. The engine and transmission sound much smoother now as well.

 

[rbentnail]

After doing all the things that were suggested in all the various forums out there I still had the same problem. Short of biting the bullet and taking it to the shop I read through the manual one more time. In doing so I noticed the the oil that the guy I bought it from, and continued to use as he recommended didn't seem to have all the requirements the manual stated. So I went to the store and read the contents of most of the recommended oils (according to owners) and the best match for Rotella T4. After I switched over and road it about a thousand miles I got back and have maintained a working neutral light. The engine and transmission sound much smoother now as well.

Some folks swear by some oils and will never try anything else. Glad you did! Every bike is different.