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I have been having some clutch troubles, on my 1983 KZ650 CSR I was having trouble adjusting the clutch so it would fully release I asked a couple questions about it here http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/f...how-does-clutch-work-second-how-do-i-fix.html and got the answer of "Change your clutch cable" I finaly got around to installing my new cable and that's not the problem.

The clutch just doesn't seem to want to release.



I can turn the clutch adjusting screw (#92009) until I feel resistance, and I can feel that little bit of resistance at the handle... it feels similar to the clutch on my car, a little resistance over the range of motion. However this does not disengage my clutch.

Now I can keep turning my clutch adjusting screw to push the clutch release (#13102) closer to the engine block. I will loose pretty much all slack in my cable and have to keep turning the clutch adjusting screw quite a ways to get to a point of very heavy resistance.

I only managed this once, but I got the clutch to fully disengage with a very heavy resistance on the clutch lever (My preference was to hold the clutch lever with two hands to keep the clutch out) however this state didn't last to long. I soon heard a POP and lost all tension in the cable. I had presumed the cable had snapped, but after going in there to check on things, and seeing the cable unbroken, I think the Clutch Release was pulled so far forward by the cable that the Clutch Ball Bearings (#92045) popped out of their sockets so the Clutch Release turned a third of a rotation... eliminating all tension on my cable.

I haven't been able to reproduce this level of tension. I can't get the Clutch to release anymore, I've turned the clutch adjusting screw so far that the Clutch Release Cam (#13119) Pops out of it's keyed housing... and again I loose all slack on the cable.

This brings us to my two questions:

Is the pressure required to release the clutch supposed to be so high? If not, what could be causing that pressure? How do I fix it?

If the clutch pressure is supposed to be pretty high, is it Ok to shove a shim in between the Clutch Push Rod (#13116A) and the Clutch Release (#13102)? I was thinking a cut off screw head, just a thick disk (The whole assembly sticks out of it's housing almost two tenths of an inch before the Clutch Ball Bearings pop out of their keyed way... meaning I need a thick spacer.) The disk would be the same diameter as the Clutch Push Rod to fit in it's hole, and I think that would fix my problem. I can't really figure out what other solution would fix this problem. Even replacement parts don't really seem to be the solution... what would I replace to get that extra 2 tenths of an inch of travel?
 

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Part # 13102 is similar if not the same on my 82 GPZ1100 B2. One day I was replacing the clutch cable and noticed excessive "play " in the mechanism.

Upon further investigation I noticed the pivot that the cable went into was wearing oblong. I drilled out the rivet that came from the factory and replaced it with a high strength aircraft fastener. No problems since.
 

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I read the other thread and you may think about tearing into the clutch and verifying that all the parts are there. You shouldn't have this kind of trouble. It's possible the ball bearing is missing (#600), or the parts on the top #13119, 92045, 13102 are assembled wrong.

The ball bearings sits at the end of the shaft # 13116A, if that was missing I think the screw would go in pretty far as you mention.
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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I have been having some clutch troubles, on my 1983 KZ650 CSR I was having trouble adjusting the clutch so it would fully release I asked a couple questions about it here http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/f...how-does-clutch-work-second-how-do-i-fix.html and got the answer of "Change your clutch cable" I finaly got around to installing my new cable and that's not the problem.

The clutch just doesn't seem to want to release.
I had to replace the release assembly in my 750 way back a couple of years after I bought it. It went south and would not release fully.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I guess this means opening up the clutch... ><

Well I was hoping not to have to open up the clutch... but seems I'm going to have to. Once I get some free time (*sigh* I miss having free time) I'll pull it apart and... well inventory all the parts.

Part of the fun of having old vehicles is taking them apart to make them work again... of course the not fun part is taking them apart and finding the problem wasn't where you thought it was :p

But looking for the ball bearing makes a lot of sense. It seems like a part that could easily get lost in assembly.

The Clutch Release Mechanism (#13102) seemed to be fine, it didn't look like anything was excessively loose where the cable conected, I'll give it another look next time I'm in there..

The place where the ball bearings in the Clutch Ball Bearing assembly (#92045) seat into the clutch release mechanism is a little oblong, but I figure it's supposed to be like that to kind of ramp up the pressure a little more smoothly. It's not obviously oblong, but while staring at parts trying to figure out what was wrong, I noticed it. The only reason I think that's not my current problem is with screw adjustments I should be able to get it so the clutch is entirely disengaged, but maybe I have trouble engaging it I can't seem to make that happen.

Has anyone ever come across a situation where the Clutch Release Mechanism (#13102) has worn down far enough where it would touch the clutch push rod that it won't fully disengage the clutch? It doesn't seem much like a part that would wear down over time, and I would hope it would be designed to withstand constant and heavy pressure on it, but maybe the center collapses or wears down... any idea what messurements I would need to find out if this is true?
 

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The Cruising Gunsmith
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Has anyone ever come across a situation where the Clutch Release Mechanism (#13102) has worn down far enough where it would touch the clutch push rod that it won't fully disengage the clutch?
The one that came in mine did, but I think it's a bit different than yours. Mine has a steel tube with helical grooves on the outside that ball bearings ride in. That tube wore out and the grooves widened and it quit throwing the clutch out far enough.
 

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Hey Neep !!!

I think I got mine figured out... It was exactly as I suspected. The release mechanism was "Slipping or Jumping" to the next position within its housing.
The fix ( at least at this point ) was to tighten the clearence between the adjusting stud at the OUTSIDE of the case.
I was told in the thread that I started, NOT to "mess" with this. But it was the only thing that I could think if.
I've been a little hesitant to really run through the gears hard as it did slip quite a bit during the initial repairs, and I'm trying to re-build my confidence with this this...
$ 100.00 freakin' dollars to tow this thing less than a mile.... Ugh...
Best of luck !
Thomas
 

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I had to replace the release assembly in my 750 way back a couple of years after I bought it. It went south and would not release fully.
I have the same problem. I have attempted it eight times only to get the same results. I really want to get it working I'm going to try it one more time. After that I throw in the towel.
 

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By Nathanb: I have the same problem. I have attempted it eight times only to get the same results. I really want to get it working I'm going to try it one more time. After that I throw in the towel.

What motorcycle do you have and in what direction are you turning the clutch release adjusting screw? On some models you're supposed to turn it counterclockwise first until hard to turn, then clockwise 1/4 turn. It's kind of counter-intuitive.
 

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I have the 1982 GPZ550-H1
Clockwise then counter. I replaced cable,plates both friction and spacers and throw out springs. The clutch will not fully engage when lever is released. If anyone knows something else that will keep it from engaging please let me know.
 

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Ok, I just read the entire thread here quickly. It seems the OP's problem was that he could not get the clutch to "fully release" or to "fully disengage". So by that he means when the clutch lever is pulled in, the clutch remains partially engaged and thus the bike would try to move ahead if it were running and in gear. However, if the clutch lever is not touched it would fully engage. At least that is my understanding of the OP's problem

Nathanb your terminology is the clutch will not fully engage. So let's be clear on this. Do you mean that if the clutch lever is not touched, the clutch plates would slip under acceleration?
 

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Yes. I pull the clutch the wheel stops. I release the clutch it will go but slips. No Wheelies Nate.😔
 

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How badly does it slip? Low throttle, medium throttle or wide open? What kind of oil are you running? Is oil level correct?
Did you soak the friction plates overnight before installing?
 

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Yes.when the lever is pulled the wheel stops when I release the lever it goes but slips. When accelerating yes.
 

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Sorry didn't mean to repeat myself I didn't see it last time I looked so I thought I had to repost it it will not go on the freeway it slips about medium throttle little throttle and full throttle while I've never full throttled it because it won't go there. I hope that makes sense and yes I soaked the plates mobile one motorcycle oil racing 4T 10 weight 40
 
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