Jet Kits
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Why do you want to jet your bike? Have you done other modifications that require an advanced jet kit?
I wouldn't recommend going past a stage 1 kit unless the engine needs it honestly.
I wouldn't recommend going past a stage 1 kit unless the engine needs it honestly.
Yeah, to my understanding, the stage 2 jet kit wouldn't be that beneficial unless you knew exactly what you were doing and made perfect modifications on syncing the carbs, pressure, and something about how the fuel runs into each carb at a different rate.
No I wouldn't go past stage 1 anyways. I was lookin around at a bunch of sites and reading tto learn as much as possible about my bike. I happened to run across a chart listing the carb kits. It said stage 1 stage 2 stage3 and stage 7. But when I looked around at stores I couldn't find them, only stage 1.
Sounds good....my question now is with the float bowl mod that I have read so much about, is there even any need for a jet kit?? From what I have read I don't even think it is necessary. The factory jets are 180/190 as I read in the posts made by Kenneth Waters.IMO Factory Pro makes the best kits. No need for a Stage 2 unless your going to build the snot out of the motor. Want to play a bit more? - get an adjustable Ignition Advance rotor.
You're talking about the float bowl mod where you vent it back up into the airbox so it gets fresh air? - eliminating the factory valve (If not, post a link to share). I've done this - if you haven't do it.
Are you running a stock air filter? If you also read in Ken's article, he states the main jets from the factory are huge, due to Kawi's design. If you are using an aftermarket filter, you'll want to drop the mains down to the 150-160 range. Provides much better throttle response, and better overall deliverable power (at least in my results).
I'd check out Web ZXR.
Tech Tips - 93-03 Models section & read about the mods I'm referring to.
You got it thats exactly what i'm talking about. And thats the site I got it from also! Thanks...So from your experience dropping the main jets down to the 150-160 range really made that much of a difference? I do not have an aftermarket air filter. I read on another one of Ken's articles that certain years of K&N filters suffered more on the dyno than the stock ones. Granted he was talking about the 90 91 92 years models but still made me a little skepticle about spending $50-$60 on an air filter if there was a chance it would do nothing for me. Thats why I started a thread about air filters and most people suggested BCM over K&N. What do you think? I realize that more of the advantage of one of these filters is the ability to clean it instead of replace it so in the long run it would be more cost effective. What is the reason for getting smaller main jets though?? I guess I don't really know much about it so I don't know why a smaller one would work better. You know the bigger the better??You're talking about the float bowl mod where you vent it back up into the airbox so it gets fresh air? - eliminating the factory valve (If not, post a link to share). I've done this - if you haven't do it.
Are you running a stock air filter? If you also read in Ken's article, he states the main jets from the factory are huge, due to Kawi's design. If you are using an aftermarket filter, you'll want to drop the mains down to the 150-160 range. Provides much better throttle response, and better overall deliverable power (at least in my results).
I'd check out Web ZXR.
Tech Tips - 93-03 Models section & read about the mods I'm referring to.
I couldn't justify the $70 for the K&N for the bike, especially with all the discussion about them. I flip the extra $$ and use K&N oil filters on all my other vehicles where they make one, and have used the K&N separates in the past.
I use a UNI filter and have no issues or problems with it, for the past two years. I think they are around $25, and are resuable. The BMCs will run you in the $50 or so, and I might have considered those had I known about them at the time. Most probably suggest the BMC over the K&N because of the price, but from what I understand they are a good choice as well.
As far as the jets, re-read Ken's article again. He explains that Kawi, because of the valve controlling the flow of air into the float bowls, installed huge main jets in order get the gas flow needed through the bowls. The airflow into the airbox is not equal to the airflow into the float bowls. Kawi compensated that by using bigger mains.
Bigger mains does not mean bigger, better, or more power. Your main jets want to be a size that the motor continues to build power as complete as possibly through the entire RPM range (5-6k or so plus). Too big of mains and the power curve falls off. You may continue to go faster, but you aren't constantly building power. There is a point where you are just shoving gas through them for no benefit. The needle height comes into play here, but you need to get the right size mains first.
(See Factory Pro - Product Support - Motorcycle Tuning Tech - CV Carb Tuning)
I started with 200s to all four cylinders (I actually bought the bike this way). I use the UNI & Hindle full pipe. I felt it was pretty dialed in until I put it on the dyno and saw the power curve. I now running 165/170s, love the power band of the bike, and I can squeeze 50-55 MPG in the twisties all day. I liked the Factory Pro kit for various reasons, individual needles for inside/outside banks, reputation, customer support.
I use a UNI filter and have no issues or problems with it, for the past two years. I think they are around $25, and are resuable. The BMCs will run you in the $50 or so, and I might have considered those had I known about them at the time. Most probably suggest the BMC over the K&N because of the price, but from what I understand they are a good choice as well.
As far as the jets, re-read Ken's article again. He explains that Kawi, because of the valve controlling the flow of air into the float bowls, installed huge main jets in order get the gas flow needed through the bowls. The airflow into the airbox is not equal to the airflow into the float bowls. Kawi compensated that by using bigger mains.
Bigger mains does not mean bigger, better, or more power. Your main jets want to be a size that the motor continues to build power as complete as possibly through the entire RPM range (5-6k or so plus). Too big of mains and the power curve falls off. You may continue to go faster, but you aren't constantly building power. There is a point where you are just shoving gas through them for no benefit. The needle height comes into play here, but you need to get the right size mains first.
(See Factory Pro - Product Support - Motorcycle Tuning Tech - CV Carb Tuning)
I started with 200s to all four cylinders (I actually bought the bike this way). I use the UNI & Hindle full pipe. I felt it was pretty dialed in until I put it on the dyno and saw the power curve. I now running 165/170s, love the power band of the bike, and I can squeeze 50-55 MPG in the twisties all day. I liked the Factory Pro kit for various reasons, individual needles for inside/outside banks, reputation, customer support.
Thanks for all the help! That site is going to help out a lot. I think I am going to finally break down and buy the BMC air filter.....have a little more thinking to do though because it is $75!!!!! As for the mains what kind are best??
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