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Absolutely beautiful F7. That model is equipped with the Hatta fork, 3 axle positions, center or stock location, forward as it appears to be now, or turn the fork legs 180 degrees for a rearward location. This was clever but I found the alternate locations to be far to extreme. I have ridden the F7 with the axle located in all three positions, the forward and rearward locations produced a very strange handling motorcycle. If you have not already done so you may want to try the center position. Good luck and I hope you can preserve the motorcycle in that condition.
 

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Absolutely beautiful F7. That model is equipped with the Hatta fork, 3 axle positions, center or stock location, forward as it appears to be now, or turn the fork legs 180 degrees for a rearward location. This was clever but I found the alternate locations to be far to extreme. I have ridden the F7 with the axle located in all three positions, the forward and rearward locations produced a very strange handling motorcycle. If you have not already done so you may want to try the center position. Good luck and I hope you can preserve the motorcycle in that condition.
Hi and welcome brother biker, that absolutely beautiful F7 takes me back, this was a 175cc dual-purpose motorcycle manufactured by Kawasaki from 1971 through 1975 and looks in stunning condition; hope you keep that a supreme intellectual F7 in the rank of masterpiece........ You have a great evening my friend..
 

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These F series bike are a ton of fun! Over the last couple years I've rebuilt a 1971 F7 and a 1974 F7, so if you have any questions, a lot of info should "still" be in my head. I'm just getting ready to put together a 1974 F11 too, so I'll be back at it in spring.
 

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I picked up the exact same bike only in much worse shape.
I was able to get it running by replacing the crushed carb float.
I'm working on restoring it now, its in pieces but i'm getting ready to put it all back together

I'm no expert at this, its actually my first restore, whats some "basic engine maintenance" before i start driving around on this bike?
Carbs cleaned, going to test the pump out, by dissconnecting it and using 20:1 in the gas tank while making sure the pump is discharging .186 fl ouces per 3 minutes at 2000 rpm

I'm hesitant to crack open the crank case but i bet there are some bearings in there that might need some TLC.
I only had a chance to rev it up not ride it.

I cleaned and oiled the forks, got new tires and cleaned up the rust on the wheels new air filter and box...
what else do you all recommend...
 

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These F series bike are a ton of fun! Over the last couple years I've rebuilt a 1971 F7 and a 1974 F7, so if you have any questions, a lot of info should "still" be in my head. I'm just getting ready to put together a 1974 F11 too, so I'll be back at it in spring.
A quick question. I looked all over for the correct amount of oil to refill the forks (did a seal replacement). Do you have a service manual that mentions the correct amount. I'm seeing either 130cc or 175cc but would like a definitive answer.
 

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A quick question. I looked all over for the correct amount of oil to refill the forks (did a seal replacement). Do you have a service manual that mentions the correct amount. I'm seeing either 130cc or 175cc but would like a definitive answer.
These F7 forks are not the best, but standard oil is a 10W at 175cc (+/- 10cc) for oil quantity. You can experiment with heavier weight oil (or even ATF fluid) for different damping action.
 

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View attachment 44941
View attachment 44940



I picked up the exact same bike only in much worse shape.
I was able to get it running by replacing the crushed carb float.
I'm working on restoring it now, its in pieces but i'm getting ready to put it all back together

I'm no expert at this, its actually my first restore, whats some "basic engine maintenance" before i start driving around on this bike?
Carbs cleaned, going to test the pump out, by dissconnecting it and using 20:1 in the gas tank while making sure the pump is discharging .186 fl ouces per 3 minutes at 2000 rpm

I'm hesitant to crack open the crank case but i bet there are some bearings in there that might need some TLC.
I only had a chance to rev it up not ride it.

I cleaned and oiled the forks, got new tires and cleaned up the rust on the wheels new air filter and box...
what else do you all recommend...
You should definitely plug the vacuum pump located on the front of the case (see photos). As well, put a cap on the corresponding port on the carb too. This vacuum pump is notorious for air leaks, and is the case of many headaches! Just remove pump, fill hole with oil resistant gasket sealer, and then bolt pump back on, it is non-working now, but is just there to cover the plugged port.

After plugging that port, remove the stock petcock, and replace with this (add an inline fuel filter too):

That 22mm petcock is available in chrome or black with different facing outlets. I have 3 F series bikes, and I have this petcock on all of them.

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Thanks for the info! I ordered the petcock you suggested. The original petcock has 2 ports, an automatic/vacume port and a gravity fed port, both are connected to the carb, should i just connect the one line from the new petcock into the port with the banjo nut, (see the photo, the red arrow and the main gravity fed line and the blue arrow had the "automatic vaccume line" connected . Sould I just leave the line with the blue arrow dissconnected? what did you do about the 2 holes / fuel lines going into the carb on the top of the engine? just use one and plug the other / or leave the vent, vacume line?
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Yes, correct. Red arrow points to fuel line. So it should go like this:

Fuel petcock >> fuel filter >> carb inlet (red arrow)

For the other vacuum port (blue arrow)...put a vacuum cap on there. You can get those at any auto store.

It is also VERY IMPORTANT that you plug the vacuum pump hole that I explained about in my first post above.


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Whatever port was going to the vacuum line of the old petcock, cap that.
The petcock fuel outlet goes to carb fuel inlet
The other port is the carb vent port, just run a clean line from that port to vent to atmosphere. make sure the line is not obstructed in any way.

Do you have a service manual for the F7?
 

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Ok, Here is my best guess, I do have the service manual but its not to clear where each port is, I'm going to plug the
drain pump with ultra black as you suggested... Do the carb labels look right?
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Looks great!

The only other thing I can think of is to make sure your oil pump is functioning properly. Some people disconnect the pump and run pre-mix in the gas tank as an alternative...do NOT do this. That pump lubricates vital engine parts that pre-mix cannot touch...The oil pumps are VERY reliable, and I have yet to see one not function. The only problem I do run across with these bike are the curvy oil lines from the pump. Sometimes they are missing or broken, and they can get pricey when found on EBAY.
 

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I thought of one more thing...

While you are working on this, consider pulling the clutch plates and cleaning them up. My was slipping terribly until I cleaned up the steel plates with 220 grit emery and replaced the friction plates with new ones.

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So, I got it looking nice. Just have to get it running.... I got it to idle ok, quickly noticed the clutch isn't fully disengaging. I tried to adjust the cable but had no luck. I took a look at the clutch release and noticed the pusher rods seem to have no spring to them. I assume, if you pressed on the pusher rod it would have a bit of play since its pushing against springs?? I'm guessing i'm going to have to break it down and take a look at the clutch plates and springs to see whats going on.
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