[laurencenoon]

my 610 runs fine but not charging, this is a used machine had it for a few months now, checked fuses by battery glass in line, they are good, one think I also notice both the park brake and oil temp lights do not work.

the last owner has installed a full size battery under the seat to replace the original, he extended the original battery cables to reach the car battery.

plug is pushed in place on rectifier or regulator, its to left of original battery bolted to the steel frame, what is the item covered in rubber shield besides it, wires coming out the bottom?

where to start to figure it out? can the voltage from the magneto/generator be checked

 

[rv7charlie]

The service manual, in particular, the wiring diagram, is the place to start. Get a copy and link to the diagram here, and we'll try to help.

 

[WFO-KZ]

Good advice from rv7charlie. Also posting pictures really helps us to help you.

 

[laurencenoon]

I picked up a service manual, I have confirmed the two wires from the generator has AC voltage and increases with rpm increase, there is power from ignition to regulator on white wire, there is voltage on the brown wire at regulator with ignition turned on.

as for checking the regulator they want to measure the resistance on the connections, they should increase by a factor of 10 switching leads, stumped here my meter reads nothing on any direction, looks like regulator

 

[laurencenoon]

this is the method to test rectifier

Stator Coil Resistance; Regulator/Rectifier Inspection - Kawasaki MULE 610 4×4 Service Manual [Page 364]

Kawasaki MULE 610 4×4 Manual Online: stator coil resistance, Regulator/Rectifier Inspection. • Disconnect The Alternator Leads Connector. • Measure The Stator Coil Resistance. Connect An Ohmmeter Between The Alternator Leads. Stator Coil Resistance Standard: If The Meter Does Not Read...

www.manualslib.com

 

[WFO-KZ]

The manual is not perfectly clear but what you are doing is testing diodes that are inside the reg/rec. So you have to reverse the polarity of your meter leads with each check. So for example:

Put your red lead on W and your black lead on G/W1 and take a reading. Then switch your leads so your black lead is on W and your red lead is on G/W1.

Repeat the same process for the other 3 wire sets as in the table.
Make sure the reg/rec is unplugged from the bike when you do the checks.

If your meter has a diode check feature you can use that as explained here.

 

[laurencenoon]

WFO-KZ did the testing, getting 0.5 ohms one way nothing the other, foe the W to GW1 its open both ways, my gut says the regulator is the issue dealer is $170.00 contacted a couple no name brands waiting for a reply, good thing the stator puts out the AC voltage, figure thats the expensive part

this mule has the car battery mounted, would this have blown the regulator or did the last owner install so it would run longer between recharges?

anyone recommend I go back to the original battery

 

[laurencenoon]

using diode test get nothing any direction

 

[WFO-KZ]

Yup, you need a new regulator.

On the subject of a car battery, this has recently been discussed here and some would agree that installing a car battery or boosting with a car battery is a bad idea as it can fry the regulator. Since in your case, the previous owner installed a car battery, and then your regulator fried, I am convinced that you should never swap out an OEM bike or Mule battery for a car battery.

I would go back to the OEM battery. Kudos for our member Kawasakian who first mentioned this.

 

[laurencenoon]

thanks, Im convinced the previous owner knew the charging was not working, my guess the mule system can not charge a low automotive battery just too much load and will change it back to OEM

once charging is working ony thing leff is getting both oil temp and park brake lights functioning

have a great weekend everyone

 

[laurencenoon]

today picked up a new battery, regulator and installed regulator, removed the car battery and connected up the ground, started the motor and voltage measures 13.8 to 13.9, problem voltage does not drop when turned off, its late so will take a better luck tomorrow

 

[WFO-KZ]

It is not uncommon to have a battery read high initially. In fact, the battery should be allowed to sit for an hour or so before checking its voltage. The regulator charging voltage is north of 14 volts at higher RPM's, so it will take some time for the battery to settle down to its true voltage after you turn the engine off.

 

[laurencenoon]

makes sense, I feel all is good regulator is warm to the touch as I would expect, will run it a few days and check on the weekend

the park brake light was a bad switch to ground, cleaned it up and works fine, rear light works corroded terminals on socket, have 2 extra wires by the light, one has power possibly reverse?

 

[WFO-KZ]

All good progress.
I have no idea if Mules have backup lights. Anyone else know?

 

[laurencenoon]

just looked over the electrical diagram, indeed they do have the option for backup lights, the wires are there at the back brown and red/white, now to locate if it has the switch on the transmission

 

[laurencenoon]

quich update, looked over the manual and machine re reverse light option, the electrical is pre wired, at the rear light 2 wires one brown and one red/white go to the reverse light, under the box if you locate the neutral switch left side of gearbox, located down from shift lever, there is a bolt/plug screwed into the housing, remove this plug and install a reverse switch, likely the same switch used for the neutral.

snap the wire on and good to go, will order up a switch tomorrow.

this is a 2006 model 610, I will check the 2016 610 on the weekend