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hi guys, i just found this forum and had a few questions to ask, i have a 1996 mule 2500 that has had a problem with overheating, it appears to not be circulating since the radiator doesnt get very warm, not even warm enough to turn on the fan, i originaly suspected the fan temp switch and replaced it but it turns out thats not the problem, the radiator simply isnt getting hot enough to turn it on it seems like, i am suspecting the thermostat is stuck or only partialy opening, i am going to get a new one from my dealer today, but i was wondering is there any other things that could cause overheating, or improper circulation? i have only had the mule a few months and it has had overheating problems ever since i had it, i sure love it tho, alot nicer than tying everything onto the racks of my old honda quad, now i just throw the chainsaw and whatever i need into the bed and out into the woods i go. thanks guys, oh and one other question, where do they hook in the heater lines for the cab heaters on the mules, i have a heater but dont know where they connect the lines to. thanks
 

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If your fan is not coming on, chances are that someone did not get the air out of the cooling system. There is a switch in the radiator that controls the fan, if no coolant is in contact with the sensor then your fan wont come on and the engine gets hot. To solve this you have to run the Mule until it gets warm and then park it on a hill with the nose up in the air. Let it cool completly down then check your coolant level on level ground. 9 out of ten times that will solve the problem. Otherwise it is a stuck thermostat. Hoever if it is diesel Mule.....Hope this helps
 

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thanks joey, i sorta suspected that it was air somewheres, i didnt know about the trick with parking it on a hill tho, i see there is a cap on the radiator, should i take that off so the air can get out there too, i always just checked it from the cap under the seat, also near the carb there seems to be a little bolt that goes into the coolant passage in the manifold, is this supposed to be a place to bleed off air from the top of the engine? i suspected it may be but wasnt sure, i ordered a thermostat from my dealer but it wont be here till thursday, i wasnt sure if there is one from a small car that would work but figured it was easiest to just get one from the dealer, of course at 17 bucks i may try and find a car one that fits if it goes bad in the future
 

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just be sure to top off the coolant at both radiators and fill the reserve tank before you get going then when you park it on the hill you dont have to do anything but let her cool down, should fix the problem...
 

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joey your a genious, yesterday i filled up the radiator and let it circulate for a while with the cap under the seat loose so i could safely check the cap on the radiator (no pressure) and then i filled the radiator a couple times and drove it around, the fan came on a couple times like it should while i was going slow in the woods, before it never cycled on, or the few times it did was right at about the same time it started to overheat, now its working great, thanks so much for your help
 

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just be sure to top off the coolant at both radiators and fill the reserve tank before you get going then when you park it on the hill you dont have to do anything but let her cool down, should fix the problem...



WHERE ARE THE 2 RADIATORS LOCATED? WE HAVE A 2005 3010 4X4 AND WE HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM
 

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The 3010 Mule has the radiator under the front grill and a reserve tank (Overflow tank) on the driver's side over the fender and beside the cargo compartment. It is necessary to have a working reserve tank in order for the Mule to cool properly.

I had an air lock on my 3010 Mule that I bought used from some guys that are very good Little League coaches and directors, How-some-ever! they are not UTV guys. I noticed that the reserve radiator tank was broken up and had been for awhile. while I was waiting for the new reserve tank to be delivered from the factory (ordered it early January it came in today) I checked the radiator and it was over 6" low, I filled the radiator up and disconnected the overflow hose. Drove the Mule around for 15 minutes and the overheat light came on, also the coolant started coming out the overflow tube. Today I filled the reserve tank and started the engine, after 15 minutes the overheat light came on, the radiator was cold but the coolant lines on the engine were HOT. I opened the radiator cap and it was pressured up with air. I unscrewed the air bleeder on the passanger side coolant pipe and hot steam came out. I let the mule cool down and opened the bleeders, added a half gallon of coolant before coolant ran out of the bleeders on the engine. I filled the reserve tank. ran the engine for 30 minutes, it started to heat the radiator after a while. no overheat light came on. Everything looks good!

I didn't realize that the Mule was that easy to airlock. I found out that once the water pump runs out of fluid it can't do ANY COOLING. Be sure that the LIQUID cooled system is free of air or it won't cool. I am still learning!
 

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The radiator fan motor went bad on my 3010. I found a fan motor out of a 1993 Suzuki Aerio that fit for $10 from my local junkyard (Too stubburn and cheap to give Kawasaki $300 for the whole assembly). The fan works when I jump it but it didnt go on when I heated the engine up. Ill have to check the coolant level and for air in the system but my question is, if I disconnect the fan switch and connect the wires together to close the circuit will I get voltage to the fan motor. This way I can see if the switch is bad.
 

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I searched for overheating issues and maybe this is the case with mine, here is my story; I have 2007 3010 trans diesel it has 265 hours. Today i took 3 of my boys for a ride in the desert 10 miles to a local river. ON the way back I noticed the temp light came on and also noticed at that time the fan wasn't coming on, the radiator felt hot at this time. I stopped to check it out and found one of the radiator fuses blown. Swapped one of the other fuses to replace the radiator fuse and fan came on. After allowing it to cool for a few minutes I started it back up, temp light went out and all seemed good then all of a sudden the motor stopped. This time the radiator was cool and fan fuses were fine. I was now stranded in the desert with 3 kids 4 miles from the truck. Let it cool down again and started it back up, ran for about a mile and then the motor quit again, radiator again didn't feel real hot and fan was not coming on. Hoping I didn't blow a head gasket but I ended up getting a ride back to the truck by the Sheriff. My guess is either air in the system or stuck thermostat, any ideas where to start???
 

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I searched for overheating issues and maybe this is the case with mine, here is my story; I have 2007 3010 trans diesel it has 265 hours. Today i took 3 of my boys for a ride in the desert 10 miles to a local river. ON the way back I noticed the temp light came on and also noticed at that time the fan wasn't coming on, the radiator felt hot at this time. I stopped to check it out and found one of the radiator fuses blown. Swapped one of the other fuses to replace the radiator fuse and fan came on. After allowing it to cool for a few minutes I started it back up, temp light went out and all seemed good then all of a sudden the motor stopped. This time the radiator was cool and fan fuses were fine. I was now stranded in the desert with 3 kids 4 miles from the truck. Let it cool down again and started it back up, ran for about a mile and then the motor quit again, radiator again didn't feel real hot and fan was not coming on. Hoping I didn't blow a head gasket but I ended up getting a ride back to the truck by the Sheriff. My guess is either air in the system or stuck thermostat, any ideas where to start???
I would park it up hill and run it for a while till either the fan goes on or the light goes on and then check the coolant level. If the light goes on with no fan, then you know you need a new fan
 

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Had to lift my overflow bottle above my thermostat & radiator air kept getting trapped in my thermostat Had to move it to the back of my mule behind the seat 1 or 2 feet above the radiator this works had not had any problems after I did this
 

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Are there any bleeders on the 2510? I am pulling my hair out trying to the bleed the air out of my system.

Yes there is. Gas engine I assume.

On the top of the intake manifold, there is a 10mm bolt, usually black in color (or green). Take it out. Remove radiator cap and fill cap under the seat. Fill it through the filler cap under the seat until coolant comes out of the intake manifold. Reinstall the bleeder bolt. Continue filling until the radiator overflows. Reinstall the radiator cap. Fill the filler neck until it's full. Start engine. You will see a few small bubbles. Once the bubbles stop, shut off engine and replenish the coolant. Reinstall cap. Fill the reserve tank to over the full mark (I like to FILL it). Start and run the engine until the fan comes on. Shut it off. Let it COMPLETELY cool. Check the reserve tank. It might need refilling-if it's empty, there's still air in the system. If it doesn't drop any, drain a little out and run it.

If the bubbles don't stop, the head gaskets are leaking. It takes a while for them to subside even on a good sealed system-so dont' get in a hurry.

The 3010/4010 (gas) has a 10mm bleed screw in the metal pipe that comes from the thermostat. Same procedure, but fill it at the radiator (there is no fill cap under the seat) until coolant comes out of the bleeder bolt, reinstall the bolt, start engine, replenish coolant as it bleeds itself out. Raising the nose of the Mule about a foot helps trememdously.

If it's got a heater kit installed, you'd better have patience. And lots of it.
 

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2009 Kawaski Mule 4010 Trans 4x4- OVER HEATING

Have completed normal remedies including filling the radiator, the overflow tank, bringing it to temperature, parking it on a hill, opening the 10mm bleeder bolt and allowing to sit. I replaced the thermostat ( no help) so I removed it completely. it will run for a few days and then start to over heat again. I have also on level ground while cold opened the radiator cap however the radiator was full. I have bled the lines multiple times. The system is pressurized because when warm I opened the radiator cap and water came out.

I previously have taken it to a Kawasaki Dealer who was unable to diagnose the problem.

Any suggestions or ideas?

Many Thanks!
 

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Mule Overheating

It would be great if someone would write a simple step by step procedure to bleed air from the cooling system of a Mule. When you read thru all the forums which are great , there are processes all over the board, and many of them leave out information regarding leaving one or both caps off, in addition to having the bleeder screw loose or closed. I am sure if you are a professional this may appear to be easy. But most of us are not and that is why something simple that goes step by step in detail would be a great help. Thank you in advance for all the help as I use this site often.
Mark
 
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If your fan is not coming on, chances are that someone did not get the air out of the cooling system. There is a switch in the radiator that controls the fan, if no coolant is in contact with the sensor then your fan wont come on and the engine gets hot. To solve this you have to run the Mule until it gets warm and then park it on a hill with the nose up in the air. Let it cool completly down then check your coolant level on level ground. 9 out of ten times that will solve the problem. Otherwise it is a stuck thermostat. Hoever if it is diesel Mule.....Hope this helps
How steep of a hill?
 

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Park mule on slight incline so that top radiator hose is higher than bleeder nuts fill radiator compleatly. Open radiator cap and highest bleeder nut if no coolant comes out of bleeder air is in the system. If the engine is cold then warm engine so the thermostat opens at wich point coolant should come out of the bleeder. If the engine is already warm and no coolant comes out raise front of mule higher and/or check coolant level in radiator. Have u checked the head gasket if it is leaking?
 

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Bleeding the cooling system on a mule is different for each model. 2500 series are different than the 3000 which are slightly different than the 4000, and all of those ar different than the 2500 diesel, which is different than the 3000/4000 diesels. So you need a manual for your particular mule.

300 and 4000 series Diesels have a bleeder on the thermostat area. Park it with the front end at least a foot higher than the rear. Fill radiator until coolant comes out of the bleeder. Close bleeder and refill until full. Start engine and let it idle. The small bubbles should subside within a minute. If they don't, head gasket is leaking or worse yet the head is cracked-which I have seen a few of. It's obvious if it's cracked once the head is removed.

2500 series diesels had TWO radiators, bleeding is different, more involved, and best done by the service manual's direction.

Be aware that a very few of the 3000 series diesels (going off or memory) had the incorrect radiator installed at the factory. Contact your kawasaki dealer for details. Usually this would show up almost immediately after being purchased new, so very few are still out there, if any.

Couple things come to mind when I hear of an intermittent overheat. In the OP's case, the fan was either seized or stuck, possibly with debris (both situations usually result in failed fuse) which causes the fan to stop working. Once the fan was inoperative, the engine overheated-which allowed air into the system. Once air is in the system, overheating will not stop until it's bled back out. There's also the possibility that there could be engine damage as a result of overheating. What does air do? Air trapped in the system will usually make it's way to the water pump. The water pump does a good job of pumping coolant, but it won't pump air. Thus the radiator stays cold or cool and the engine overheats. That's why the system has to be bled. Over the years I've had to replace multiple cooling fans due to them failing, mostly on the 3000/4000 series Mules. Seen many with fan blades completely separated from the drive motor. Seen a few that had seized drive motors-resulting in blown fuse and sometimes hot/melted wiring. Seen more than a few with dirt dobber nests between the blades and the radiator; stops the little motor and usually blows the fuse. They have not been extremely reliable. The ones I saw the most of were the ones that had the fan wired straight to the ignition; as the fan ran constantly and would wear it faster than normal.
 

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2005 mule 3010 trans diesel 4x4 overheating

Need help. tried most everything to correct the overheating problem. the fan stopped working when i replaced the thermostat. i tried bleeding the coolant system, replaced the thermostat, running without a thermostat. i just ordered a waterpump. when the system overheats the coolant backs up and fills the overflow tank to the top, but when the engine
cools down it drains into the radiator like it is supposed to. is there anything else i can try while waiting on the water pump?
the fan works when i connect it directly to the battery. thanks
 
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