Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone hope somebody can help me out here.
recently bought a 2002 kmx 125 which has an elctrical fault,
the indicators don't work properley unless the headlight is on which in turn makes the headlight flash with the indicators, the horn makes a quiet noise unless the headlight is on when it sounds louder.
I've gone all round the bike checking connections and grounds and are pretty sure that all are good.
when a multimeter is placed on the battery terminals with the engine running and revving there is no sign of the battery charging.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks.

Matty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,328 Posts
Is the meter set on VDC(Volts, Direct Current) range of 20? If it's on VAC(Volts, Alternating Current) it may not read correctly. Do you have a shop manual with the wiring diagram?

Here's some websites that may have your bikes diagram:

Manuals
Repair Manuals Online - Workshop Manuals - Chilton Clymer Haynes Seloc Service Manuals
ManualsNMore.com Original Factory Service and Repair Manuals
http://www.midwestmanuals.com/
Books4Cars.com - Every Repair Manual, Service Manual, Owners Manual and Book for your Car, Truck and Motorcycle
RepairManualClub Download Area
http://moto-manuals.com/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the quick reply!
yes the meter is set to dc and i also have the service manual.
there is no sign of the battery getting a charge
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,328 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yes will check the output tomorrow the bike is at a friends house as he has a garage.
will post the results tomorrow, thanks for the help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,328 Posts
Dirt bikes get much more of a chance of corrosion on electrical connectors than street bikes, but the cleaning is about the same:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. caig.com - Home of DeoxIT is their website. It can be purchased at Radio Shack Stores and other electronic supply places.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting).
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
fixed the electrical problem,
we had the forks out greasing the head bearings and i spotted the one connector that hadn't been checked,
it was the ignition switch, sprayed some wd40 in and cleaned it up now the electrics work fine!
thanks for the replys!
only problem now is we took the bike for a test run,
it was working well with good acceleration but at about 60mph the engine cut out and now it won't start!
it has good compression and a good spark,
we have cleaned the carb that is fine and just baffled now as to what the problem is!

matty.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top