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Discussion Starter #1
I JUST BOUGHT THE 2004 KX500 INSTEAD OF A MOUNTAIN GOAT.
IT IS NOT GEARED AT FACTORY FOR THE GRANNY FACTOR.WHAT IS
THE BEST SOLUTION TO SLOW THIS THING DOWN ON THE TRAILS.
I WAS MISERABLE MY FIRST DAY OUT WITH THIS JET IN THE WOODS,
WHAT SHOULD I DO WITH THE SPROCKETS AND SOMEONE MENTIONED
WEIGHTING THE FLYWHEEL TO TURN IT INTO A TRACTOR.I DONT
WANT TO LOOSE THAT 2-STROKE POWERBAND.
 

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You could try some gearing changes. The easist & cheapest would be to run a smaller c/s sprocket..not sure what the OEM is but wouldn't go smaller than 12T. The other option would be a bigger rear sprocket or a combination of the two for more low end..of course at the cost of top end.
If you know the gearing you now have you can check out different gearing ratios at the following website..click on their gearing link.
http://www.sidewindersprockets.com/
 

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I too have an 04 500 and am dealing with the trail blues. Rode 30+miles in Zerbe, PA last weekend and never got out of 2nd except when we came across the coal shale hill climb area :twisted: . I still am using stock gearing. I rotated the throttle tube/assembly slightly more forward to reduce the ocassional right hand dropping down and sending me blasting towards trees. I also have put on a FMFgnarly TQ pipe/muffler and am learning all over again how to control it. The bike is designed for desert races and hillclimbs. I don't want to put a paddle tire on it and be limited to where I can go. Trails in 1st gear are just as fun as hills in 3rd. Forgot to mention, the fly wheel weight will give you more controlled power. But, it will take alot more than that to slow the 500 down. I was asked upon purchase if I wanted it(actually encouraged) and declined. I wrecked 1st time on tight trail. Made me laugh for half an hour.(after I could breathe again)

How was your jetting when you received your new bike. Mine was a little off?


:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
REPLY TO 2004 JETTING!

I am located in North Alabama and riding around 1500 feet above sea level.Believe it or not, the stock jetting for this bike is perfect in our
location.I used Amsoil right from the start to break this beast in.I
started out at 32:1 with good performance and to have a rich break-in
mixture.Bike ran good at this ratio but now I am running at 40:1 it
is running great also.I don't have the jetting issues I have been reading
about.Guess I MUST be lucky or keeping the bike on pipe more.
 

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if you want less kick off the line you do not want to put a smaller front sprocket or a larger rear. that will greatly increase your low end power and cut off your top speed. if you put a larger front sprocket and a smaller rear on it will give the bike a higher top speed but lessen the low end hit, basically just shift the power band not get rid of it. The flywheel weight does help alot. it will help keep your rear tire from just spinning when you hit the power but it will give you more traction. If you go with gearing remember that going up 1 tooth in the front is appx like going down 3 in the rear. so you can use that to dial in.
 

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Why The Hell Would U Want To Slow That Beast Down. Thats Why U Buy Them. Just Get On And Dont Look Back And Ride Faster And Faster Until U Fall Off, Then Keep Riding Again. If Not Trade It On A Klx 400 Because Not Even God Himself Could Slow That Machine Down!!!
 

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There are a couple of things you can do. First, the jetting is way off on the bike, especially down low. It kinda sputters or lumbers along until boom the power runs clean and you fly off the trail. It's kinda like having a light switch for a throttle. The pilot circuit is way rich....drop to a 55 pilot jet, then move the clip from the middle position to second from the top. The main should be fine if you ride between sea level to 2500ft. Next, retard the timing. It's easy to do. The instructions are in your owners manual. Then I would get a FMF Gnarly pipe and along with it run 4 copper crush rings in the exhaust flange. (or make your own spacer approx 8mm) This will really smooth out the power delivery and make the bike fun on the trails. The next thing you can do is install the optional thick head gasket. This will reduce compression and also smooth the power delivery. The Boyesen Rad Valve will also improve throttle response as well as smooth the power delivery and increase h.p. at the same time. The next thing you can do is send the cylinder off to a reputable engine tuner such as www.ericgorr.com and he can customize the power delivery for you. My KX500 is fully modified and puts out well over 70h.p. at the rear wheel yet is the best trail bike I've ever ridden. That's what can be done thru these mods and especially cylinder porting.
 

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Hi, im getting a kx 500 and i live in costa rica at the beach but there are mountains next to my house that i go threw all the time. There not very big but i was wondering wat i should have my carb set at?
 

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shift1313 said:
If you go with gearing remember that going up 1 tooth in the front is appx like going down 3 in the rear. so you can use that to dial in.
I heard that before, can you elaborate on that, like going up 1 on front, what happens to rear? Up 1 on front gives you more torque? I dont get it...

Ide like to be able to lift front end up more often than I do when going thru puddles on the trails. 2nd gear is no problem, 3rd is kinda ok, forget 4th, I cant get it up...lol that dont sound right...

Thanks,
Gunjji
 

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gunjji making the front smaller in teeth and the rear bigger will give u more torque but your topspeed will drop. Making the front bigger and the rear smaller means you will go a whole lot faster but u will have less acceleration
 

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i feel your pain i have 06 kx450 and only use it for trial rides but its a little high and got so much grunt down low i end up in trees and gorse etc :(
 

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Drop the counter to a 13 tooth, will help a lot, replace the pilot with a 50 or 52 and the main 165, 168, clip middle.

Fill your bars with silicone, hands will thank you, replace that rear shovel fender, a 92 93 KX 250 fender will fit with slight mods.
 
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