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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
so just so I understand you correctly the blue wire supplies power to the dimmer switch to power the headlight so if there's power in the blue wire the problem is in the switch correct? i did read in the fuse panel the circuit that one fuse feeds which is the headlight & is live there so I must move along to that blue wire in that connector & see if there's power there. getting down to the nitty gritty & should be able to figure this out soon. the funny thing is I never checked to see if the headlight sealed beam actually works, but if there's no power at the red wires it's silly to do so I guess....
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Did you ever open up the handlebar control switch?





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I found a n.o.s. switch for cheap & just ordered it. this might take care of 2 problems because the auto turn signal cancelling don't work & that solenoid underneath the switch could be bad. for all I know they might work now as I already replaced the module in front of the battery box which controls this feature but have not rode the bike as of yet. when the switch comes in I will remove the tank for cleaning & do this at the same time & eliminate all problems at this point.
 

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So you never opened the handlebar control? If the blue headlight wire to the dimmer switch has power & there's power at the headlight connector & pigtail in the headlight bucket, I would have checked the handlebar switch. I also would have load tested the battery. you never know sometimes.


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Discussion Starter #45
So you never opened the handlebar control? If the blue headlight wire to the dimmer switch has power & there's power at the headlight connector & pigtail in the headlight bucket, I would have checked the handlebar switch. I also would have load tested the battery. you never know sometimes.


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from what I can see I detect power in the blue wire at the connector going into the switch. I bet the problem is in fact in the switch. I talked to a motorcycle tech today & he told me on these bikes there's a connector under the gas tank that frequently comes apart because the wire is tight. he bet's this is my problem. when the n.o.s. switch comes in I will remove the gas tank for cleaning & solve this problem once & for all will post updates here so if anyone else has this problem they can follow these instructions as well.....
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
& then there was light! it works finally! I removed the fuel tank & looked for the connector the tech told me about. it did seem loose & when I started pulling apart all connections that one just fell apart. I think it was unplugged. it has that large rubber cover over it so i didn't see it unplugged at first but i think it already was. when I installed the new handlebar control I made sure the new wire had some slack in it. not much to give, but enough to keep it from coming apart again. I used some extra plastic wire tiebacks to keep it secured to the frame so it doesn't move. as far as the switch goes maybe it fixed the automatic turn signal cancel but the tank right now is soaking in evapo rust so I will get it back on the bike tomorrow & try that out to see if it works. if not i'm done with it, no big deal to manual cancel turn signals...


I bought an external fuel filter, but I don't think there's room for it as it's tight down there. the fuel tap has some fine screening on it so it will keep out any crud from getting in the engine. there was some crud that came out when I drained the tank. I will blast out the tank with water tomorrow & force dry it the best I can. will try to wedge in that filter, but as I said it's tight down there....
 
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